Page 211 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Austria
P. 211

UPPER  A USTRIA      209


       Traunsee, Austria’s deepest lake,   d St Wolfgang   The church of St Wolfgang
       with views of the lake’s wild   Road map D4. * 2,800. @ n Au   also has a lovely Baroque altar-
       southern shore and the   140, (06138) 8003. ∑ stwolfgang.at  piece by Thomas Schwanthaler,
       Traunstein peak on the eastern          depic ting the Holy Family on
       shore, the high est mountain of   On the northern shore of   their journey to Jerusalem.
       the region, rising to 1,691 m   Wolfgangsee lies the popular   The three side altarpieces on
       (5,548 ft). Above the village   town of St Wolfgang. According   the north wall and the magnifi-
       towers the pretty Johannes-  to legend it arose around a   cently ornate pulpit are the
       bergkapelle. On the northern   chapel built by Wolfgang (died   works of a Mondsee master,
       end of the headland stands the   994), bishop of Regensburg    Meinrad Guggenbichler.
       Jesuit Pfarrkirche, rebuilt after a   in Germany and teacher of     St Wolfgang is also popular
       fire in 1632. It has an unusual   Emperor Henry II. Although he   with tourists who come to see
       fishermen’s pulpit shaped like a   died a hermit, Wolfgang was an   the Weisses Rössl hotel, which
       fishing boat, with the apostles   extremely popular figure in his   inspired the operetta, White
       drawing nets filled with fish.   day, and was later canonized.   Horse Inn by Ralph Benatzky.
       Since 1632, Traunkirchen has   His chapel became a much-
       also hosted an annual Corpus   visited place of pilgrimage. In
       Christi boat procession.  the 15th century it was replaced   f Bad Ischl
                           by a church with room for a   Road map D4. * 14,000. £ @
       a Salzkammergut     much larger number of pilgrims.   n Auböckplatz 5, (06132) 27 757-0.
       Lakes               It was around that time that the   Kaiservilla: Jainzen 38, (06132) 23241.
                           abbot of Mondsee commis-
                                                ∑ badischl.com
       See pp210–11.       sioned the famed South
                           Tyrolean artist, Michael Pacher,   Therapeutic saltwater springs
                           to create an altar for the   were discovered in this region as
                           pilgrimage church.   early as the 16th century, but
                             Pacher’s high altar, combining   Bad Ischl did not become a
                           sculpture, painting and archi-  popular health resort until the
                           tecture, is a late-Gothic   early 1800s, when the court
                           masterpiece. The four scenes   doctor ordered saline treat-
                           visible on the wings of the   ments for the infertile Arch-
                           altarpiece when they are closed   duchess Sophie. Soon, she
                           (on weekdays) depict events   started producing babies.
                           from the life of St Wolfgang. The   The most famous of these
                           saint is shown holding a model   was Franz Joseph I, the future
                           of the church and is flanked by   emperor, who spent all his
                           the figures of the saints George   summer holidays with his wife
       The steam mountain railway leading to the   and Florian. On Sundays, the   Elizabeth at the Kaiservilla, now
       top of Schafberg    wings of the altar are opened    a museum, which can be visited
                           to reveal eight painted scenes   on a guided tour. It was also
       s Schafberg         from the life of Christ. They are   here that he signed the
                           striking in their coloration, the   declaration of war with Serbia,
       Road map D4. Scharfbergbahn: n
       (6138) 223 20. ∑ scharfbergbahn.at  dynamics of their life-like figures   on 1 August 1914, signalling
                           and, above all, in the architec-  the start of World War I.
       One of the most picturesque   tural perspective employed by     Many aristocrats and artists
       peaks in the area, Schafberg   the artist. The brightly gilded,   have been attracted to the spa,
       (Sheep Mountain) rises to    sculpted centrepiece depicts   among them the composer
       1,783 m (5,850 ft) between   the Coronation of the Virgin   Franz Lehár, who lived at No. 8
       Attersee and Wolfgangsee.    Mary attended by Christ,    Franz-Lehár-Kai, which is now a
       Austria’s steepest cog railway   St Benedict and St Wolfgang.  museum devoted to him.
       runs old steam trains up to a
       station only 50 m (164 ft) from
       the summit for unforgettable
       views of the most beautiful
       lakes of the Salzkammergut:
       Mondsee, Attersee and
       Wolfgangsee (see pp210–11).
       Visible in the background are
       the towering mountain ranges
       running to the Dachstein
       massif in the south, and,
       beyond Salzburg, you can
       see the Bavarian Alps on the
       German-Austrian border.  The imposing Spa House in the popular resort of Bad Ischl
                                   For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp320–21


   208-209_EW_Austria.indd   209                             07/11/2017   16:19
   206   207   208   209   210   211   212   213   214   215   216