Page 259 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina
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P A T A GONIA      257


       } Sendero Piedra del Fraile
       Hikers wishing to further                        Laguna
                                                        Condor
       explore the national park         Playita
       should make the trek to Piedra         Laguna
                                                Azul
       del Fraile, a base camp located   Lago  Río Eléctrico
       at the north ern edge of the     Eléctrico Piedra del
       massif. A 4-hour trail to the   Glaciar Marconi  Fraile
       camp starts at Campo                    Laguna Piedras
       Poincenot and follows the                  Blancas
       Río Blanco and Río Eléctrico   Mount Fitz Roy  Gl. Piedras Blancas Laguna
                                      11,168 ft
                                                  Sendero Piedra del Fraile
       valleys. The trail skirts Glaciar               Poincenot
                                                 Río Blanco
       Piedras Blancas and passes   Glaciar Patagonico Continental  Gl. Rio Blancas de los Tres
                                              Laguna
       through quiet lenga forests.    Cerro Standhart  Sucia  Laguna
                                                  Madre
                               9,186 ft
       The latter half of the trail offer s   Torre Egger  Glaciar Torre  Sendero Laguna de los Tres
       great views of Mount Fitz Roy’s   9,514 ft      Laguna
       north face.             Cerro Torre  Glaciar Grande  Agostini  Capri  El
                                10,280 ft
         On reaching Piedra del Fraile   Cerro Grande  Laguna
                                                    Sendero Laguna Torre Chaltén
       there is a private camping   9,200 ft  Torre   Río Fitz Roy
       ground with hot water and
       cabins. Trails from Piedra del                        El Calafate
       Fraile lead up to the Southern   Glaciar Quervain
       Patagonian Ice Field. Week-  Glaciar Viedma  Glaciar Túnel  Toro
       long expedi tions to the ice
       fields, suitable only for experi-  Lago     Río Túnel  Puerto Bahía
                                                             Túnel
                                         Toro
       enced snow- and ice-trekkers,
                                                               Lago
       can be organized with tour                             Viedma
       operators in El Chaltén.
                           caves or a 1.5-hour trek across
                           the glacier’s icy surface.   0 kilometers  5
                           Professional guides provide   0 miles  5
                           equip ment, including cram-
                           pons. The guides are all   Key
                           knowledgeable and speak both
                           Spanish and English. Many tour      Minor road
                           operators run excursions to the      Trail
                           glacier from El Chaltén.
                            The Cerro Torre Controversy
                            It was hailed as the greatest mountaineering feat of all time but
                            many doubt that it actually happened. On January 28, 1959, Italian
       Glaciar Viedma rising from the waters    climber Cesare Maestri, together with Austrian Toni Egger, set out
       of Lago Viedma       to scale the unconquered Cerro Torre, then considered the world’s
                            toughest peak. Six days later, Maestri alone reached the base. He
       } Glaciar Viedma     said that both Egger and he had made it to the summit but the
       Covering an immense area of   Austrian had been killed by an avalanche on their descent. The pair’s
       378 sq miles (978 sq km), this   camera was also lost in the accident. One of the greatest climbers of
                            his day, Maestri demanded to be taken on his word. Investi gations
       vast river of ice is the biggest            found no trace of the
       glacier in South America. Boat              pair’s equipment beyond
       excursions to its 131-ft (40-m)             the lower reaches.
       high face leave from Puerto                 Embittered, Maestri’s
       Bahía Túnel on Lago Viedma’s                response to his critics
       northern shore. Most trips                  was to make two more
       range from 2 to 6 hours in                  attempts to climb
       length. The longer excursions               the summit, but in vain.
       are the most spectacular,                   Now in his seven ties, he
       allowing visitors to disembark              still holds that he and
       and see the magnificent glacier             Egger were the first to
       close-up. There are also   The Italian mountaineer Cesare Maestri  conquer Cerro Torre.
       undemand ing hikes that can be
       arranged to the beautiful glacial
                                                 For keys to map symbols see back flap
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