Page 89 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina
P. 89

SAN   TELMO  AND  LA  BOC A      87


                                               Maradona and other soccer
                                               stars, church leaders, and
                                               even Buenos Aires waiters.
                                               These elements are thrown
                                               into the dramaturgical melting
                                               pot to create works that are
                                               witty and wild but which
                                               also function as serious
                                               historical commentaries.
                                                 Some shows are performed
                                               outdoors, using the amphi-
                                               theater at Parque Lezama, but
                                               the company’s headquarters
                                               remains at this converted
                                               warehouse, where most of
       Bells on display at the Museo Histórico Nacional  their plays are performed.
       8 Museo Histórico   illustrate the reign of the Pérons,   0 Museo Histórico
       Nacional            the social and eco nomic horrors   de Cera
                           of the 1970s, or the more recent
       Defensa 1600. City Map 1 E2. Tel (011)   financial disasters that threw the   Calle del Valle Iberlucea 1261, La Boca.
       4307-1182. @ 10, 24, 29, 39, 64, 130,   country into disarray.  City Map 1 F4. Tel (011) 4301-1497.
       152. Open 11am–6pm Wed–Fri & hols,      @ 20, 25, 29, 33, 46, 53, 64, 86, 152,
       11am–7pm Sat & Sun. 8 3pm Sat,          168. Open 11:30am–7pm Mon–Fri (to
       3pm & 5pm Sun & hols. ∑ museo­  9 El Galpón de   6pm winter), 11am–8pm Sat, Sun, &
       historiconacional.cultura.gob.ar  Catalinas   hols (to 6pm winter). 8
                                               ∑ museodecera.com.ar
                           Ave Benito Perez Galdós 93. City
       Originally called Museo Histórico   Map 1 F3. Tel (011) 4300-5707. @ 10,
       de la Capital, Museo Histórico   24, 29, 64. ∑ catalinasur.com.ar  The only museum of its kind
       Nacional was created by mayor           in the country, the Museo
       Francisco Seeber in 1889. It is   Formed in 1982 by artistes    Histórico de Cera (Historical
       housed in an elegant Italianate   from the neighborhood of    Wax Museum) is located in an
       man sion, formerly the home of   La Boca, El Galpón de Catalinas   early 20th-century Italian Re-
       the wealthy Lezama family. The   is open to everyone. This    naissance style house close to
       displays present a concise history   actors’ cooperative has a well-  El Caminito (see p89). Opened
       of Argentina from the 16th   known theater troupe which   in 1980, the museum has since
       through to the 19th century.   uses a comic, carni valesque   been recognized as a place of
       There are 30 rooms that trace,   approach to present an   cultural interest by the city.
       through relics and paintings, the   irreverent, alternative view       The museum delves into La
       dramas of the Jesuit missions and  of Argentinian history.  Boca’s history through lifelike
       the battles between the Spanish     The elements of la murga    waxwork figures, including a
       and indi genous tribes, and   (a local street dance with roots   model of Spanish explorer
       between royalists and republi-  in Buenos Aires’s African   Pedro de Mendoza. Also on
       cans. Finally, the turbulent    community) are coupled with   display are news clippings,
       19th century is documented –    iconic Argentinian figures,   tango memorabilia, and photo-
       this was the period when rival   including the Peróns, Diego   graphs from the last century.
       factions fought over the newly
       independent nation. Donations
       from living rela tives of important
       figures from the Revolución de
       Mayo and the Wars of
       Argentinian Independence
       (see p55) make up most of the
       museum’s excellent collection.
         One of the more interesting
       exhibits is a series of paint ings
       produced by Argentinian
       painter and soldier Cándido
       López (see p36) portraying
       moving scenes from the war
       against Paraguay in the 1870s,
       in which he also fought. Oddly
       enough, little else is covered
       here, and there is nothing to   Raucous live performance at El Galpón de Catalinas




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