Page 111 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 10: Hilltop Castles and Lush Landscapes 109

Above left Well-restored Wachsenburg, Drei
In Goethe’s Footsteps q Erfurt Gleichen Above right Sculptures around the
While JW Goethe admired Ilmenau Thuringia; 99084 ornate entrance to the Dom in Erfurt Below
town, it was the local countryside Bursting with history and university Pretty buildings lining Fischmarkt, Erfurt
that inspired his artistic and scien­ life, Erfurt is a splendid little city and
tific work. Many visitors come the capital of the Thuringian state.
solely to walk “auf Goethes Spuren” It is also the oldest settlement in VISITING ERFURT
(in Goethe’s foot steps) on the the region, with its earliest historical
Goethewanderweg. The appeal records dating from AD 729. Ascend Parking
of this 20­km (13­mile) hike to Parking is available in the underground
Stützerbach is its scenic variety. the sweeping steps from Domplatz car park in Domplatz and in a car park
Marked by Goethe’s ”g” mono gram, to the Dom St Marien. This cathedral beside the cathedral on Domstrasse.
the trail begins in Ilmenau’s Markt has a low­lit High Gothic choir, with Tourist Information
and passes cliffs and caves before it original choir stalls, 14th­ and 15th­ Benediktsplatz 1, 99084; 0361 664 00;
ascends into high country. Goethe century stained­glass windows and www.erfurt-tourist-info.de
museums lie en route – the cabin in Wolfram, a Romanesque bronze can­
which he wrote Wanderers
Nachtlied on Kickelhahn Hill and dela brum (c. 1160) shaped like a man. EAT AND DRINK IN ERFURT
the ducal hunting lodge Jagdhaus The adjacent five­nave Severikirche
Gabelbach (closed Mon), which has has more Gothic furnish ings and the Schildchen moderate
exhi bits on his science studies. sarcoph agus of St Severus. The high Hidden away in a pretty riverside
backwater, this rustic Gaststätte
The Ilmenau tourist office (www. street off Domplatz, Marktstrasse, (restaurant) specializes in local classics
rennsteig-bus.de), in the Amtshaus, leads to Fischmarkt, sur rounded by such as goulash with red cabbage
stocks maps of the walk. Renaissance patricians’ houses. The and Klösse (dumplings).
“merchant’s bridge”, Krämerbrücke, Schildgasse 3–4, 99084; 0361 540 22 90
0 Schloss Friedenstein spans the Gera river and has picture­ Zum Goldenen Schwan moderate
Thuringia; 99867 postcard views. Hearty fare such as Rostbrätel (roast
The dynastic residence of the ª Return to the B4/B7 junction to pork with onions) and home­brewed
beers are served in this traditional inn.
House of Saxe­Coburg (closed Mon; take the B7 to Weimar. Follow signs to Michealisstrasse 9, 99084; 0361 262
www.stiftungfriedenstein.de) – better Zentrum and park at the Goethehaus 37 42; www.zum-goldenen-schwan.de;
known in Britain as the House of car park on Ackerwand. Jan–Feb: closed Sat & Sun
Windsor – holds interest for everyone.
Works by Cranach the Elder and a
sump tu ous oil painting of 15th­
cen tury suit ors, Gotha Lovers, star in
an art gallery. The floors above have
fabu lously stuccoed period rooms,
museums of antiquities and regional
culture, and the perfectly preserved
court theatre, Eckhof­Theater. One of
the oldest stages in Europe, it hosts
a drama festival in July and August.
ª Continue on Stieler Strasse,
across the B247, to take the B7 to
Erfurt. At the B7/B4 junction, turn left
on to Heinrichstrasse towards the
Dom. Park in Domplatz’s underground
car park.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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