Page 310 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany
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308      SOUTHERN  GERM AN Y                                                                           BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG      309

       e Heilbronn                                    once renowned           the order of Frederick I Barbarossa   housed in a Neo-Baroque palace.   old centre will yield many
                                                      throughout Europe       in 1165–75, this was the main   Its collection is not limited to the   interesting sights, while a climb
       Road map C6. * 119,000. £
       n Kaiserstraße 17 (07131-56 22 70).            for the magnificent     and the biggest imperial palace   life and work of Schiller, but also   to the top of the hill affords a
       _ Pferdemarkt (Feb), Neckarfest (Jun).         goods produced by       (Kaiserpfalz) of the Holy Roman   includes many documents   splendid view of the town and
                                                      its goldsmiths. It      Empire. One of the surviving   relating to German literature.   the Neckar valley, as well as the
       Heilbronn’s earliest records date              has many great          towers offers a spectacular view     Other attractions in   amazing Innere Brücke, a
       from the 8th century, when                     historic buildings,     over the Neckar valley.   Marbach include some of   14th-century bridge. From
       the town was known as “Heli-                   mainly churches,          Set in a picturesque location,   the original half-timbered   there visitors can descend
       brunna”. By the late 19th                      such as the late-       Bad Wimpfen features many   houses and the remains   towards the market
       century, Heilbronn had become                  Romanesque church       half-timbered houses dating   of the town walls and   square, stopping on the
       Württemberg’s main industrial                  of St John, which       from the 16th–18th centuries.   gates in the old town.   way to visit Frauenkirche,
       centre, with a large port on the               dates from around         Bad Wimpfen im Tal is built   The late-Gothic   a Gothic hall-church
       river Neckar. Having suffered                  1220, but was           around the former collegiate   Alexanderkirche is also   dating from the 14th
       major des truction during World   Half-timbered houses on the bank of the river Kocher, in   subsequently   church of St Peter and St Paul.   worth a visit. Built in the   century. Its front
       War II, the town’s surviving   Schwäbisch Hall  remodelled. The        This is a triple-nave basilica with   second half of the 12th   tower, the work of
       buildings include the church of                church of St Cross is   transept, two eastern towers   century by Aberlin Jörg,   Ulrich and Matthäus
       St Kilian, a Gothic basilica from   r Schwäbisch Hall   famous not only for being the   and cloister, dating from the   it features interesting   von Ensingen, was
       the second half of the 13th cen-  Road map C6. * 35,000. £    first Gothic hall-church in   13th–15th centuries. The south   network vaulting   added later. In the
       tury, with a triple-nave hall-choir   n Am Markt 9 (0791-751 321).    southern Germany, but also   façade of the transept and the   covered with paintings.  market square is the
       flanked by two towers. The west-  _ Kuchen-und Brunnenfest der   the first major work of the   portal are richly decorated with   Stadtkirche St
       ern tower was built in 1508–29.   Haller Salzsieder (Whitsun).  famous family of architects –   carvings, which are probably   P Schiller-Geburtshaus  Dionysius, the oldest
       The magnificent altarpiece is an          the Parlers. This triple-nave   the work of Erwin von Steinbach,   Niklastorstraße 31.    church in town, built
       original late-Gothic polyptych,   Archaeological exca-  hall with a hall-choir,   one of the builders of Strasbourg   Tel (07144) 175 67.    Friedrich Schiller   in the 13th century
       the work of Hans Seyffer (1498).   vations in 1939 proved   featuring an ambulatory   Cathedral. The church interior   Open Apr–Sep 9am–5pm;   statue in Marbach  on the site of an
       Near the 15th–16th-century   the existence of a Celtic   and a ring of side   features many original carved   Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm.   earlier, 8th-century
       Rathaus (town hall) is a house   settlement on this site as   chapels, was built in   statues and stalls.  Closed 24, 25, 26, 31 Dec. &  building. Inside are magnificent
       reputed to have been the home   early as 500 BC. The town   several stages, between        E Schiller-Nationalmuseum  early-Gothic stained-glass
