Page 192 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

190  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Following a visit to Budapest, the Nobel Prize- the present day, and allied to the fact that
winning Latin American writer Miguel Ángel Hungary now produces some of central
Asturias said that “the exquisite taste of Europe’s finest wines, it’s not difficult to
Hungarian cuisine is a language understood see why Budapest has become a serious
by all”. While classic traditional Hungarian foodie destination.
cooking can still be found all over the city, The most typical examples of traditional
it has been the evolution of contemporary Hungarian cooking can be seen on pages
Hungarian, as well as international, cooking 192–3, while information on what to drink
that has really transformed Budapest’s is given on pages 194–5. A detailed guide
culinary landscape. A clutch of younger, to the city’s best restaurants is provided
more dynamic Hungarian chefs have on pages 196–207. Pubs, bars and nightlife
brought age-old dishes and recipes into can be found on pages 208–9.
Where to Look The best places for al fresco What to Order
There are large numbers of dining are Liszt Ferenc tér, Ordering a Hungarian meal may
superb eating establishments all which runs off Andrássy út, not be as simple as it may first
over the city and the surrounding not far from Oktogon metro seem. There are many different
suburbs. Central Pest has by far station; Ráday utca, which varieties of Hungarian soups,
the greatest concentration of starts at Kálvin tér; and Gozsdu some of which are a meal in
places to eat, though central udvar (Gozsdu Court) which themselves. Bogrács,
Buda, and in particular the is in the heart of the Jewish which is often served
Castle District, has its fair share disctrict. All these areas in a kettle, and
of decent restaurants. The city’s are full of cosy bean soups are
main tourist areas, like Váci utca restaurants, bars and the heartiest and
(see p131), are well off for places cafés, and attract a would normally be
to eat and drink, but often these youthful clientele. followed by a light
do not equate to particularly dish or pancakes.
good value for money. The rather Hungarian fish soup is
annoying practice of touting for Types of a particular speciality
Restaurants,
business is also very prominent and owes its red colour
here. Other wise, it is often worth Cafés and Bars Lantern to paprika. This should
looking off the main roads or The differences outside the be followed by delicate
away from popular areas to find between the types of Gerbeaud homemade pasta served
establish ments frequented by establishments can be Cukrászda with crackling, cheese
local Budapest residents. For real subtle, but they break and cream. There are also
high-end dining, you can’t beat down roughly into the many light soups, or small
the top hotels, like the Gresham following types: Étterem simply portions of the more substantial
Palace or Le Meridien. means restaurant, in which any soups, which can be eaten as a
type of cuisine may be served. starter, thus leaving room for
A csárda comes in various the main course.
forms, though most are folksy The archetypal Hungarian
restaurants typically offering main dish is goulash soup
interesting local specialities – a (gulyás leves) and there are
halászcsárda, meanwhile, will several versions of the basic
offer mainly fish dishes and thick meat stew. Another
soups. There are two types of Hungarian speciality is pörkölt
inn, a vendéglő, which has an (a paprika stew very similar to
informal, typically rustic goulash). This stew is made with
ambience, and a kisvendéglő, all sorts of meat, typically veal,
(literally a “small inn”), which is pork, poultry and game. Often,
similar to a cosy pub. Cafés meals are eaten with bread; the
range from a kávéház (coffee white wheat variety is the most
house), which include Budapest’s popular amongst Hungarians
great literary coffee houses of and it is particularly delicious.
the early twentieth century, to a Food served in bars or
cukrászda (patisserie). Types of bought from butchers’ shops
bars include a borozó, a söröző typically involves spicy
Luxurious banquette seating at La Pampa and an eszpresszó – though sausages, liberally seasoned
Steakhouse (see p200) these often serve food too. with paprika and garlic, grilled

190-191_EW_Budapest.indd 190 15/09/16 10:33 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 15th May 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm