Page 167 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 15: The German Wine Route 165

to the Deutsches Weintor at the
south ern end of the route. The
building spans the road and
contains a restau rant and tourist
information office.
ª Continue along the B271
Weinstrasse to Flörsheim, turning
right toward Westhofen.
i Westhofen
Rhineland-Palatinate; 67593
Enjoying a pretty setting, the
vineyards surround ing the village Above left Outdoor café, Nierstein Above
of Westhofen are dotted with stone 06135 23 41; www.gunderloch.de; right Village gate of Nackenheim
huts. These are character is tic of open Mon–Sat) produces traditional
Rheinhessen’s wine-growing country, sweet wines of exceptional quality VISITING MAINZ
and were originally built by vine yard and some fine dry Rieslings. Parking
workers to provide shelter during ª Leave Nackenheim on the Wormser The Karstadt multi-storey car park
bad weather. Weingut Wittmann Strasse, which joins the B9. Continue in Weissliliengasse is convenient
(Mainzer Strasse 19; 06244 90 50 36; www. on the B9 to Nierstein, then turn left for visit ing the Kaiserdom and
weingutwittmann.de; open Mon–Sat, by on to Pestalozzistrasse to the car park. Gutenberg-Museum.
appointment) produces top-notch dry Tourist Information
Rieslings using organic methods. a Nierstein Brückenturm, Rheinstrasse 55;
ª Leave Westhofen along Mainzer Rhineland-Palatinate; 55283 06131 24 28 88; www.touristik-
mainz.de; closed Sun
Strasse, signposted to Mainz. Shuttered, half-timbered houses and
Strausswirtschaften – temporary wine
o Mainz taverns run by the wine growers – EAT AND DRINK
Rhineland-Palatinate; 55116 characterize Nierstein. The village is
The capital of Rheinland-Pfalz, Mainz famed for its Riesling and is focused FREINSHEIM
(see pp154–5) is dominated by the late on its central Marktplatz. Visitors can 1514 moderate
Romanesque Kaiserdom (open daily). go on a sign posted 14-km (8-mile) There’s a good-quality international
The magni ficence of this imperial walk, the Drei Türme Wanderweg or menu here, featuring dishes with
cathedral reflects the importance of Three Towers Walk (www.nierstein.de), influences from Europe and Asia, and
the Prince-Bishops of Mainz, who were which heads up into the vineyards an excellent selection of local wines.
Electors of the Holy Roman Empire. of the Roter Hang above the village Hauptstrasse 29, 67251; 06353 505
84 10; www.1514-freinsheim.com;
The cathedral was burned down the for views over the Rhine and the closed Sun dinner, Mon
day before its consecration in 1009 surrounding country side. Freinsheimer Hof expensive
and again in 1081. It was rebuilt in ª Continue south on the B9 Terracotta tiles and a vaulted
the first quarter of the 12th cen tury. to Oppenheim, then turn right on to ceiling provide a Mediterranean
Mainz was also the birth place of Mainzstrasse and follow signs to setting for this restau rant’s
print ing pioneer Johannes Gutenberg. Zentral Park-Platz to park. sophisticated cooking.
Exhibits in the Gutenberg-Museum Breite Strasse 7, 67251; 06353 50 804 10;
www.restaurant-freinsheimer-hof.de;
(closed Mon) include a price less Discovering German Wines closed Wed, Thu
Gutenberg Bible printed in Mainz Wine labels reveal much about the
in 1455. style and quality of German wine. NACKENHEIM
ª Leave Mainz along Rheinstrasse, Dry wines are labelled Trocken, semi- St Gereon moderate
following signs to Laubenheim. At dry or slightly sweet wines are Beautifully scrubbed stonework and
timber beams create a country
Laubenheim continue through Halbtrocken and sweet wines are setting for this restaurant’s European
Bodenheim to Nackenheim. Lieblich. Kabinett refers to a wine made menu. There are several vegetarian
with fully ripened grapes; Spätlese options and a great selection of wines.
p Nackenheim means wine made from late-picked Carl-Zuckmayer-Platz 3, 55299;
grapes, while Auslese, Beerenauslese,
Rhineland-Palatinate; 55299 Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese are 06135 70 45 90; www.landhotel-st-
gereon.com
Nackenheim is closely associated made with grapes picked progres-
with the German playwright Carl sively later, producing intense flavour AROUND NIERSTEIN
Zuckmayer, who was born here in and longevity. Many, though not Jordan’s Untermühle moderate
1896. Nestled between vine-covered all, quality wines display the symbol An award-winning restaurant in
of the VDP (Verband Deutscher
slopes and the Rhine, the village Prädikatswein), whose members Köngernheim, Jordan’s Untermühle
has a long history of producing include many of the nation’s offers a good selection of wines.
Ausserhalb 1, 55278 Köngernheim
wine. The long-established Weingut top wine growers. (west of Nierstein); 06737 710 00;
Gunderloch (Carl-Gunderloch-Platz 1, www.jordans-untermuehle.de
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
164-165_175705_BR_GER.indd 165 25/07/16 2:08 pm