Page 216 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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214 BACK ROADS GERMANY


                                                       turn right at Hauptstrasse, then
                                                       left on to Schramberger Strasse for
                                                       on-street parking. Walk back to
                                                       Hauptstrasse, turn left and take the
                                                       alley on the right to the museum.
                                                       5 Schiltach
                                                       Baden-Württemberg; 77761
                                                       The picture-postcard town of Schiltach
                                                       was built on the banks of the Kinzig
                                                       river, where a reconstructed lum ber
                                                       mill houses the Schüttesäge-Museum
                                                       (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Dec: open Sat
                                                       & Sun). The black-and-white photo-
                                                       graphs at this sawmill museum
                                                       illustrate a bygone era when the town
                                                       was the hub of a logging industry. A
                                                       short walk along the river toward
       Above left Farm mill in Vogtsbauernhof,         Hauptstrasse leads to a market place
       Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum  Above    4 Alpirsbach  sur rounded by half-timbered build-
       right Fountain outside a brewery, Alpirsbach    Baden-Württemberg; 72275   ings, none of which date from before
       Below View of the old square from the   Strung out along a tight valley, the   1533, when a fire reduced the town
       16th-century Rathaus, Schiltach  town of Alpirsbach once basked in a   to ashes. The Rathaus or town hall has
                               medieval golden age that gave it the   murals of the blaze, including a depic-
                               Romanesque Benedictine monas tery   tion of the witch blamed for the fire.
        WHERE TO STAY
                               Kloster Alpirsbach (mid-Mar–Oct:    ª Continue on Schramberger
       SCHILTACH               open daily; Nov–mid-Mar: open Thu,    Strasse and turn right on to the
       Zum Weyssen Rössle moderate  Sat & Sun), whose church was built    B294. Then turn right on to the B33
       A short walk from the marketplace, this   of regional red sand stone in the 11th   towards Villingen-Schwenningen.
       traditional guesthouse features cheerful   century. The interior is largely empty,   Park at the signed roadside parking
       floral and modern rooms. It offers free   but worth a look for its power ful nave   beside the museum.
       Wi-Fi, as well as a good continental   capitals, which illustrate the forces of
       breakfast buffet.       good and evil. The cold Dormitorium   6 Schwarzwälder
       Schenkenzeller Strasse 42, 77761;               Freilichtmuseum
       07836 387; www.weysses-roessle.de   and calefactory of the monks are
                               visited by hour-long tours, which also   Baden-Württemberg; 77793
       AROUND SCHWARZWÄLDER    give visitors back ground about life in   Close to the Gutach’s confluence
       TRACHTENMUSEUM          the monastery. Other tours visit the   with the Kinzig is the Schwarzwälder
       Hotel Storchen moderate  adjacent brew ery, the Alpirsbacher   Freilichtmuseum (end Mar–Nov: open
       The traditional half-timbered exterior   Klosterbräu (tours Mon–Fri), which   daily), an open- air museum. The
       of this guesthouse in Haslach sug g ests
       nothing of the eccentricities within. All   brews several fruity local beers.  focus here is the Vogtsbauernhof, a
       its rooms are themed with concepts   ª Return to the B294 from   1612 farmhouse. Its roof is typical of
       such as Oriental, aquatic, desert island   Krähenbadstrasse, turn right,   the local build ing style. Arranged
       and even a hot-air balloon.     following signs to Schiltach. Take the   around the farm are 26 other tradi-
       Hauptstrasse 35, 77716 Haslach (east   Schiltach-Ost entrance to the town,   tional buildings, brought here from
       of Schwarzwälder Trachtenmuseum);
       07832 97 97 97; www.hotel-storchen.de                   around the region to
                                                               create a little village. Cos-
       DURBACH                                                 tumed guides and craft
       Rebstock moderate                                       demon stra tions bring
       With lovely, individually decorated                     the place to life. Visitors
       country-style or boutique rooms                         can follow signs on the
       and suites, this family-run hotel has
       exquisite landscaped gardens that                       B33 from the museum to
       serve as a backdrop for its spa, which                  the Sommerrodelbahn
       includes a sauna and steam room.                        (Apr–Oct: open daily), a
       Halbgütle 30, 77770; 0781 48 20;                        summer toboggan run.
       www.rebstock-durbach.de
                                                               ª Return to the B33,
       Hotel Ritter expensive                                  turning left to Hofstetten.
       An upmarket, family-run boutique                        Turn right at Ringstrasse
       hotel, Ritter has tasteful decor and
       offers superb fitness and spa facilities.               in Haslach. Follow signs
       Tal 1, 77770; 0781 932 30;                              to the museum and park
       www.ritter-durbach.de                                   in the car park beside it.
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150

   214-215_175705_BR_GER.indd   214                                     18/07/16   12:16 pm
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