Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Australia

6  How T o u S e TH i S guide
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most from on subjects of regional interest. Suggestions
your visit to Australia. Introducing Australia on restaurants, accommodation, shopping
maps the whole country and sets it in its and entertainment are in Travellers’ Needs.
historical and cultural context. The 17 The Survival Guidehas tips on getting around
regional chapters, including Sydney, describe Sydney, describe Sydney the country. The cities of Sydney, Melbourne
important sights with maps, pictures and and Brisbane also have their own Practical
illustrations, as well as introductory features Information sections.

Sydney SY DNEY  109
BOTANIC GARDENS
The centre of Sydney has been AND THE DOMAIN 1 Area Map
The Domain, an open, grassy space, was
This tranquil part of Sydney can seem a
divided into four sightseeing world away from the bustle of the city centre. originally set aside by the colony’s first 1Sights are numbered on
governor for his private use. Today it is
It is rich in the remnants of Sydney’s convict
and colonial past: the site of the first farm
filled with joggers and touch footballers
and the boulevard-like Macquarie Street sidestepping picnickers and sunbathers. In
areas. Each area has its own where the barracks, hospital, church and January, during the Festival of Sydney, it hosts a map. Sights in the city
free outdoor concerts. The Royal Botanic
mint – bastions of civic power – are among
the oldest surviving public buildings in
Gardens has for almost 200 years collected,
chapter which opens with a list Australia. This street continues to assert grown, researched and conserved plants from centre are also shown on
Australia and the rest of the world. The result
its dominance today as the location of the
is a parkland of great diversity and beauty.
state government of New South Wales.
of the sights described. All the Sights at a Glance the Sydney Street Finder
Historic Streets and Buildings
2 Conservatorium of Music (see pp152–9). Melbourne
7 State Library of New South Wales
sights are numbered and plotted 8 Parliament House
9 Sydney Hospital
0 The Mint
q Hyde Park Barracks Museum See also Street Finder, also has its own Street
on an Area Map. Information on Museums and Galleries maps 1 and 4 Finder (see pp418–25).
5 Art Gallery of New South Wales
pp114–17
each sight is easy to locate within Churches
w St James’ Church
Islands
4 Fort Denison
the chapter as it follows the Monuments SYDNEY HARBOUR TUNNEL MACQUARIES
MRS
3 Mrs Macquaries Chair
POINT
Parks and Gardens
numerical order on the map. 1 Royal Botanic Gardens pp110–11 Farm Cove Andrew (Boy) A locator map shows where
6 The Domain
Charlton Pool
S T R E E T CAHILL EXPRESSWAY ROYAL BOTANIC MRS MACQ UARIES ROAD you are in relation to other
GARDENS
A M RS MACQUARIES ROAD areas of the city centre.
SHAKESPEARE AY
0 metres 250 PLACE
0 yards 250
R O A D
M A C Q U A R I E THE
Martin H O S P I T A L DOMAIN R O A D
Place
Sights at a Glance lists the QUEENS SQUARE St James A R T G A L L E R Y SIR JOHN YOUNG CRESCENT
chapter’s sights by category: 92  SY DNEY S T M ARY CIT Y CENTRE AND D ARLING HARBOUR  93
Historic Streets and Buildings, The airy interior of the Art Gallery of New South Wales A reminder of the late 19th century CITY CENTRE BOTANIC GARDENS
Street-by-Street: City Centre
3 Strand Arcade
Museums and Galleries, Parks Although closely rivalled by Melbourne, Sydney is the Victorian era when Sydney was famed DARLING AND THE DOMAIN
as a city of elegant shopping arcades,
this faithfully restored example is said
business and commercial capital of Australia. Vibrant
and Gardens etc. by day, at night the streets are far less busy when to have been the finest of them all. HARBOUR
office workers and shoppers have gone home. The
comparatively small city centre of this sprawling
metropolis seems to be almost jammed into a few
city blocks. Because Sydney grew in such a haphazard Locator Map
fashion, with many of today’s streets following tracks See Central Sydney map pp66–7
from the harbour originally made by bullocks, there was
no allowance for the expansion of the city into what has
become a major international centre. A colourful night 1. Queen Victoria Building
scene of cafés, restaurants and theatres is emerging, Taking up an entire city block, this
All pages relating to Sydney however, as more people return to the city centre to live. 1898 former produce market was G E O R G E S T R E E T
lovingly restored in 1986 and is
now a shopping mall.
