Page 96 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

94  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Oviedo Alfonso II’s tomb is found inside pilgrimage centre. On the
Many of Oviedo’s historic the cathedral, as is a gilded altar square stands the fortress-like
monuments were destroyed of 1525 – one of the largest in Palacio de la Rúa, built by
during the Civil War, but the city Spain – by Giralte of Brussels. Alonso González, the treasurer
centre still has several medieval to the Catholic Monarchs,
churches and squares, as well as Fernando and Isabel. This
19th-century tenements. Most of elegant and beautiful small
the buildings are located around 15th-century palace is thought
the Plaza de Alfonso II, making it to be the oldest secular building
easy to explore the city on foot. in Oviedo.
South of the Plaza Mayor is one
of the oldest parts of Oviedo, E Palacio de Camposagrado
with charming narrow streets Plaza Porlier. Closed to the public.
that converge on the Plaza del Commissioned by José
Fontán, home to a lively food Bernaldo de Quirós in the first
market and surrounded by half of the 18th century, the
striking old buildings above massive four-storey Palacio
colonnaded porticos, which have de Campo sagrado was
been restored and now house a designed by two renowned
range of restaurants and cafés. architects: Francisco de la
Riba Ladrón de Guevara and,
R Catedral de San Salvador The medieval Plaza de Alfonso II after 1746, his pupil Pedro
Tel 985 21 96 42. Open Mon–Sat “El Casto” Antonio Menéndez de Ambás.
(Mon–Fri in Jul); to attend mass only The Baroque palace sports a
Sun. Nov–Feb: 10am–1pm & 4–5pm; R Iglesia de San Tirso Rococo façade embellished
Mar–May & Oct: 10am–1pm & 4–6pm; Also on the Plaza Alfonso II, with masks, shields, cornices
Jun: 10am–1pm & 4–7pm (to 5pm Sat); “El Casto”, to the left of the and fanciful recesses.
Jul: 10am–7pm; Aug: 10am–7pm Mon– cathedral, stands the Iglesia
Fri, 10am–1pm & 4–5pm Sat; Sep: de San Tirso, commissioned E Palacio Toreno
10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm & by King Alfonso II at the end Plaza del Portlier 5. Open for
4–5pm Sat. & Cámara Santa, museum of the 8th century. This aisled occasional exhibitions.
& cloister. ∑ catedraldeoviedo.com
structure, on a basilican plan, The palace was designed in 1663
Oviedo’s 16th-century cathedral was restored several times. It for the Malleza Doriga family by
is the best example in Asturias has consequently lost its origi- the architect Gregorio de la Roza.
of the flamboyant Gothic style. nal appearance, except for the Featuring an asymmetrical
In the 9th century, Alfonso II triforium in the eastern wall, Baroque façade, the building
ordered the construction of the whose columns are adorned accommodates the head-
Cámara Santa, meant to house with plant motifs. Of note, too, quarters of RIDEA (Real Instituto
reliquaries recovered from is the Gothic chapel of St Anne, de los Estudios Asturianos), the
Toledo after the Moorish which was destroyed during a Royal Institute for Asturian
invasion; the Romanesque part fire and later rebuilt by Juan Studies, which was established
of this chapel is the result of Caeredo in the second half of in 1946 to encourage research
remodelling carried out in 1109. the 16th century. on Asturian culture. Within the
building, which often hosts
E Plaza Alfonso II, temporary exhibitions, is a
“El Casto” & Palacio patio with Tuscan columns.
de la Rúa
Closed to the public. E The University
The nucleus of the Oviedo’s international university
medieval city is this was founded in 1608 by the
stately square, also Inquisitor and Archbishop of
known as Plaza de Seville, Valdés-Salas; it was
la Catedral, though officially opened on 21
officially named in September 1608. The present
honour of the rectorate building was designed
founder of the capital by Bracamonte and Juan de
of Asturias, King Rivero. Especially impressive
Alfonso II. After is the library, designed by
defeating the Moors, Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón. In
Alfonso transferred the 19th century, Oviedo
the Asturian court University was one of ten
to Oviedo in 792 universities in Spain; today, it is
and turned the town the only public institution of
The flamboyant Gothic Catedral de San Salvador into an important higher education in Asturias.
For hotels and restaurants see pp204–5 and pp217–19

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