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KEBABS AROUND THE WORLD           53







            Left (top to bottom)  Carving a   Below (top to bottom)  India’s kakori
            spit-roasted döner kebap in Istanbul;   kebabs are spicy minced lamb or goat
            Greek lamb koftas served with mint   rolls, grilled on skewers; the classic
            yogurt; restaurant-sized souvlaki   shish kebabs take their name from
            cooked outdoors in Greece   the Turkish word for “skewer”

                                                                 Khyber expensive                   of the capital’s best locations: an attractive and
                                                                 145 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort, Mumbai;    breezy garden filled with birdsong and shade where
                                                                 www.khyberrestaurant.com           you can watch your seekh kebabs spit, sizzle, and
                                                                 Counted among Mumbai’s top tables, the Khyber   emit tantalizing smells on the large outdoor grills.
                                                                 specializes in the meat-dominated Punjabi cuisine,
                                                                 including expertly flavored and cooked kebabs and
                                                                                                    GREECE
                                                                 köfte. With its reputation for fine dining, impeccable
                                                                 service, and hip decor, the Khyber boasts a fervent   Some claim that the kebab originated in Greece
                                                                 following among local celebrities, diplomats, and the   in ancient times, alleging that writers such as
                                                                 business community.                Homer, Aristophanes, and Aristotle made
                                                                                                    reference to it in their works. The Greek gyros
                                                                 PAKISTAN                           is akin to the Turkish döner kebap, although
                                                                 In contrast to India, Pakistan’s cuisine is firmly   pork is often used, and souvlaki is akin to
                                                                 rooted in the carnivore camp, and kebabs   shish kebabs. They are as universally popular
                                                                 feature frequently on menus, including seekh   as their Turkish counterparts.
                                                                 or tikka kebabs (shish kebabs), shawarma
                                                                 (doner kebab), and a few Pakistani variations   To Etsi inexpensive
                                                                 such as chapli kebabs – spicy, minced mutton   Nikoforos Fokas 2, near the White Tower,
                                                                 or beef patties shaped like a slipper (chapli)   Thessaloniki; +30 2310 222 469
                                                                 served with yogurt, rice, salad, and naan bread.   Simple, basic, and garishly decorated, the To Etsi in
                                                                                                    Thessaloniki has won a cult following locally for its
                                                                 Gowal Mandi inexpensive            succulent souvlaki stuffed into freshly baked pita
                                                                 Off Railway Road, Lahore            bread, served with crunchy salad and generous
                                                                 The network of lanes just south of Railway Road in   dollops of homemade hot, spicy, or garlicky sauces.
                                                                 Lahore is known locally as “Food Street” for its rows
                                                                 of stands selling simple, fresh, and skillfully cooked   Varoulko expensive
                                                                 Pakistani fare. At sunset, the roads close and all the   Pireos 80, Gazi, Athens; www.varoulko.gr
                                                                 locals congregate. It’s a great place to try Pakistani   As famous for its startling views of the Acropolis
                                                                 dishes at rock-bottom prices in a great atmosphere.  as for the startling modern-Greek creations of the
                                                                                                    country’s only Michelin-star-rated chef, Lefteris
                                                                 Village Garden Restaurant moderate  Lazarou, the Varoulko is a must for the foodie.
                                                                 Palace Cinema Bldg., Karachi; +92 21 521 2880   Seafood is the specialty, but the meat dishes
                                                                 Karachi’s oldest surviving restaurant also boasts one   don’t disappoint. Book a rooftop table.


                                                  On the Menu in Turkey      Döner kebap  Compressed meat (chicken  crushed garlic, black pepper, grated onion,
                                                                             or lamb) grilled on an upright and rotating  and yogurt, grilled on a skewer over coals.
                                                  There are dozens of varieties of kebab in   skewer and sliced onto pita bread.  Testı kebap  Lamb or chicken with
                                                  Turkey. Many are local adaptations named  Erciyes kebap  Lamb served on a bed   vegetables (often onion and mushroom),
                                                  after the place of origin or their founder.  of thinly sliced sautéed potatoes with   slow-cooked in a sealed terra-cotta pot
                                                                             garlic and yogurt.         that is broken open at the dining table.
                                                  Adana kebap  Minced lamb spiced with   Fıstıklı kebap  Suckling lamb minced   Tokat kebap  Cubed lamb grilled on a
                                                  chili peppers, garlic, parsley, paprika,   and mixed with herbs and pistachios.  skewer along with potato, eggplant,
                                                  pepper, and sumac, molded into a sausage  İskender (Bursa) kebap  Lamb döner   tomato, and garlic.
                                                  and grilled over coals on a special long, flat  layered on a bed of pita bread, topped   Urfa kebap  Minced lamb, mildly spiced
                                                  skewer. The meat is served on top of   with tomato sauce and tangy yogurt, then  with chili pepper, garlic, paprika, pepper,
                                                  warm strips of pita bread with a salad of   drizzled with lightly browned butter.   and sumac, shaped like a sausage and
                                                  tomatoes, peppers, and sliced onions   Patlıcan kebap  Minced or cubed lamb   grilled over coals; served with onion salad.
                                                  tossed in sumac.           grilled on skewers with eggplant.  Yoğurtlu şiş kebap  Grilled skewers of
                                                  Buğu kebap  Meat is steamed in a sealed  Şiş kebap  Cubed lamb or chicken   cubed lamb marinated in oil, garlic, and
                                                  terra-cotta pot along with pearl onions,   marinated in oil, garlic, onion, and black   onion, along with grilled, skewered ground
                                                  garlic, thyme, sumac, and cumin.  pepper grilled on a skewer with onions   lamb köfte, served on a bed of butter-fried
                                                  Çiğ kebap  Raw, ground lamb pounded   and peppers.    pita bread, sprinkled with sumac, salt, and
                                                  with bulgur wheat and onions, spiced with  Tavuk şiş kebap  Chicken cubes   thyme, and topped with fresh tomato
                                                  cinnamon, cloves, paprika, and pepper.  marinated in olive oil, thyme, or rosemary,  sauce, yogurt, and fried strips of eggplant.
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