Page 97 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

OVIEDO  95

The First Kings of Asturias
By the time Asturias was annexed by the
kingdom of León in 910, 13 rulers had sat
on the Asturian throne. The first of these
was the legendary Pelayo (718–35). Another
outstanding ruler was Alfonso I (739–51),
who undertook several armed raids in the
Duero river basin. The new state grew
powerful during the reign of Alfonso II
(791–842), whose contemporary was
Charlemagne, with whom he maintained
close contact. Alfonso’s successor, Ramiro I
(842–50), was another colourful figure:
an avid art enthusiast, he began the
construction of several pre-Romanesque
churches in the vicinity of Oviedo that
still exist to this day.
The spacious interior of the Museo de
Bellas Artes A statue of Alfonso II, known as “El Casto”
(the Chaste) (791–842)
E Museo de Bellas Artes
Calle Santa Ana 1. Tel 985 21 30 61.
Open Jul–Aug: 10:30am–2pm & over the square is the tower of in the old Benedictine
4–8pm Tue–Sat, 10:30am–2:30pm Sun the Jesuit Iglesia de San Isidoro, monastery of San Vicente,
& hols; Sep–Jun: 10:30am–2pm & which adjoins a college that founded in 761. On display are
4:30– 8:30pm Tue–Fri, 11:30am–2pm was run by the Jesuits until Palaeo lithic tools, Roman finds –
& 5–8pm Sat, 11:30am–2:30pm Sun & 1767, when Carlos III banished including a mosaic from Vega
hols. 7 ∑ museobbaa.com
them from the city. The church, del Ciego – pre-Romanesque
In the city’s old quarter, just featuring a Neo-Classical façade treasures, such as an altar from
next to the cathedral, Oviedo’s and Baroque ornamentation the Iglesia de Santa María del
Museum of Fine Art occupies within, was consecrated in Naranco, and Romanesque
three buildings: the Palacio de 1681. The building has only and Gothic exhibits. The
Velarde (1767); the Baroque one tower; a second, identical permanent exhibitions are
Casa Oviedo-Portal (1660) tower was planned but was arranged thematically.
by the Cantabrian architect never completed.
Melchior de Velasco; and a E Monasterio de San Pelayo
building from the 1940s. E Museo Arqueológico Calle San Vicente 11. Monastery: Closed
The museum, opened in 1980, Provincial to public. Church: Open for mass only:
boasts the most exciting Calle San Vicente 5. Tel 985 20 89 77. 8:30am, 7:30pm Mon–Fri; 8am, 7pm Sat;
collections in the region. Open 9:30am–8pm Wed–Fri, 9:30am– 8:30am, 11am, 7pm Sun.
The permanent exhibition 2pm & 5–8pm Sat, 9:30am–3pm Sun. San Pelayo is a functioning
comprises Spanish painting ∑ museoarqueologicode Benedictine monastery with
dating from the 15th to the asturias.com a strict monastic rule, and is
21st centuries, Asturian art, Since 1952, the closed to visitors except for the
Italian and Flemish works from Archaeological and church, which opens to the
the 14th to the 18th centuries, Ethno graphical public for mass. Its construction
as well as Spanish and Asturian Museum has was begun in the 10th century
sculpture from the 15th to the been housed under the patronage of Teresa
21st centuries. In total, the Ansúrez, the widow of Sancho de
museum’s inventory numbers León, dubbed El Gordo (The Fat
15,000 items, including works One). Initially, the church was to
by Goya, Murillo, Zurbarán, be dedicated to St John the
Picasso, Dalí and Miró. Baptist, but this was changed in
987 when the reliquary of the
E Plaza Mayor and Iglesia martyr San Pelayo was brought to
San Isidoro Oviedo. Imprisoned by the Moors,
On this square, usually Pelayo refused to relinquish his
known as Plaza Constitución faith, for which he was brutally
(Constitution Square), stands tortured: his hands and his feet
the town hall, which dates from were cut off, and he was
the 16th–17th century. Almost beheaded in 925. Pelayo’s remains
completely destroyed during were recovered and taken to
the Civil War, the town hall was A sculpture depicting traders at the León, from where they were
rebuilt in 1939–40. Looming market in Oviedo transferred to Oviedo (see p41).

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