Page 204 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina

202  ARGENTINA REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Quebrada de Humahuaca craftsmen. South of the main
plaza is Museo Histórico
The easiest way to explore the stunning quebrada landscape Provincial Juan Lavalle, which
is to drive along Ruta Nacional 9, which runs from the picture- houses colonial paintings and
postcard village of Purmamarca to the junction for the idyllic arti facts. Its claim to fame, how-
hamlet of Iruya. The road up is flanked by the towering walls ever, is its reputation as a crime
of the massive multi colored gorge and the drive is especially scene. General Juan Lavalle
beautiful in the mornings and evenings when the western was assass inated here during
Argentina’s civil wars in the
side is soaked by sunrise and the eastern wall is hit by sunset, 1840s. The hole through which
bringing out the flaming orange and vermilion of the the lethal bullet passed is still
mountains. To see man-made wonders along this ancient visible. Three blocks west of the
route – whitewashed colonial chapels, lush fields of quinoa, museum is the 18th-century
and alpaca farms – take detours to the villages of Tilcara, Capilla de Santa Bárbara, with
an out standing collec tion of
Uquia, Maimará, and Humahuaca.
reli gious paintings.
Quiet for most of the year,
Jujuy offers little apart from
leisurely strolls through its
cobblestoned streets. It is an
excellent base from which
to explore the province’s
remote areas includ ing the
two cloud forest national
parks, Calilegua (see p205) and
the less accessible Barítu.
Purmamarca
40 miles (65 km) NW of Jujuy.
* 2,100. n Rivadavia and Jujuy.
The picturesque village of
Purmamarca nestles at the base
Cerro de Siete Colores under a blue sky in Purmamarca of the gorge of the same name.
It owes its fame to the hill that
San Salvador de Jujuy depict Biblical subjects such as over looks it, Cerro de Siete
75 miles (121 km) N of Salta. Jacob’s Lad der, are richly detailed Colores (Hill of Seven Colors).
* 240,000. ~ @ n Gorriti 295, and show both the skill of the The contrast ing shades of the
(0388) 422-1326. ∑ turismo.jujuy. crafts men and the enduring rock’s strata range from grimy
gov.ar Museo Histórico Provincial eloquence of reli gious art. orange to psychedelic purple
Juan Lavalle Lavalle 256. Tel (0388) Two blocks west of the plaza and are at their glittering best
422-1355. Open 8am–noon, 4–8pm is the neo-colonial Iglesia San just after sunrise. A signposted
Mon–Sat. & 8 10am, 11:30am, Francisco, which was built route takes visitors to a viewing
5pm, & 6:30pm. =
between 1925 and 1927. It is point just outside the village.
The capital of Jujuy province, best known for its Spanish
San Salvador de Jujuy is the Baroque pulpit, which was Posta de Hornillos
highest provin cial capital in carved by 18th-century Bolivian 45 miles (73 km) NW of Jujuy.
the country. Located 4,166 ft Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon.
(1,270 m) above sea level, and Built in 1772, this wonderfully
flanked by Ríos Grande and Xibi evocative adobe-walled
Xibi, the city enjoys a temperate building was once a stop-off
climate. Founded in 1593, Jujuy point on the route that con-
was destroyed and rebuilt nected the colonial vice royalties
several times due to wars and of Upper Peru (now Bolivia) and
earth quakes. The city’s history Río de la Plata. In 1979, it was
can best be traced through its converted into a museum
churches that are scattered and its 19 rooms display old
around the central Plaza furniture, weap ons of war,
General Belgrano. costumes, and historical docu-
To the west stands the ments from the 18th and 19th
Catedral, which was built in centuries. Its other claim to
1606. Among its trea sures is fame is that General Belgrano
the Baroque pulpit, designed rested here after defeating
by local artisans in the 18th Grand interior of the Iglesia San Francisco in the Spanish in the battles of
century. Its carvings, which San Salvador Tucumán and Salta in 1813.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp280–81 and pp293–4

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm