Page 146 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

144  PROVENCE AREA B Y AREA

qSt-Rémy-de-
Provence
Road map B3. * 10,600. @ Avignon.
n Pl Jean-Jaurès (04 90 92 05 22).
( Wed & Sat. ∑ saintremy-de-
provence.com
St-Rémy is ideal for exploring
the Alpilles countryside which
supplies the plants for its tradi-
tional herboristeries, or herb shops.
In nearby Graveson, the Musée
des Arômes et du Parfum
The legendary Tarasque, the terror of Tarascon displays implements of their craft.
St-Rémy’s Eglise St-Martin
0Tarascon contains an exceptional organ,
which can be heard during the
Road map B3. * 13,600. £ @
n Ave de la République (04 90 91 summer festival “Organa”, or on
03 52). ( Tue & Fri. ∑ tarascon.fr Saturday recitals.
One of the town’s most
The gleaming white vision of attractive 15th–16th-century
the Château Royal de Provence mansions is now a museum.
is one of the landmarks of The Musée des Alpilles has a fine
the Rhône. Little is left of the ethnographic collection. The well-
glittering court of Good King known 16th-century physician
René who finished the building and astrologer, Nostradamus,
his father, Louis II of Anjou, be- was born in a house in the outer
gan early in the 15th century wall of the avenue Hoche, in
(see pp50–51). Following René’s the old quarter of St-Rémy.
death in 1480, Provence fell to The Musée Estrine Centre, in
France, and the castle became a The fairy-tale Château de Tarascon, the 18th-century Hôtel Estrine,
prison until 1926. A drawbridge stronghold of Good King René houses modern and contemp-
leads to the poultry yard and orary art. Temporary exhibits pay
garrison quarters. Beside it rises The traditional life of the area tribute to Van Gogh’s relationship
the impressive main castle, and its hand-printed fabrics is with St-Rémy. In May 1889, after
centred on a courtyard from seen in the Musée Souleïado. he had mutilated his ear, Van
where two spiral staircases The ancient textile industry was Gogh arrived at the Cloître et
lead to royal apartments and revived in 1938, under the name Cliniques de St-Paul de Mausole,
other rooms in its sturdy Souleïado, meaning “the sun which is situated between the
towers. Prisoners’ graffiti and passing through the clouds” in town and Glanum. The grounds
some painted ceiling panels Provençal. In the museum are and the 12th-century monastery
remain, but the only adornment 40,000 18th-century woodblocks, house a museum and culture
is a handful of borrowed many of them still used for the centre in which an entire wing
17th-century tapestries which company’s colourful prints. is dedicated to the painter’s stay.
depict the deeds of Roman The Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, You can visit a reconstruction
general Scipio (237–183 BC). housed in the Couvent des of Van Gogh’s room and the
The Collégiale Ste-Marthe, Cordeliers, covers the history of field that he painted 15 times.
nearby has a tomb in the crypt the Fête de la Tarasque, and also Just behind the clinic is Le Mas
to the monster-taming saint. holds temporary art exhibitions. de la Pyramide, a farmstead half-
According to legend, St Martha built into the rock, which was
(see p46) rescued the inhabi- + Château Royal de Provence once a Roman quarry. The
tants from the Tarasque, a Blvd du Roi René. Tel 04 90 91 01 93.
man-eating monster, half lion, Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 &
half armadillo, which gave the 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 =
town its name. The event is ∑ chateau.tarascon.fr
celebrated each June in the E Musée Souleïado
Fête de la Tarasque (see p37). 39 rue Charles Deméry. Tel 04 90 91
In the old town is the 16th- 08 80. Open Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan,
century Cloître des Cordeliers 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 Wed.
where exhibitions are held. On E Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
the arcaded Rue des Halles is Pl Frédéric Mistral. Tel 04 90 91 38 71.
the 17th-century town hall, with Open May & Oct–Jan: Mon–Fri; Jun– Herbs and spices on sale in St-Rémy
a carved façade and balcony. Sep: Tue–Fri & Sat pm. market, place de la République
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp200–1 and pp212–15