Page 110 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

108  PROVENCE AREA B Y AREA

porticoes, particularly on the
Renaissance Hôtel de Pontevès,
add spice to some otherwise
drab streets.

2Haut Var
Road map D3. k Toulon-Hyères,
Nice. £ Les Arcs. @ Aups. n Pl
Martin Bidoure, Aups (04 94 84 00 69).
∑ aups-tourisme.com
The most remote and unspoiled
lands of the Var are situated
between Barjols and Comps-
A traditional flute-maker at work in Barjols sur-Artuby, up towards the
Gorges du Verdon (see pp188–9).
1Barjols Much of the land near here has View of Entrecasteaux château near
been taken over by the military. Cotignac, Haut Var
Road map D4. * 3,135. @ n Blvd
Grisolle (04 94 77 20 01). ( Sun. Aups, set among undulating
∑ la-provence-verte.net/ot_barjols hills on the plateau edge, is the South from Aups is Villecroze.
region’s centre. Epicureans may The town is set against a
Once renowned for its seething be drawn by the local honey, natural backdrop of caves on
tanneries, Barjols lies peacefully olive oil and the truffle market three levels, which local lords
among woods and fast-flowing each Thursday morning in in the 16th century turned
streams. In 1983, after almost winter. It is an attractive town into dwellings, known as the
400 years, the leather industry with a grand old square and Grottes Troglodytiques. The
finally folded. The many aban- castle ruins. The 15th-century arcaded streets and the keep
doned factories have become St-Pancrace church has a of the feudal castle give the
bustling artisans’ studios. Renaissance doorway. Also town a medieval flavour. A
Today, it is these local crafts- worth a visit is the Musée short drive from Villecroze leads
men who bring manufacturing Simon Segal, which is housed up to the hill village of Tourtour,
acclaim to the area. Two in a former Ursuline convent. a smaller, prettier and more
traditional Provençal instru- The museum contains works popular place. Renowned
ments, the three-holed flute by Segal and Paris painters, French expressionist painter
(galoubet) and the narrow as well as local scenes. Bernard Buffet lived his last days
drums (tambourins), were still About 5 km (3 miles) north- here. Two of his creations – large,
made in Barjols until recently. west on the D9 is the village of metal-built insect sculptures
These instruments resound Moissac-Bellevue. Many of its are still displayed in the village.
each January at the annual fête buildings date from the 16th The valley town of Salernes
of St-Marcel, the town’s patron and 17th centuries and its lies in the opposite direction,
saint. About every four years church was mentioned in 10 km (6 miles) west on the
the ceremony includes the a papal edict of 1225. D51. Smoke pumps from the
slaughter and roasting of an ox
in the square. This is followed by
a colourful “tripe dance” inside
and outside the 11th-century
church of Notre-Dame-de-
l’Assomption, where St-Marcel’s
relics can be seen. The ceremony
commemorates the survival of
the town after a siege in 1350.
For information about roastings
contact the tourist office.
Of the many stone fountains
dotted around the town, the
most famous is the mossy
Champignon in place Capitaine
Vincens. It stands under what is
reputed to be the largest plane
tree in Provence. Between the
church and the old tanneries
are the restored buildings of
the old quartier du Réal. Exotic Troglodyte dwellings in Villecroze
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12