Page 478 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany
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476      NOR THERN  GERM AN Y                                                               MECKLENBURG–L OWER  POMER ANIA      477


                               Tsar Peter I, who died   the Passion were sculpted                                     chalice and relics from an earlier
                               tragically young. In    by an unknown artist.                                          Romanesque building, as well
                               the town you will      In the 16th and 17th                                            as a statue of the Virgin Mary.
                               find the Protestant   centuries, the Schloß was the                                    Beautiful tombs mark the
                               Stadtkirche, built in   residence of distant relations                                 resting places of the rulers of
                               1765–70 to look like an   of the dukes of Mecklenburg.                                 Mecklenburg, of the Danish
                               antique temple. In the   Resembling the castle in                                      Queen Margaret, and Albrecht,
                               presbytery is a giant   Wismar, it is decorated with                                   King of Sweden, who died in
                               mural, The Adoration    glazed reliefs and pilasters.                                  1412. Visitors can walk around
       One of 24 waterfalls in Ludwigslust Park  of the Shepherds.  It is not open to visitors.                       the outside of the church which
                                                                                                                      has a pleasant lawn. Beyond you
       2 Ludwigslust       + Schloß             4 Wismar                                                              can find a small octagonal
                           Tel (03874) 57 19 0. Open 15 Apr–14                                                        building, beautifully decorated
       Road map D2. * 12,600. £ north   Oct: 10am–6pm daily; 15 Oct–14 Apr:   Road map D2. * 55,000. £
       of centre, 15 min. walk. n Schloß­  10am– 5pm Tue–Sun. Closed 24 & 31   n Lübsche Straße 23a (03841­19 433).   with glazed brickwork – this
       straße 36 (03874­52 62 51).   Dec. &                                                                           lovely piece of 13th­century
       ∑ stadtludwigslust.de                    Wismar is undoubtedly one                                             architecture is the morgue.
                           R Stadtkirche        of the most attractive towns                                            A stroll around the health spa
       At the beginning of the 18th   Tel (03874) 21 968. Open varies,    in Mecklenburg. During the                  is also recommended. Right in
       century, the small village of   call ahead.  Middle Ages, it was an    Alter Schwede and Wasserspiele in the market square in Wismar  its centre it has two early
       Klenow was founded here;                 important Hanseatic centre, as                                        19th­century pavilions with
       from 1765 it grew into a town.           evidenced by the monumental   16 public buildings. The most   a huge rose window. The   Chinese features – an ideal
       The town was laid out around   3 Gadebusch   brick church, which is    beautiful house on the square is   proportions of the interior and   place for a coffee break.
       the Schloß, residence of the   Road map D2. * 6,600. £    completely out of proportion   the Alter Schwede (old Swede),   the height of the vaulted main
       dukes of Mecklenburg­Schwerin   n Mühlenstraße 19 (03886­21 21 10).   with the provincial town of   built about 1380, with a   nave measuring 37 m (121 ft) are   Environs
       until 1837. The “Versailles of   ∑ gadebusch.de  today. After the Thirty Years’    protruding Gothic brick gable.   captivating. Some of the interior   Another adventure is a trip on
       Mecklenburg” is quite different          War, in 1648, the Swedes were   To the west of the market there   fixtures and fittings came from   the “Molli”, a narrow­gauge
       from its French namesake. The   This small town,   established in the   are two churches, which act as   other churches in the city, which   railway that links Bad Doberan
       Baroque palace was built   next to the former   town, and rebuilt it   sad examples of the GDR’s   were either ruined or no longer   with Heiligen damm and
       entirely in brick, concealed   East–West border,   as the strongest    neglect of its historical legacy.   exist, including the so­ called   Kühlungsborn, where there is a
       beneath sandstone from the   has two interesting   fortress in Europe.    The reconstruction of the   Krämeraltar with a sculpture of   4­km (2­mile) long beach. On the
       Ruda hills. The ornate in   terior,   historic monu­  In 1803 they leased   Georgenkirche, badly damaged   the Beautiful Madonna and Child   way, a little gem of 13th­century
       particularly the elegant   ments. The          Wismar to                     in World War II, was   (around 1420). The room by the   country architecture, the church
       Goldener Saal (gold hall), was   Stadtkirche, which   Mecklenburg,           begun in 1989, and   tower has the most complete   in Stefenshagen, calls for a
       decorated in Ludwigsluster   dates from 1220,    but never claimed           it will soon be   cycle of frescoes in the region   visit. On its south portal, see
       Carton, a type of papier­mâché,   is the oldest    it back.                  returned to its   (around 1450).  the terracotta figures of the
       in order to cut costs.  brick church in         The town centre              former glory. The                 apostles. Across the presbytery
         In the mid­19th century,    Mecklenburg. Its    has a grand market         Marienkirche has                  runs a brickwork relief with
       the vast Schloßpark was   cross vaulting,     square measuring 100           only one surviving   5 Bad Doberan   mythological creatures.
