Page 91 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina
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SAN   TELMO  AND  LA  BOC A      89


       back to the end of the   the on-site museum, the
       19th century. Within the   Museo de la Pasion
       traditional exterior there   Boquense, is infinitely less
       are three modern floors   exciting than going to a
       and a roof terrace,    match. It does, however,
       allowing for an        have flashy audio and visual
       extensive and varied    giz mos and statistic-heavy
       year-round program      dis play boards, cele-
       of exhibitions that     brating Boca Juniors’
       include painting,        many trophies and
       sculpture, and           show ing a reverence for
       photo graphy. Various   their former players that
       video installations,   Exhibit at Museo de la   borders on idolatry.
       concerts, fashion   Pasion Boquense  Modern additions to
       shows, and conferences   the museum are El Diez,
       are also included in the   a statue of Diego Maradona, and
       eclectic schedule of events.  a 10-ft- (3-m-) high figure of   Empty stands that fill to capacity for
         Several temporary exhibitions   Martín Palermo, the club’s   matches at La Bombonera
       are held each year. The primary   highest goal scorer.
       focus is on 20th-century Latin          by commercialization. What
       American art, though not                draws the multitude of
       exclusively or dogmatically so.   y El Caminito   photographers and makes
       In past years, for example, the   Calle del Valle Iberlucea 1300. City   El Caminito a staple of glossy
       museum has exhibited many   Map 1 F4. @ 29, 33, 152, 159.  coffee-table books are the
       exciting works ranging from             houses which flank the street
       Mexican archaeological finds    Recognized as Argentina’s    and whose corrugated zinc
       to contemporary Italian   only open-air museum,    walls and roofs are painted in
       abstract paintings.  El Caminito (Little Lane) is a    vivid colors. Blues and yellows,
         Refurbished in 2007, the   short pedestrianized street   the colors of the Boca Juniors
       Fundación Proa now has more   jutting out west from La    soccer team, predominate.
       spacious exhibition areas and   Vuelta de Rocha. Its name is   This polychromatic practice
       improved facilities. Already   taken from a tango song   was devised by 19th- and
       considered one of the best art   reminiscent of a melancholic   early 20th-century Genoese
       museums in Buenos Aires, this   Shakespearean reflection on   immigrants, who scrounged
       stylish and brilliantly curated   the ravages of time, written    pots of paint from wherever
       gallery is a treasure trove for the   in 1926 by locals Peñaloza    they could to brighten up their
       culturally minded tourist.  and Filiberto. Although the   otherwise dismal, and usually
                           street is over crowded with   overcrowded, slum dwellings.
                           vendors and pamphleteering   Now the street brims with
       t La Bombonera      restau rant staff, its charms have   displays of artworks, handi-
                           not been entirely obliterated   crafts, and sculptures.
       Brandsen 805. City Map 1 E3.
       Tel (011) 5777-1212. @ 29, 33, 152,
       159, 168. Open 11am−5pm daily.
       Closed restricted on match days.
       7 - = Museo de la Pasion
       Boquense: Tel (011) 4362-1100.
       Open 10am–6pm daily. & 8 call
       to verify. ∑ museoboquense.com
       Named La Bombonera (The
       Chocolate Box) in reference to its
       particularly compact structure,
       this soccer stadium was built in
       1940 and remodeled in the 1990s
       by the then club president and
       city mayor, Mauricio Macri (who
       has since become the Argentine
       president). It has seen many
       exciting matches and been
       packed with similarly passionate
       audiences. When empty,
       however, it has an eerie stillness
       and solemnity, like a battlefield
       devoid of its two armies. Visiting   One of the colorful buildings flanking El Caminito




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