       of Käthchen, a char acter in   features a great number   1320 and 1521. Its                Schillerhöhe 8–10. Tel (07144) 84 80.   windows and late-15th-
       Heinrich von Kleist’s play    of historic buildings   western façade has a   u Marbach     Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.    century Gothic furnishings,
       Das Käthchen von Heilbronn.   from various periods,   high triangular top   Road map C6. *1,450. £    Closed 24, 25, 26, 31 Dec. &  including the choir partition,
       Near the rebuilt church of    including many half-  with blind windows.   n Marktstraße 23 (07144-10 22 97)    the sacrarium and the font. The
       St Peter and St Paul (originally   timbered 15th–16th-  Inside the church are   ∑ schillerstadt-marbach.de .   nearby church of St Paul, built
       the church of the Teutonic Order)   century houses,   many valuable historic               i Esslingen         in the mid-13th century for the
       stands the former Teutonic   Baroque town houses,   relics, such as the    This small town would probably   Road map C6. *92,000.    Dominicans, is the oldest
       convent – the Deutschhof.  and a Rococo town hall   Holy Sepulchre (1400),   never merit an entry in any   n Marktplatz 2 (0711-396 390).  surviving Dominican church in
         Heilbronn is also one of   and town palace   the stalls, which date   guidebook were it not for the          Germany. In neighbouring
       Germany’s largest wine-  (Keckenburg). The most   from around 1550,    fact that in 1759 the great writer   Set among vineyards on the   Rathausplatz stands the half-
       producing towns.    interesting building is    and the organ           Friedrich Schiller was born here.   banks of the river Neckar, the   timbered old town hall, Altes
                           the hall-church of St   Madonna with Child,   gallery (1688).    The modest, half-timbered   beautiful town of Esslingen is   Rathaus, with its beautiful
                           Michael, whose Gothic   in Marktplatz,   Other interesting   house in which the poet spent   famous for its sparkling wines.   Renaissance façade, and the
                           main body was built in   Schwäbisch Gmünd  structures in the   his childhood has survived, and   The town’s historic buildings   Baroque new town hall.
                           1427–56. The Romanesque    town include the        is now a small museum – the   were fortunate in surviving   Designed as a palace for
                           tower on the western façade,   town fortifications and several   Schiller-Geburtshaus. The town   intact the ravages of World War   Gottlieb von Palm by Gottlieb
                           however, dates from the    half-timbered houses.   also possesses a vast museum   II. A walk through the winding   David Kandlers, the Neues
                           12th century. The late-Gothic                      of literature (Schiller-  streets and narrow alleys of the   Rathaus was built between
                           hall-choir (1495–1527) is famous                   Nationalmuseum), which is               1748 and 1751.
                           for its decorative network vaults.   y Bad Wimpfen
                           Original furnishings include the   Road map C6. * 6,676. £
                           main altar, the stalls and the   n Hauptstraße 45 (07063-9 72 00).
                           Holy Sepulchre.     _ Talmarkt (Jun/Jul), Zunftmarkt
                                               (Aug), Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
                           t Schwäbisch        ∑ badwimpfen.de
                           Gmünd               The town of Bad Wimpfen was
                                               created out of two settlements,
                           Road map C6. * 63,400. £    Bad Wimpfen am Berg and Bad
                           n Marktplatz 37/1 (07171-60 34    Wimpfen im Tal, which remain
                           250). _ Internationales Schatten-  distinct to this day. The settle-
                           theater Festival (Jun), European   ment on top of the hill grew
                           Church Music (Jul).
                                               around the Hohenstauf family
                           This town – the birthplace    palace, whose chapel and well-
                           of the architect Peter Parler    preserved arcade windows,
       Isaak Habrecht’s astronomical clock on   and painters Hans Baldung   resting on pairs of decorated
       Heilbronn town hall  Grien and Jörg Ratgeb – was   columns, can still be seen. Built at   The picturesque houses and chapel of Esslingen’s 14th-century Innere Brücke
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


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