       redesigned by Peter Joseph   chunky pillars and   Baptismal font in the   x 100 m (328 x 328 ft),   tower – the ruined   Road map D1. * 11,900. £
       Lenné as an English­style land­  goblet­shaped   Stadtkirche in Gadebusch with Wasserspiele   nave was blown up   n Severinstr 6 (038203­621 54).  R Doberaner Münster
       scaped garden. On a scenic walk   capitals are   (well­house), a Dutch­      in 1960. Nearby lies              Klosterstraße 2. Tel (038203) 627 16.
       round the garden, the visitor   Romanesque in   Renaissance pavilion         the Fürstenhof,   When Duke Henry Borwin was   Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily (from
       can discover some 24 waterfalls,   style. One of its most precious   from 1602, in the centre. Water   residence of the   hunting deer, a passing swan   11am Sun); Mar, Apr, Oct: 10am–5pm
       a canal, artificial ruins, a stone   pieces is the bronze baptismal   was piped here from a source    dukes of Wismar.   reportedly shouted “Dobr Dobr”   daily (from 11am Sun); Nov–Feb: 10am–
       bridge and the mausoleum of   font (1450). Angels hold the   4 km (2 miles) away, until 1897,   The north wing is   (a good location) as the deer fell.   4pm daily (from 11am Sun). 8 daily.
       Helena Pavlovna, daughter of   bowl, on which 22 scenes of    to supply 220 private and    the most interesting   Borwin duly founded the most
                                                                                   – its Mannerist style   important Cistercian monastery
                                                                                   was inspired by the   of the Baltic region here. The
                                                                                   Italian town of Ferrari   Münster was built in 1295–
                                                                                    and north European   1368, with a severe interior and
                                                                                     ceramic traditions   a small bell, in accordance with
                                                                           A pair of fauns from A pair of fauns from   (such as Lübeck   the order’s rules which stipulate
                                                                             the portal of the portal of   workshop). The   that no tower should be built.
                                                                           Fürstenhof in Wismar magnificent sand­  The interior is fascinating, its
                                                                           Fürstenhof in Wismar
                                                                                     stone portal is   walls surfaced in red, with white
                                                                              flanked by pairs of intertwined   plasterwork and colourful
                                                                              fauns. Nikolaikirche is a gem of   ribbing. Most of the original
                                                                              Wismar architecture. Spared in   fixtures and fittings have
                                                                              World War II, the façade of this   survived almost intact. Among
                                                                              late­Gothic basilica from the   the treasures are a vast, gilded
                                                                              14th and 15th centuries is   panelled painting, produced in
                                                                              decorated with glazed friezes of   Lübeck in 1310, a 12­m (39­ft)
                                                                              mythological creatures, saints   Holy Sacrament made from oak,   The monumental Cistercian Münster in
       The Baroque residence of the dukes of Mecklenburg-Schwerin in Ludwigslust  and, at the peak of the transept,   a small cupboard holding the   Bad Doberan
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see p503 and pp532–3


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