Page 738 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - USA
P. 738

736      ALASK A  &   HA W AI ‘ I

       Moloka‘i & Maui                         Kalaupapa National Historical
                                               Park. In 1865, when the
       The small island of Moloka‘i, between O‘ahu and Maui, is much  imported disease of leprosy
       less developed for tourism than its neighbors. The gentle pace   seemed to threaten the survival
       of life, and the spectacular scenery of its flower-decked south   of the Hawaiian people, the
       coast and of the Kalaupapa National Historical Park, backed   peninsula was designated a
                                               leper colony, and those afflicted
       by the world’s highest sea cliffs, enchant most visitors. Maui,   were exiled here. The park now
       Hawai‘i’s second-largest island, offers lively resorts with a   serves as a memorial. The main
       range of water sports, as well as lush plantations and the   settlement was at the village of
       awesome grandeur of the Haleakalā Volcano.  Kalaupapa, on the western side
                                               of the peninsula. The last
                                               patients arrived in 1969, when
                                               the policy of enforced isolation
                                               ended. Kalaupapa’s small
                                               population today includes a
                                               few aging patients who chose
                                               to live out their lives here.
                                                 South of the village is the
                                               Kalaupapa Trail, a favorite with
                                               hikers and mule riders who
                                               enjoy stupendous views during
                                               the 2-mile (3-km) trip. At the
                                               center of the peninsula is the
                                               Kauhakō Crater, with an 800-ft
                                               (245-m) deep lake.
                                                 On the peninsula’s eastern
                                               shore is St. Philomena Church,
       Moloka‘i’s isolated Kalaupapa Peninsula, backed by towering cliffs  in the original leprosy settle-
                                               ment of Kalawao. Shipped out
       5 Kaunakakai        Hawai‘i. The 27-mile (44-km)   from Honolulu in 1872, the
                           highway takes in ancient sites,   church was later modified by
       * 2,700. n Ala Malama St &   picturesque churches, pristine   the Belgian priest Father
       Kamehameha V Hwy (Hwy 450), (800)   beaches, and sleepy villages   Damien (1840–89), who
       464-2924. _ Ka Moloka‘i Makahiki   tucked away amid tropical   dedicated his life to caring for
       (cultural festival, late Jan).
       ∑ gohawaii.com      flowers and luxuriant rainforests.   the leprosy patients. Father
                           The road finally twists to a halt   Damien succumbed to leprosy
       Moloka‘i’s main town,   at the stunningly beautiful   in 1889 and has been beatified
       Kaunakakai, was built in the   Hālawa Valley which, with its   by the Pope. His right hand is
       19th century as a port for    soaring walls, lush vegetation,   interred in the church. From the
       the local sugar and pineapple   idyllic beaches, and shimmering   peninsula’s eastern side, small
       plantations. Today, commercial   waterfalls, is Moloka‘i’s most   islands poke out of the waters
       agriculture has all but   scenic spot.  of the ocean, next to staggering
       disappeared from the island,            2000-ft (600-m) cliffs – the
       and Kaunakakai looks its age.           tallest sea cliffs in the world.
       The main street, with its   6 Kalaupapa
       wooden boardwalk, is lined   National Historical
       with false-fronted stores. A    Park
       short distance from the town
       cen ter, local fishermen throng   Reached by foot or mule on
       Kaunakakai Harbor, its long   Kalaupapa Trail: trailhead on Hwy 470,
       stone jetty jutting out into the   3 miles (5 km) N of Kualapu‘u,
       ocean. About 2 miles (3 km)   between the mule stables &
       west of town is the Kapuāiwa   Kalaupapa Overlook. ~ & 8
       Coconut Grove, whose    compulsory. Father Damien Tours,
       1,000 soaring trees are a   (808) 567-6171. Book well in advance.
       majestic sight, silhouetted   Visitors must be 16 years of age or
       against the setting sun.  older. For Moloka’i Mule Ride, (808)
                           567-6088, book in advance.
                           ∑ muleride.com
       Environs
       East of Kaunakakai begins the   The isolated Kalaupapa
       Kamehameha V Highway,   Peninsula, sealed off from the
       which is among the most   rest of Moloka‘i by a mighty    St. Philomena Church, where Father
       beautiful coastal drives in   wall of cliffs, is home to the   Damien’s hand is buried
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp744–5 and pp746–7



   736-737_EW_USA.indd   736                                  11/2/16   2:50 PM
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.6)
     Date 12th July 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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