Page 241 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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DRIVE 23: Germany’s Riviera    239


           Jan Hus (1370–1415)
        A Bohemian religious reformer, Jan
        Hus attacked ecclesiastical abuses
        and started the Hussite religious
        move ment, which demanded a set
        of reforms that anticipated the
        Protestant Reformation. Hus was
        excommunicated in 1411, then
        invited to the Council of Konstanz
        in 1415 to explain his position.
        Instead he was incarcerated and
        placed on trial. He is believed to
        have stood in the central aisle of the
        Münster to hear the judgement,
        which was that he should be burned
        at the stake for heresy. Later, he
        became a figurehead for the Czechs.
                                                        Above Vineyard with Bodensee in the
       which becomes Hussenstrasse, where    2 Reichenau  background, Reichenau  Below Cycling past
       the Hus-Museum 7 (closed Mon)   Baden-Württemberg; 78479   the Benedictine monastery, Reichenau
       occu pies the house where the   Even though the causeway to the
       reformer Jan Hus stayed prior to    island of Reichenau is only 2 km
       his imprison ment. This museum   (1 mile) long, the island’s sense of
       docu ments his life and ideo logies   remoteness, together with a perfect
       through displays. Turn left from    climate, encouraged Benedictines to   EAT AND DRINK
       here, then right down Neugasse    found a monastery here in AD 724.
       and left along Rosengartenstrasse,   One of Europe’s centres of learning    KONSTANZ
       which leads to the           in the 10th century, it was   Hafenhalle inexpensive–moderate
                                                        The largest of the harbourside
       Rosgartenmuseum 8 (closed    famous for its library and   restaurants, with a lively adjacent beer
       Mon), the town’s history     scriptorium, where monks   garden, Hafenhalle offers good local
       museum. Its collec tion helps   would pro duce manu scripts.   fish and game. During summer, stop
       bring medieval Konstanz      Copies can be purchased    here for Sunday breakfast and enjoy
       to life and includes the     in the Museum Reichenau   bands playing Dixieland jazz.
                                                        Hafenstrasse 10, 78462;  07531 211 26;
       Chronicle of the Council of   (Apr–Oct: open daily, Nov–   www.hafenhalle.com
       Konstanz, a richly illustrated   Mar: open Sat & Sun), which
       book by Ulrich Richental, a   Pretty flowers in   provides an intro duction    Staader Fährhaus moderate
                                                        This stylish restaurant with a pleasant
       local land owner. Turn right to   Reichenau  to the island’s three   outdoor terrace beside the ferry
       Markstätte, the commer cial   surviving churches.  terminal in Staad serves creative
       hub of the town. Walk to the right   ª Return to the B33 , turn left then   local fish dishes as well as a good
       along this and left down Brotlaube    right on to Radolfzeller Strasse. Turn   selection of vegetarian food.
       to return to the Fischmarkt car park.  right on to Unterer Riedhaldeweg, then   Fischerstrasse 30, 78464; 07531 361 67
                                                        63; www.staaderfaehrhaus.de
       ª From the car park, turn left and    left on to Hauptweg to park.
       left again on to Konzilstrasse. Follow           Other options
                                                        Among the many cosy places to
       signs for Reichenau/B33, turning left    3 Mainau  enjoy a drink in Konstanz are the
       to cross causeway to the island. The   Baden-Württemberg; 78465   Brauhaus inexpensive (Johann
       museum is signposted with facilities    The thriving palm groves and    Albrecht Konradigasse 2, 78462;
       for car park.           flower gardens (open daily) of the   07531 250 45), a microbrewery with
                               island of Mainau are reminiscent of   an array of beers and pub food.
                                                        The Niederburg Weinstube
                               the Mediterranean, but against an   inexpensive (Niederburggasse 7,
                               Alpine backdrop. The formal gardens   78462; 07531 213 67), a rustic
                               here were planted in 1853 on the   backstreet wine bar, serves regional
                               initiative of Grand Duke Friedrich I of   wines until midnight.
                               Baden and his current descendant,   MAINAU
                               the German-Swedish Countess   Schwedenschenke moderate
                               Bernadotte, continues the tradition.   By day this restaurant is renowned for
                               In summer, the Italian Rose Garden   its Swedish meatballs, but by night it
                               blooms, as do dahlias in autumn.   transforms into an elegant flagship
                               ª Return to Unterer Riedhaldeweg   of haute cuisine, offering a romantic
                               and turn left on to it. In Staad, turn    setting in which to enjoy excellent
                                                        fresh local perch and trout.
                               left on to the B33 to the dock for the   Insel Mainau, 78465; 07531 303 156;
                               Staad-Meersburg ferry.   www.mainau.de
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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