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KEBABS AROUND THE WORLD 53
Left (top to bottom) Carving a Below (top to bottom) India’s kakori
spit-roasted döner kebap in Istanbul; kebabs are spicy minced lamb or goat
Greek lamb koftas served with mint rolls, grilled on skewers; the classic
yogurt; restaurant-sized souvlaki shish kebabs take their name from
cooked outdoors in Greece the Turkish word for “skewer”
Khyber expensive of the capital’s best locations: an attractive and
145 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort, Mumbai; breezy garden filled with birdsong and shade where
www.khyberrestaurant.com you can watch your seekh kebabs spit, sizzle, and
Counted among Mumbai’s top tables, the Khyber emit tantalizing smells on the large outdoor grills.
specializes in the meat-dominated Punjabi cuisine,
including expertly flavored and cooked kebabs and
GREECE
köfte. With its reputation for fine dining, impeccable
service, and hip decor, the Khyber boasts a fervent Some claim that the kebab originated in Greece
following among local celebrities, diplomats, and the in ancient times, alleging that writers such as
business community. Homer, Aristophanes, and Aristotle made
reference to it in their works. The Greek gyros
PAKISTAN is akin to the Turkish döner kebap, although
In contrast to India, Pakistan’s cuisine is firmly pork is often used, and souvlaki is akin to
rooted in the carnivore camp, and kebabs shish kebabs. They are as universally popular
feature frequently on menus, including seekh as their Turkish counterparts.
or tikka kebabs (shish kebabs), shawarma
(doner kebab), and a few Pakistani variations To Etsi inexpensive
such as chapli kebabs – spicy, minced mutton Nikoforos Fokas 2, near the White Tower,
or beef patties shaped like a slipper (chapli) Thessaloniki; +30 2310 222 469
served with yogurt, rice, salad, and naan bread. Simple, basic, and garishly decorated, the To Etsi in
Thessaloniki has won a cult following locally for its
Gowal Mandi inexpensive succulent souvlaki stuffed into freshly baked pita
Off Railway Road, Lahore bread, served with crunchy salad and generous
The network of lanes just south of Railway Road in dollops of homemade hot, spicy, or garlicky sauces.
Lahore is known locally as “Food Street” for its rows
of stands selling simple, fresh, and skillfully cooked Varoulko expensive
Pakistani fare. At sunset, the roads close and all the Pireos 80, Gazi, Athens; www.varoulko.gr
locals congregate. It’s a great place to try Pakistani As famous for its startling views of the Acropolis
dishes at rock-bottom prices in a great atmosphere. as for the startling modern-Greek creations of the
country’s only Michelin-star-rated chef, Lefteris
Village Garden Restaurant moderate Lazarou, the Varoulko is a must for the foodie.
Palace Cinema Bldg., Karachi; +92 21 521 2880 Seafood is the specialty, but the meat dishes
Karachi’s oldest surviving restaurant also boasts one don’t disappoint. Book a rooftop table.
On the Menu in Turkey Döner kebap Compressed meat (chicken crushed garlic, black pepper, grated onion,
or lamb) grilled on an upright and rotating and yogurt, grilled on a skewer over coals.
There are dozens of varieties of kebab in skewer and sliced onto pita bread. Testı kebap Lamb or chicken with
Turkey. Many are local adaptations named Erciyes kebap Lamb served on a bed vegetables (often onion and mushroom),
after the place of origin or their founder. of thinly sliced sautéed potatoes with slow-cooked in a sealed terra-cotta pot
garlic and yogurt. that is broken open at the dining table.
Adana kebap Minced lamb spiced with Fıstıklı kebap Suckling lamb minced Tokat kebap Cubed lamb grilled on a
chili peppers, garlic, parsley, paprika, and mixed with herbs and pistachios. skewer along with potato, eggplant,
pepper, and sumac, molded into a sausage İskender (Bursa) kebap Lamb döner tomato, and garlic.
and grilled over coals on a special long, flat layered on a bed of pita bread, topped Urfa kebap Minced lamb, mildly spiced
skewer. The meat is served on top of with tomato sauce and tangy yogurt, then with chili pepper, garlic, paprika, pepper,
warm strips of pita bread with a salad of drizzled with lightly browned butter. and sumac, shaped like a sausage and
tomatoes, peppers, and sliced onions Patlıcan kebap Minced or cubed lamb grilled over coals; served with onion salad.
tossed in sumac. grilled on skewers with eggplant. Yoğurtlu şiş kebap Grilled skewers of
Buğu kebap Meat is steamed in a sealed Şiş kebap Cubed lamb or chicken cubed lamb marinated in oil, garlic, and
terra-cotta pot along with pearl onions, marinated in oil, garlic, onion, and black onion, along with grilled, skewered ground
garlic, thyme, sumac, and cumin. pepper grilled on a skewer with onions lamb köfte, served on a bed of butter-fried
Çiğ kebap Raw, ground lamb pounded and peppers. pita bread, sprinkled with sumac, salt, and
with bulgur wheat and onions, spiced with Tavuk şiş kebap Chicken cubes thyme, and topped with fresh tomato
cinnamon, cloves, paprika, and pepper. marinated in olive oil, thyme, or rosemary, sauce, yogurt, and fried strips of eggplant.

