Page 204 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

202  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

One of the joys of this sunny region is the still delicious, often featuring local game and
abundance of fresh, enticing food on offer. produce, and the much­loved truffle. Life in
The coast of Provence is famous for its sea­ the south revolves around mealtimes and
food restaurants – the best are in the coastal villages and towns come to a standstill
towns of Marseille and Nice, though generally during the midday meal and at dinner. Lunch
they do not come cheap. For traditional is served from noon until 2pm with dinner
Provençal fare, head inland to the villages of from 7:30pm until about 10pm, while cafés
the Var and northern Vaucluse. In the valleys and bars in towns tend to stay open later,
of Haute Provence, the cuisine is simpler, but especially in high season (see pp218–19)see pp218–19)see pp218–19 .
Types of Restaurant relatively high. Most restaurants
The restaurants on pages 208–17 offer fixed-price menus that are
have been selected for their excel- better value than à la carte. Lunch
lent food, decor and ambience. is always a good deal – you can
Within each area, entries are enjoy a large repast with wine
listed alphabetically within each for around €15–20. Inland, you
price category, from the least to can dine well for under €40
the most expensive. At the expen- a head, while on the coast, a
sive end are the gastronomic good restaurant will generally
palaces, where famous chefs charge more in the evening. In
showcase French haute cuisine. the deluxe dining rooms of the
These are usually honoured with Côte d’Azur, expect to spend at
one or more Michelin stars. In least €90 a head, although the
some restaurants, chefs creatively food will usually be outstanding.
combine fresh local ingredients. Restaurants are obliged by law Dining al fresco at Les Deux Garçons
Provençal restaurants specialize to post menu prices outside. brasserie in Aix (see p219)
in the region's traditional recipes. These generally include service,
At classic restaurants you’ll find but a tip is often expected for Reading the Menu
French favourites such as steak good service – up to five per Menus usually comprise three or
and moules-frites, or escargots, or escargots, or and cent of the bill. Tips are usually four courses, with cheese eaten
tournedos Rossini
tournedos Rossini at more upmarket at more upmarket
tournedos Rossini given in cash. The most widely before dessert, while some
places. Bistros and brasseries – accepted credit cards are Visa country restaurants serve six-
pub-restaurants serving beer and MasterCard. American course extravaganzas, which can
and alcoholic drinks are less Express and Diners Club are also take several hours to eat. These
formal, and often stay open accepted in some restaurants. days even fixed-price menus
throughout the day and night. tend to offer several choices of
entr
entréée (starter), main course and e (starter), main course and e (
You will also find many places entr
serving foreign cuisine, especially Making Reservations dessert. Gastronomic restaurants
Italian restaurants and pizzerias. No matter where you are dining, may serve numerous small,
it is always advisable to book, immaculate courses, on a choice
especially for dinner. Most of dégustation (tasting) menus.
How Much to Pay
up-market restaurants only have The entréentréentr e usually includes
Prices in Provence, notably along one sitting and are often packed, salads, pâté, Provençal soups
the fashionable Côte d’Azur, are particularly during high season. and often shellfish. Main dishes
are predominantly a choice
of lamb, chicken or fish – game
is widely available in season.
Coffee is always served after,
not with, dessert – you should
specify how you like your coffee.
Choice of Wine
Wine is so much a part of
everyday life in Provence that
you will find a good range at
even the smallest establishments
(see pp206–7). The price may be see pp206–7). The price may be see pp206–7
off-putting as all restaurants put
L'Olivier, Île de Porquerolles (see p211) a large mark-up on wine (up to