Page 179 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Australia
P. 179

THE  BL UE  MOUNT AINS  AND  BEY OND   177


       the waterfront. The show also               promenade areas and
       provides visitors with an                   outdoor cafés. On the
       entertaining and educational                southern side of the
       commentary about the area’s                 harbour, Nobbys
       pelicans, birds and marine life.            Lighthouse sits at the
                                                   end of a long causeway;
       O Forest of Tranquility –                   the vista back over old
       Australian Rainforest Sanctuary             Newcastle makes the
       Ourimbah Creek Rd, Ourimbah.                brief walk worthwhile.
       Tel (02) 4362 1855. Open 10am–4pm                 Further on lies Fort
       Sat & Sun (last adm 2pm). Closed 25         Scratchley, built originally
       Dec. & 7 limited. ∑ forestof                to repel the coal-seeking
       tranquility.com                             Russians in the 1880s.
       O Australian Reptile Park                   Despite constant
       Pacific Hwy, Somersby. Tel (02) 4340        surveillance, the fort did
       1022. Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed 25         not open fire until the
       Dec. & 7 ∑ reptilepark.com.au               1940s, when the Japanese
                                                   shelled Newcastle during
       Environs                                    World War II. Good surfing
       There are several national parks            beaches lie on either side
       within a short distance of   Italianate post office in Newcastle  of the harbour’s entrance.
       Gosford. Bouddi National Park is
       one of the most diverse reserves   Classical; the Court Chambers   E Newcastle Region Art Gallery
       in the state, with sandstone   are High Victorian; the post   Cnr Darby & Laman sts. Tel (02) 4974
       cliffs, secluded beaches and   office was modelled on   5100. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
       coastal heaths blanketed in   Palladio’s Basilica in Venice   Closed 25 Dec, Good Fri.
       wildflowers. Also worth a visit is   and the town’s cathedral,   ∑ nag.org.au
       the Bulgandry Aboriginal site in   Christ Church, is an elaborate   P Fort Scratchley
       Brisbane Waters National Park,   and impressive example of   Nobbys Rd. Tel (02) 4974 2027. Open
       which has rock engravings of   Victorian Gothic.  10am–4pm Wed–Mon (last tour
       human and animal figures   The modern Newcastle   2:30pm). Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. 8
       dating back thousands of years.  Region Art Gallery houses   paid. 7 ∑ fortscratchley.com.au
                           works by some of the country’s
                           most prominent 19th- and   Environs
       4Newcastle          20th-century artists, including   Four times the size of Sydney
                           the Newcastle-born William   Harbour (see pp78–107), Lake
       * 140,000. ~ £ @ @
       ∑ visitnewcastle.com.au  Dobell, Arthur Boyd and   Macquarie lies 20 km (12 miles)
                           Brett Whiteley (see pp38–9).  south of Newcastle. The lake’s
       One visitor to Newcastle,   Queens Wharf is the main   vast size facilitates nearly every
       Australia’s second-oldest city,   attraction of the harbour fore-  kind of watersport imaginable.
       remarked in the 1880s: “To my   shore. It was redeveloped   On the western shore, at Wangi
       mind the whole town appeared   during the 1980s as part of   Wangi, is Dobell House, once
       to have woke up in fright at our   a bicentennial project. There   home to the renowned local
       arrival and to have no definite   are splendid views from its   artist, William Dobell.
       ideas of a rendezvous whereat
       to rally.” The chaos to which he   Francis Greenway, Convict Architect
       referred was largely the result
       of the city’s reliance on coal   Australian $10 notes once bore the portrait of
       mining and vast steel works.   the early colonial architect Francis Greenway.
       Building progressed with no   This was the only currency in the world to pay
       planning as profits rose.  tribute to a convicted forger. Greenway was
        Today this chaos only adds   transported from England to Sydney in 1814
       to Newcastle’s charm. The city   to serve a 14-year sentence for his crime.
       curls loosely around a splendid   Under the patronage of Governor Lachlan
       harbour and its main streets rise   Macquarie, who appointed him Civil
       randomly up the surrounding   Architect in 1816, Greenway designed more
                            than 40 buildings, of which 11 still survive
       hills. Industry is still the   today. He received a full King’s Pardon in
       mainstay, but this does not   1819, but soon fell out of favour because
       detract from the city’s quaint   he charged exorbitant fees for his
       beauty. The main thoroughfare   architectural designs while still on
       of Hunter Street has many   a government salary. Greenway
       buildings of diverse architectural   eventually died in poverty in 1837.  Francis Greenway (1777–1837)
       styles. The Courthouse follows
       a style known as Late Free
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