Page 166 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

164 BACK ROADS GERMANY

Above left Ruins of Kloster Limburg, Bad
Dürkheim Above right Vineyards around t Bad Dürkheim a picturesque fashion. A gastronomic
Nierstein Below left Village centre, Nackenheim Rhineland-Palatinate; 67098 hot spot, Freinsheim also boasts a
Below right Wine cellar in Bockenheim The pleasant spa town of Bad number of interesting restaurants.
Dürkheim has a neat, traffic­free ª Return to Ungstein, then turn
WHERE TO STAY
core fringing the Kurpark, a grassy right along the B271 to Bockenheim.
park where the 33­m (108­ft) long
BAD DÜRKHEIM Gradierwerk – a giant outdoor Saumagen
Hotel Annaberg moderate saline air purifier – is one of the
Surrounded by vineyards, this Saumagen – stuffed pig’s stomach
four­star hotel enjoys an idyllic location largest of its kind in Germany. Dating is the Pfalz’s great regional speciality.
and has a delightful restaurant. from 1847, it is the sole survivor of Like the Scottish dish haggis, it
Annabergstrasse 1, 67098; 06322 five similar structures in the town. delights some and intimidates
940 00; www.hotel-annaberg.com To the west of the town centre, on others; as with haggis, the stuffing
is consumed, not the stomach itself.
FREINSHEIM Luitpoldweg, are the ruins of the In the case of Saumagen, the filling
Hotel 1514 moderate Romanesque Benedictine abbey is prepared with a mixture of pota­
A lovely boutique hotel with of Kloster Limburg (open daily). toes, carrots and pork, flavoured with
well­furnished rooms and modern ª Leave Bad Dürkheim along the marjoram and often served sliced
bathrooms. The restaurant in the B271 to Ungstein, then take the minor and seared.
vaulted cellars is well worth a visit. road signposted to Freinsheim.
Hauptstrasse 29, 67251; 06353 505
84 10; www.1514-freinsheim.com
y Freinsheim u Bockenheim
Freinsheimer Hof Rhineland-Palatinate; 67251 Rhineland-Palatinate; 67278
moderate–expensive
A beautifully restored winery in the Snug behind its surviving medieval Situated beside a lake, the village
old town, this hotel has just four pretty walls, Freinsheim is a historic gem of Bockenheim is supposedly
rooms off an open verandah over­ with a perfectly preserved old built in the style of a Roman fort.
looking the lovely central courtyard. town focused on the diminutive The Deutsche Weinstrasse ends
Breite Strasse 7, 67251; 06353 50 804 10;
www.restaurant-freinsheimer-hof.de yet digni fied 18th­century Rathaus. at Bockenheim, where the Haus
Visitors can enjoy a walk around the der Deutschen Weinstrasse, or
NACKENHEIM inner circuit of the town’s walls and House of the German Wine Route,
St Gereon moderate dis cover houses built into them in acts as the northern counterpart
This lovely hotel and restaurant in a
half­timbered house is in the village
centre. It offers ten en suite double
rooms, three suites and one single,
decorated in simple, country style.
Carl-Zuckmayer-Platz 3, 55299; 06135
70 45 90; www.landhotel-st-gereon.com
AROUND NIERSTEIN
Jordan’s Untermühle moderate
The rooms are simple but attractive
at this rustic half­tim be red hotel on
the edge of Köngernheim, between
Westhofen and Mainz. It has an
outstanding restaurant.
Ausserhalb 1, 55278 Köngernheim
(west of Nierstein); 06737 710 00;
www.jordans-untermuehle.de
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150
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