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to tech entrepreneurs and consumer behavior experts, many
                    will tell you that this is what the future of food is all about.
                    A one-size-fits-all approach to food and food-service experi-
                    ences doesn’t work anymore. Which, intuitively, makes sense.
                    Instead, we are shifting to “personalized nutrition,” enabling
                    each of us to discover our own optimal diet and avoid foods
                    that could harm us.
                       It used to be that most people could eat anything, and a
                    few  people could eat anything except a  few things. Now  it
                    seems almost everyone can’t or won’t eat some things. Though
                    the two categories of people—those who can’t and those who
                    won’t—are related, they often get conflated. In reality, they’re
                    critically different. See the next essay for an understanding of
                    the food allergy epidemic and how to be an empathetic eater
                    toward those who suffer from it.
                       Many who  choose not to eat certain foods, though, have
                    taken their elimination diets pretty far. That’s my own obser-
                    vation, but you can tell, too, because business is booming: The
                    overall “free-from” category has risen to $32 billion, which
                    is nearly the size of the entire organic industry, according to
                    Euromonitor. (The entire packaged foods market, for context,
                    is about $2 trillion.) Gluten-free specifically has gone from a
                    $1.7 billion retail market in 2011 to a projected $4.7 billion in
                    2020, also according to Euromonitor. Not to mention, restau-
                    rant menus have come to look like Egyptian ciphers:  GF for
                    “gluten-free,” V for “vegan,” DF for “dairy-free,” and so on.
                       What’s driving the rise of food tribes? As I support in this
                    book, some folks become part of food tribes such as vegan or
                    vegetarian not with the goal of personalizing their nutrition
                    but rather to express various social or environmental values
                    through their eating identities. The many stripes of elimination
                    dieters are to me a different lot, though, and for them, several
                    factors appear to be at play. One is our food culture having


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