Page 242 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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240 BACK ROADS GERMANY

















       Above left Vineyard topped by 18th-century
       Basilika Birnau  Above right Meersburg   4 Meersburg  summer residence from 1268, were
       harbour, an important ferry port  Below Lakeside   Baden-Württemberg; 88709  inspired to build a cheer ful-looking
       café in the town of Meersburg    Nestled between vineyards and    palace in the 18th cen tury. Baroque
                               with an atmospheric castle loom ing   architect Balthasar Neumann built
                               over its half-timbered pedestrian   the pastel-pink Neues Schloss, but
                               centre, Meersburg is fairy-tale Germany  this could only be enjoyed until
                               come to life. From its main street,   seculariza tion in 1802. It provides
                               Unterstadtstrasse, which runs parallel   great views of the Bodensee.
        WHERE TO STAY          to the lakefront, Steigstrasse leads    ª Turn left on to B31/Unteruhildingen,
                               to the gates of the austere Burg   then on to Meersburger Strasse. In
       MEERSBURG               Meersburg, or Altes Schloss (open daily).   Unteruhildingen, turn right on to main
       Gasthof zum Bären moderate  With foundations laid by Merovingian   car park. Follow signs to the museum.
       A romantic 13th-century inn, with
       small rooms, enjoying a perfect   King Dagobert I in AD 628, this is
       location in the heart of the old town.   Germany’s oldest castle. The Prince-  5 The Pfahlbauten Museum
       Marktplatz 11, 88709;  07532 432 20;    Bishops of Konstanz, who used it as a   Baden-Württemberg; 88690
       www.baeren-meersburg.de                         A reconstructed prehistoric hamlet,
       FRIEDRICHSHAFEN           Annette von Droste-Hülshoff   the Pfahlbauten Museum (closed Dec–
       Gasthof Rebstock inexpensive   (1797–1848)      Feb) features open-air re-creations of
       Located a short walk northwest of the   Perhaps the greatest ever German   Stone and Iron Age dwellings based
       centre, this family-run guesthouse has   female poet, Annette von Droste-  on archaeological remains found
       clean and comfortable rooms. It has a   Hülshoff spent her later years in    here. These suggest that structures
       beer garden and offers bike rentals.    the Altes Schloss in Meersburg. The   were built by driving huge stakes
       Werastrasse 35, 88045; 07541 950 16   dank castle was the perfect muse   into the ground. The interiors provide
       40; www.gasthof-rebstock-fn.de
                                for her tortured Romantic verses,   a glimpse of what life was like here
       Buchhorner Hof moderate  but it was probably the cause of    between 4000 and 850 BC.
       This traditional hotel provides bright   her death too, for she died of
       rooms with Bodensee views and   pneumonia here in 1848. Her flowery   ª Turn right out of the car park toward
       modern facilities.                              Oberuhldingen and turn left for Birnau;
       Friedrichstrasse 33, 88045; 07541 20   Biedermeier quarters have been   park in Basilika's car park.
       50; www.buchhorn.de      well preserved and remain intact.
       Hotel Maier moderate                            6 Basilika Birnau
       The elegant Hotel Maier is 5 km                 Uhldingen-Mühlhofen; 88690
       (3 miles) west of central Friedrichshafen.      The Rococo Basilika Birnau (open Wed
       Rooms are of the bold boutique
       variety and have a satellite TV                 & Sun) was built between 1747 and
       and other facilities.                           1750 by a celebrity cast of desig ners,
       Poststrasse 1–3, 88048; 07541 40 40;            including architect Peter Thumb,
       www.hotel-maier.de                              sculp tor Josef Anton Feuchtmayer,
       LINDAU ISLAND                                   who crafted the altar, and fresco
                                                       painter Gottfried Bernhard Göz. To
       Bayerischer Hof  expensive
       This luxury hotel in a Neo-Classical            the right of the main altar is a side
       building has a prime position on the            altar dedicated to St Bernard of
       lakefront beside the harbour. Its               Clairvaux, whose words were said to
       spacious rooms are decorated with               be sweet as honey, as depicted by
       19th-century style furnishings. The             the statue of a cherub who sucks a
       hotel has fitness and spa facilities,
       which include a pool and a sauna.               finger he has dipped in a beehive.
       Seepromenade, 88131; 08382 91 50;               ª Return to Birnau and then
       www.bayerischerhof-lindau.de                    take the B31 to Friedrichshafen.
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150

   240-241_175705_BR_GER.indd   240                                     25/07/16   2:09 pm
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