Page 215 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 20: Mountain Roads and Vineyards 213

where villas sur round the Stiftskirche
Liebfrauen 6. This church’s land-
mark spire sum ma rizes its architec-
tural history, with a Romanesque
square tower forming the base for
an octa gonal Gothic cap that carries
Baroque cupolas. Behind the church,
occasional wisps of steam drifting
over the cobbled street announce
the presence of the Bäderviertel 7 Above Fountains in Freudenstadt’s town
at the base of some stone steps. The A 20-minute hike starts at the Gothic centre Below left View of wooded hills
baths quarter was estab lished by the ruin of the Allerheiligen monastery and the town of Baden-Baden Below right
Romans and its ruins can still be seen and leads to an attractive waterfall. Typical landscape, Schwarzwaldhochstrasse
at the Römische Badruinen (mid- ª From Allerheiligen return to the
March–mid-Nov: open daily). The ruins B500 and continue south, then left
lie in the basement of the spa on to the B28. In Freudenstadt, turn left EAT AND DRINK
Friedrichs bad (open daily), which on to the B462 to reach the car park.
looks like a minor palace with its BADEN-BADEN
green cop per cupolas and colonna des. 3 Freudenstadt
Return to Lichtentaler Strasse and Baden-Württemberg; 72250 Café König moderate
This is the place to enjoy afternoon
Augustaplatz to reach the car park. Built on a high plateau, Freudenstadt coffee and cake, in particular the
ª Turn left out of the car park, was commissioned by Duke Friedrich I exquis ite Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte
right on to Lichentaler Strasse, which in 1599. The town’s giant marketplace (black forest cherry gâteau).
becomes Hauptstrasse. Turn right is the biggest square in Germany. Lichtentaler Strasse 12, 76530; 07221
235 73; closed dinner
when this road meets the B500, which The most impos ing buildings here
becomes the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse. are the town hall and Stadtkirche, Kurhaus Bistro expensive
Park at the roadside car park an oddly L-shaped church designed A bistro attached to the Kurhaus, this
restaurant serves dishes such as roast
at Mummelsee. to segre gate men and women. duck breast marinated with blackberry
ª Return to the B28, turn left down paste, fried green asparagus and
2 Schwarzwaldhochstrasse Lauterbadstrasse and then take the wild rice risotto.
Baden-Württemberg; 77889 B294 towards Freiburg. In Alpirsbach, Kaiserallee 1, 76530; 07221 90 70
The Schwarzwaldhochstrasse, or Black turn right into Alleenstrasse to park Le Jardin de France expensive
Forest High Road (B500), climbs from on the Krähenbadstrasse. An elegant restaurant in a courtyard
Baden-Baden through mea dows and off Lichtentaler Strasse, this serves
valleys to the pine-covered hills that The Who’s Who of Baden-Baden creative, mod ern French cuisine
using ingre dients such as pak choi
pave the way to Freudenstadt. Various Though still a playground for and northern Iberian sau sage.
view points and belve deres along the the extremely rich, Baden-Baden Lichtentaler Strasse 13, 76530;
route pro vide views to the rolling had its hey day in the late 19th 07221 300 78 60; Jan–Feb: open
hills and vineyards of the upper Rhine century, when the international Wed–Sat, Mar–Dec: open Tue–Sat
Valley and beyond to the French elite flocked here to promenade AROUND FREUDENSTADT
and recuperate. Visiting luminaries
Vosges Mountains. Visitors should included statesmen and monarchs Schwarzwaldstube expensive
allow time for several short hikes such as Queen Victoria, Kaiser With lovely views and countless
(www.schwarzwaldhochstrasse.de) includ- Wilhelm I and Otto von Bismarck, international awards to its name,
ing the 2-km (1-mile) loop around composers such as Pyotr Ilyich the Schwarzwaldstube is always
the Mummelsee. Continue down the Tchaikovsky and Johannes Brahms full of gourmet surprises.
Tonbachstrasse 237, 72270 Baiersbronn
B500 and then turn right into the and novelists such as Leo Tolstoy (11 km/7 miles north of Freudenstadt);
road signposted to Allerheiligen. and Fyodor Dostoevsky. 07442 49 20; open Wed–Sun, closed Aug

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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