Page 110 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

108 BACK ROADS GERMANY

7 Ilmenau Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Thuringia; 98693 The Frankfurt-born son of a wealthy
“I was always happy to spend time family, Goethe (1748–1832) found
here,” wrote JW Goethe, 18th-century fame at the age of 26 as the author
playwright and philosopher, about of The Sorrows of Young Werther. This
this university town. Ilmenau tale of obsessive love not only
returned the com pli ment by dedicat- became the bestseller of the early
Romantic move ment, but also led to
ing the Goethe Stadtmuseum (closed Goethe’s appointment as ducal
Mon) to the father of the German adviser in Weimar in 1775. Yet, to
Enlightenment. The museum is label Goethe as just a writer is inade-
located in the Baroque Amtshaus on quate. Between court duties, he
the Markt, where a bronze of Goethe con ducted scientific exper iments,
rests on a bench. studied geology, designed palaces
ª Take the Bücheloher Strasse, and gardens, col lected antiquities
following signs to Martinroda, Neusiss and penned his masterpiece, Faust.
Author Thomas Mann dubbed him
and Dosdorf to Arnstadt. Go straight “the greatest German of all”.
over the round about into Plauesche
Strasse towards the tower and
park on Ried. 9 Drei Gleichen
Thuringia; 99869
8 Arnstadt Three castles, collectively known
Thuringia; 99310 as Drei Gleichen, crown the hills
A medieval watchtower at Arnstadt’s en route to Gotha. The 17th-
entrance hints at the charm of this old century Wachsenburg is the best
Above Houses and shops around town at the forest’s edge. Full of half- preserved after its restoration as
Krämerbrϋcke, Erfurt Below Schloss tim bered houses and tangled lanes, it a hotel and restaurant; it is worth
Wachsenburg above Holzhausen is a great place to explore. The Markt a visit for the view from its perch
has a Renaissance town hall and the above Holzhausen village. Continue
Bachkirche. Arnstadt was the home of for 5 km (3 miles) on the road to
the composer Johann Sebastian Bach, reach Thuringia’s oldest castle, the
who, at the age of 18, scandalized the Mühlberg (Mar–Oct: open daily),
con gre ga tion of the Bachkirche with a ruin located above its sleepy
his contra puntal style on the organ. In village. A fur ther 2 km (1 mile) drive
WHERE TO STAY the Schlossmuseum (closed Mon) on north ward toward Wandersleben
Erfurter Strasse are 18th-cen tury doll leads to the ruined Burg Gleichen,
ILMENAU tableau and porcelain dis plays. which still retains its impressive
Berg-und Jagdhotel Gabelbach ª Return to the roundabout and turn defensive walls.
moderate left on to Lindenallee, following signs ª From Mühlberg, continue to
Located midway along the to Zentrum. Turn left at the round about Gotha via Wechmar and
Goethewanderweg path, this on to Wachsenburgallee, then right Schwabhausen. Turn right on to the
com fortable spa hotel in the and then left on to Ohrdrufer Strasse B247 and follow signs to Gotha and
woodland south of Ilmenau is well
placed for walkers. towards Gotha to reach Holzhausen. brown signs to Schloss Friedenstein.
Waldstrasse 23, 98693; 03677 86 00;
www.gabelbach.com
ARNSTADT
Park moderate
This understated design hotel was
renovated from a brick brewery in
2008 and has an attached micro-
brewery/restaurant. Located south of
the old town, it provides free bikes
for guests to explore the region.
Brauhausstrasse 1–3, 99310; 03628 60
74 00; www.hotelpark-arnstadt.de
ERFURT
Zumnorde am Anger moderate
Extra-large beds come as standard in
the classic, modern rooms of this smart
and efficient hotel in the city centre.
Anger 50–51,99084; 0361 568 00;
www.hotel-zumnorde.de
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150

108-109_175705_BR_GER.indd 108 18/07/16 12:15 pm
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