Page 171 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina
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ARGENTINIAN  LIT OR AL      169


                           better known to Argentinians    0 Mercedes
                           as the birthplace of revered   Road map C2. 167 miles (270 km) SE
                           Independence hero General   of Corrientes. * 35,000. @ n
                           José de San Martín (see p55).    Sarmiento 650, (03773) 1541-2216.
                           At the eastern edge of the main   _ Fiesta del Chamamé (Nov).
                           Plaza San Martín is Templete   ∑ mercedescorrientes.gov.ar
                           Sanmartiniano, which preserves
                           the ruins of the small fort where   A gateway to the stunning
                           the liberator spent his childhood.   Esteros del Iberá (see pp170–71),
                           To the south of the plaza is   Mercedes is a sleepy town with
                           Museo de Cultura Jesuítica   lovely 19th-century streets
                           Guillermo Furlong, which sits   and distinc tive adobe
                           atop the Jesuit mission’s   build ings. The town’s
                           red sand stone         single museum is housed
                           foundations. It houses   within the Casa de la
                           Jesuit arti facts and    Cultura. Exhibits here
                           wooden panels detailing   include bayo neted rifles
                           the history of the       recovered from 19th-
       Towering yatay palm protected at Parque   region. At the southern   century civil war battle-
       Nacional El Palmar  end of town is Museo     grounds. Mercedes
                           Sanmartiniano,   Wooden horse display,   has several shops,
       8 Parque Nacional   displaying weaponry   Museo Jesuítica  such as Manos
       El Palmar           that belonged to the       Corrientes, that
                           San Martíns.        sell exquisite gaucho ware.
       Road map C2. 31 miles (50 km) N         A 6-mile (9-km) drive west of
       of Colón. n Ruta Nacional 14,    E Museo de Cultura Jesuítica   town is a roadside shrine to
       Ubajay (03447) 493-053.    Guillermo Furlong  local saint-hero Gauchito Gil.
       Open daily. & 0 - =    Sargento Cabral & Romero.
                           Open 8am–noon & 2–6pm Mon–Fri.  E Casa de la Cultura
       Covering an area of 33 sq miles   E Museo Sanmartiniano  Parque Mitre. Open Dec–Mar: 4–8pm
       (85 sq km), Parque Nacional El   Ave Libertador s/n. Open 8am–4pm   daily; Apr–Nov: 8am–noon,
       Palmar was created in 1965 to   daily. &  2–6pm daily.
       conserve the yatay palm, which
       once covered most of the Entre   The Legend of Gauchito Gil
       Ríos and Corrientes provinces.
       These tall, slender trees were in   Popular saint Gauchito Gil was a deserter from a 19th-century
       danger of extinc tion from mass   provincial war. On escaping to the mountains, he became a Robin
       clearing for farming and forestry   Hood-type figure who stole from rich landowners to give to the
       in the early 20th century. The   poor. His legend was sealed on his capture, where at his hanging
       park also protects large swathes   he is said to have whispered to his executioner, “When you go home
       of marshland and gallery forest.  you will find your son dying. Pray for my intercession, for the blood
         The park is home to myriad   of an innocent can perform miracles.” The hangman returned home
       fauna, including reptiles such as   to find his son in agony. After the child’s recovery, he erected a cross
       the tegu lizard and the ostrich-  hung with a red ribbon in honor of Gauchito. Today, this site is a
                            ribbon-festooned, candle-adorned shrine covered with messages
       like ñandú. The wet lands and   beseeching the intercession of Gauchito. Such is Argentina’s
       gallery forests are a refuge for   reverence for this popular saint, who is not recognized by the
       herons, kingfishers, and   Vatican, that each January on the anniversary of Gil’s hanging,
       woodpeckers, while otters and   up to 100,000 pilgrims visit the shrine.
       capybaras inhabit the park’s
       riverbanks. Hiking trails criss-
       cross the park, which is also
       traversable by car.
       9 Yapeyú
       Road map D2. 245 miles (395 km) SE
       of Corrientes. * 3,000. @ n
       Sargento Cabrán & Gregoria Matorra
       (03772) 493-198. ∑ corrientes.com.
       ar/yapeyu
       Founded as a base in 1626 by
       Jesuits seeking to convert the   Gaucho Antonio Gil’s shrine where pilgrims tie red ribbons
       indigenous Guaraní, Yapeyú is




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