Page 105 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

THE RIVIER A AND THE ALPES M ARITIMES  103

Menton has several fine tropical Jean Cocteau (1889–1963)
gardens, and citrus fruits thrive
in a climate mild enough for the Born near Paris in 1889, Cocteau
lemon festival in February (see spent much of his very public
p39). The Palais de l’Europe of life around the Côte d’Azur. A
the belle époqueépoqueé (1909), once a man of powerful intellect and
casino, now a cultural centre, is great élan, he became a
beside the Jardin Biovès. The member of the Académie
Jardin Botanique Exotique Française in 1955. Among
has tropical plants and is in the other talents, Cocteau was a
dramatist (La Machine Infernale,
grounds of Villa Val Rahmeh. 1934); the writer of Les Enfants
Above the town is the Jardin Terribles (1929), and a surrealist
des Colombières designed by film director. Orphée (1950) was
artist and writer Ferdinand Bac partly shot against the barren
(1859–1952). This private garden landscape at Les Baux (see p146).
reputedly has France’s oldest He died before his museum Mosaic at the entrance of the Musée
carob tree and can be visited opened in 1967. Jean Cocteau in Menton
in the summer by appointment.
The jetties offer good views
of the old town, and steps lead century Italian, French and Flemish 17th-century fort into his
to Parvis St-Michel, a fine square art, and works by Utrillo and Dufy. museum. He designed the
paved with the Grimaldi coat of mosaic on the ground floor,
arms, where summer concerts P Salle des Mariages and donated his first tapestry
are held. To the left side are Mairie de Menton, Pl Ardoino. and other pieces.
the twin towers of the Baroque Tel 04 92 10 50 00. Open Mon–Fri.
Basilica St-Michel, its main Closed public hols. & Z Cimetière du Vieux-
altarpiece by Manchello (1565). Jean Cocteau decorated this Château
Behind the marina is Garavan room in 1957 with colourful Rue du Vieux-Château. Tel 04 93 57
where New Zealand writer images of a fisherman and his 95 99.
Katherine Mansfield lived, in the bride, and the less happy story Each terrace of this former castle
Villa Isola Bella, from 1920–22. of Orpheus and Eurydice, and site accommodates a separate
Provençal motifs such as using faith. Webb Ellis, inventor of rugby,
E Musée des Beaux-Arts a fish for a fisherman’s eye. is buried here, as is Rasputin’s
Palais Carnolès, 3 ave de la Madone. assassin, Prince Youssoupov.
Tel 04 93 35 49 71. Open Wed–Mon. E Musée Jean Cocteau –
Closed public hols. = Collection Severin E Musée de Préhistoire
The 17th-century palace, Wundermun Régionale
now Menton’s main art 2 quai de Monléon. Tel 04 89 81 Rue Loredan Larchey. Tel 04 93 35 84 64.
museum, was once the summer 52 50. Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan, Open Wed–Mon. Closed public hols.
residence of the princes of 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & The museum’s fine local history
Monaco. It has paintings by ∑ museecocteaumenton.fr and archaeological pieces
Graham Sutherland (1903–80), Cocteau supervised the include the skull of 30,000-
an honorary citizen, 13th- to 18th- conversion of this former year-old “Grimaldi Man”.

View over Menton from Ferdinand Bac’s Jardin des Colombières