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20     TAPAS AROUND THE WORLD









                                                                                   Below  Bars groaning with tapas dishes   Right (top to bottom)  Gambas (shrimp)
                                                                                   welcome workers at the end of the day   from the grill with, in the background,
                                                                                   all over Spain  Bottom left  Air-dried   marinated artichokes; tapas are always
                                                                                   jamón serrano, one of Spain’s finest   best shared, preferably with good red
                                                                                   delicacies, is often hung from the ceiling   wine; a modern tapas bar in London

            Tapas Around the World




            Tapas distill all of Spanish cuisine   bar. All the classics are available, as are dishes with a
            into perfect little snacks, making   modern twist, from shrimp in a spicy garlic sauce to
            the nibbling of small savories while   sushi-grade slices of fresh red tuna.
            drinking into a casual feast. The
                                               La Taberna del Gourmet expensive
            Spanish penchant for two-bite dining
                                               Calle San Fernando 10; www.latabernadelgourmet.com
            and its associated conviviality has
                                               The owners of this pioneer gastrobar are fanatical
            swept the world, bringing Iberian   about sourcing the best fish, vegetables, fruits, and
            dishes along for the ride.         meats and playing up the perfection of the produce.
                                               Excellent tapas choices include a fresh tomato salad
                                               with tuna belly or tempura-fried baby squid.
            ALICANTE
            El Cisne de Oro inexpensive
                                               GRANADA
            Calle César Elguezábal 23; www.elcisnedeoro.com
            This tile-encrusted traditional bar with hams hanging   Granada’s restaurants and bars offer Spain’s
            overhead captures the tastes of both land and sea –    most generous free tapas, making tapas-
            slices of mountain ham sit alongside plates of white   hopping an inexpensive way to dine. Dishes
            anchovies in olive oil. The kitchen’s own pungent aïoli   might escalate from potato salad to a small
            enlivens both the potato salad and small rolls stuffed   dish of stew as customers keep ordering drinks.
            with pork and mushrooms.
                                               Bar Casa Julio inexpensive
            Nou Manolín Restaurante & Bar      Calle Hermosa, just off Plaza Nueva (no telephone)
            moderate                           There’s no telling just how old Casa Julio might be,
            Calle Villegas 3; www.noumanolin.com   but the jam-packed bar looks little changed from
            One of the quintessential tapas spots, not just in   the days before the Spanish Civil War. Specialty
            Alicante but in all of Spain, Nou Manolín offers more   tapas here include several variations on octopus
            than 50 different tapas every day in the ground-level   and squid – always best with red wine.



                                                  On the Menu                as ground pork and is always strongly   In northern Spain, it is filled with pork
                                                                             flavored with Spanish paprika.  fat, rice, and onions, but in central and
                                                  Albóndigas  Meatballs that combine   Croquetas  These take many forms but   southern Spain the filler usually includes
                                                  bread crumbs with pork, veal, lamb,   most often feature minced cured ham or   bread crumbs and almonds.
                                                  or some combination of meats. They   poached tuna. In both cases, the filling is   Patatas bravas  Named for the Madrid
                                                  are served in either a brown sauce or a   blended with béchamel sauce, rolled in   bar that invented them, fried potatoes
                                                  tomato sauce.              fine crumbs, and deep-fried in olive oil.   served with a dip of paprika-laced aïoli (a
                                                  Almejas  Clams served in the shells, often  Gambas  Shrimp or prawns (species can   very garlicky, mayonnaise-like sauce).
                                                  steamed with wine, herbs, and vegetables.  vary by season): served a la plancha,   Pimientos rellenos  Stuffed peppers:
                                                  Anchoas  The small Spanish white   they are grilled whole with the heads on;   there are a number of varieties, the most
                                                  anchovies, usually lightly poached and   gambas al ajillo are peeled shrimp that   common being small triangular peppers
                                                  preserved in olive oil.    are fried in olive oil with copious    from the north (either green or red) filled
                                                  Berenjenas rebozadas  A dish with North  quantities of fresh garlic.  with salt cod and whipped potato.
                                                  African origins, consisting of eggplant that  Jamón serrano  The air-dried mountain   Queso manchego  The famous aged
                                                  is salted, breaded, and fried in olive oil.   hams seen hanging from the ceilings of   sheep’s milk cheese of La Mancha, usually
                                                  Boquerones  Anchovies, either canned in  tapas bars, so concentrated and intense   sliced very thin and served in triangles.
                                                  vinegar or fresh and deep-fried.   that servings are sliced paper-thin.  Tortilla española  Perhaps the most
                                                  Chorizo  A distinctive Spanish sausage   Morcilla  A blood sausage or black   universal dish in Spain, a masterful
                                                  with many regional variations. It usually   pudding. As a tapa, it is usually sliced, fried  combination of fried potatoes baked into a
                                                  contains pieces of cured ham as well   in olive oil, and served with toothpicks.   thick omelet, sliced and often eaten cold.
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