Page 118 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

116  PROVENCE AREA B Y AREA

Boats in the colourful, palm-fringed harbour at Sanary-sur-Mer
rBandol its entirety. Dating from about yToulon
1300, the landmark medieval
Road map C4. * 7,745. £
@ n Allée Alfred Vivien tower in the town still contains Road map D4. * 167,168. k £
(04 94 29 41 35). ( daily. the cannon that saw off @ g n 12 place Louis Blanc
∑ bandoltourisme.fr an Anglo-Sardinian fleet (04 94 18 53 00). ( Tue–Sun.
in 1707. It is now part of ∑ toulontourisme.com
Tucked away in a bay, this a hotel. Sanary-sur-Mer has
cheerful resort has a tree- enticed visitors for many Tucked into a fine natural
lined promenade, casino years. Once the home of harbour, Toulon is home to
and yachting harbour. the British writer Aldous France’s Mediterranean fleet.
The shelter of encircling Huxley (1894–1963), it was In the old town, or along the
hills makes for excellent a haven between the wars quays of the Darse Vieille, the
grape-growing condi- for innumerable other matelots and the bars reinforce
tions. Indeed, Bandol has authors. Bertolt Brecht the maritime connection.
produced superb wines (1898–1956) and Thomas In Roman times, Toulon was
since 600 BC. There are Mann (1875–1955) fled renowned for its sea snails
also plenty of shops Rosé wine here from Nazi Germany. (murex) which, when boiled,
and restaurants to from Bandol To the east of Sanary, the produced an imperial-quality
interest visitors. coast becomes dramatic purple dye. During the reign of
and rocky. By the peninsula’s Louis XIV, Pierre Puget (1620–94)
extremity at the Cap Sicié is the was in charge of the port’s
tSanary-sur-Mer Notre-Dame-du-Mai chapel, decoration. Two of his best-
which was built in the 17th known works now support the
Road map C4. * 16,200.
£ Ollioules-Sanary. @ n Maison century A pilgrimage destina- town-hall balcony. These are
du Tourisme, 1 quai du Levant (04 94 tion full of votive offerings,
74 01 04). ( Wed. ∑ sanary- its stepped approach offers
tourisme.com a wonderful panorama over
the coast and surrounding hills.
In the agreeable, clear blue Outside town, the Parc
waters of Sanary-sur-Mer, the Animalier & Exotique Sanary-
diver Jacques Cousteau’s experi- Bandol has wildlife and
ments to develop the modern tropical plants.
aqualung took place. Diving
and fishing (mainly for tuna O Parc Animalier & Exotique
and swordfish) are still popular Sanary-Bandol
pursuits in this delightful resort, 131 ave Pont d’Aran, Sanary-sur-Mer.
where rows of pink and white Tel 04 94 29 40 38. Open Apr–Sep:
houses line the bay. Its name 9:30am–7pm daily; Oct & Mar: 9:30am–
derives loosely from St-Nazaire; 6pm daily; Nov–Feb: 9:30am–5:30pm
the lovely local 19th-century Wed, Sat & Sun. Closed public hols Ornate Baroque entrance to the Musée
church took the saint’s name in am. & 7 = ∑ zoaparc.com de la Marine
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp199–200 and pp211–12