Page 192 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

190  PROVENCE AREA B Y AREA

tMoustiers-Ste-
Marie
Road map D3. * 700. @ n Pl de
l’Eglise (04 92 74 67 84). ( Fri am;
craft market (Jul/Aug).
∑ moustiers.eu
The setting of the town of
Moustiers is stunning, high on
the edge of a ravine, beneath
craggy rocks. Situated in the
town centre is the parish church,
with a three-storey Romanesque
belfry. Above it, a path meanders
up to the 12th-century chapel
of Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir.
The view across Lac de Ste- Notre-Dame-du-Roc chapel, perched high above the town of Castellane
Croix is magnificent.
A heavy iron chain, 227 m yCastellane sturdy fortress and repelled
(745 ft) in length, is suspended Road map D3. * 1,600. @ n Rue invasion several times. The lifting
above the ravine. Hanging from Nationale (04 92 83 61 14). ( Wed & Sat. of the siege by the Huguenots in
the centre is a five-pointed, ∑ castellane-verdontourisme.com 1586 is commemorated every
golden star. Although it was year with firecrackers at the Fête
renewed in 1957, it is said to date This is one of the main centres des Pétardiers (last Sun in Jan).
back to the 13th century, when for the Gorges du Verdon, The town’s fortifications were
the chevalier Blacas hoisted it surrounded by campsites and completely rebuilt in the 14th
up in thanks for his release from caravans. Tourists squeeze into century after most of the town,
captivity during the Seventh the town centre in summer and, dating from Roman times,
Crusade of St Louis (see p46). in the evenings, fill the cafés crumbled and slipped into
Moustiers is a popular tourist after a day’s hiking, climbing, the Verdon valley. Most social
town, the streets crowded canoeing and white-water activ- ity takes place in the
in summer. This is due to its rafting. It is a well-sited town, main square, place Marcel-
setting and its ceramics. The beneath an impressive 180-m Sauvaire, which is lined with
original Moustiers ware is (600-ft) slab of grey rock. On small hotels that have catered
housed in the Musée de la top of this, dominating the for generations of visitors.
Faïence. Modern reproductions skyline, is the chapel of Notre- All that remains of the
can be bought in the town. The Dame-du-Roc, built in 1703. ram-parts is the Tour Pentagonal
new Musée de la Préhistoire A strenuous, 30-minute walk and a small section of the old
in Quinson, 40 km (25 miles) from behind the parish church to wall, which lie just beyond the
south, is a must. the top is rewarded with superb 12th-century St-Victor church,
views. Castellane was once a on the way up to the chapel.
P Musée de la Faïence
Le Village, Rue du Seigneur de la Clue,
Moustiers-Ste-Marie. Tel 04 92 74 61 64. Moustiers Ware
Open Apr–Oct: Wed–Mon; Nov, Dec, The most important period of Moustiers faïence was from its inception
Feb & Mar: Sat–Sun. & 8 7 = in 1679 until the late 18th century, when a dozen factories were
producing this highly glazed ware. Decline followed and production
came to a standstill in 1874, until it was revived in 1925 by Marcel
Provence. He chose to follow traditional methods, and output continues.
The distinctive glaze of Moustiers faïence was first established in
the late 17th century by Antoine Clérissy, a local potter who was
given the secret of faïence by an Italian monk. The first pieces to
be fired had a luminous blue glaze and were
decorated with figurative scenes,
often copied from engravings of
hunting or mythological subjects.
In 1738, Spanish glazes were
introduced and brightly
coloured floral and fauna
designs were used.
A number of potters continue
the tradition, with varying degrees
of quality, and can be seen at work A tureen in Moustiers’ highly
in their ateliers. glazed faïence ware
The narrow streets of Moustiers
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p201 and pp216–17