have orange thumb tabs. MLC
Centre
4. Martin Place
M A R T I N P L A C
M A R T I N P L A C E E
Martin Place’s 1929 Art Deco
Street-by-Street Map 2 State Theatre Y O R K S T R E E T K I N G S T R E E T Cenotaph is the site of annual
Anzac Day war remembrance
G E O R G E S T R E E
services including the solemn
A gem from the golden age of movies,
this 1929 cinema was once hailed as “the P I T T S T R E E T dawn service.
Empire’s greatest theatre”. It now hosts
2This gives a bird’s-eye view of the liv live concerts too. e concerts too. G E O R G E S T R E E T T C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T T
C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E
heart of each sightseeing area. M A R K E T S T R E E T
M A R K E T
To Sydney S T R E E
P I T T S T R E E T T E L I Z A B E T H Westfield Sydney, one of the
M A R K E T S T R E E T T
P I T T S T R E E
Town Hall Theatre Royal
city’s main shopping centres,
Myer department stores
A suggested route for a walk covers the 0 metres 0 yards 100 100 C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T features the David Jones and
(see p137), speciality shops
and a large food court.
more interesting streets in the area. The Queen Victoria Statue was Key Suggested route
Hyde Park’s
found after a worldwide search E L I Z A B E T H S T R E E T northern end
in 1983 ended in a small Irish
village. It had lain forgotten and P A R K S T R E E
neglected since being removed
from the front of the Irish 5. Sydney Tower
Parliament in 1947. T The tower tops the city skyline, giving he tower tops the city skyline, giving
Marble Bar was once a landmark bar in the a bir a bird’s eye view of the whole of d’s eye view of the whole of
P A R K S T R E E T T
1893 Tattersalls hotel. It was re-erected in the Sydney. It rises 305 m (1,000 ft) above dney. It rises 305 m (1,000 ft) above
Sy
basement of the Sydney Hilton in 1973, and the g the ground and can be seen from as round and can be seen from as
again in 2005 when the hotel was rebuilt. far a far away as the Blue Mountains. way as the Blue Mountains.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp482–97 and pp504–35
82  SY DNEY THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  83
Stars indicate sights that
works by Hockney, Warhol, 4Sailors’ Home
Lichtenstein and Christo was 106 George St, The Rocks. Map 1 B2.
transferred to this 1950s Art @ Sydney Explorer, 339, 340, 431, no visitor should miss.
Deco-style building at Circular 432, 433, 434.
Quay West. As well as showing
its permanent collection, the Built in 1864 as lodgings
museum hosts exhibitions by for visiting sailors, the first
local and overseas artists. The and second floors here were
MCA Store sells distinctive gifts dormitories, but these were
by Australian designers. later divided into 56 cubicles
or “cabins” which were
3Cadman’s arranged around open Terrace restaurants at Campbell’s Storehouses on the waterfront
galleries and lit by four
Cottage enormous skylights. At the 6Campbell’s outdoor eating establishments
time it was built, the Sailors’ very popular with local business
110 George St, The Rocks. Home was a welcome Storehouses people and tourists alike.
Map 1 B2. @ 431, 432, 433, 434. alternative to the many seedy 7–27 Circular Quay West, The Rocks.
Closed to the public. Detailed Information
inns and brothels in the area, Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431,
Built in 1816 as barracks for saving sailors from the perils 432, 433, 434. 7 7Sydney
the crews of the governor’s of “crimping”. “Crimps” would Harbour Bridge
boats, this sandstone cottage tempt newly arrived men into Robert Campbell, a prominent See pp84–5. 3on each Sight
is Sydney’s oldest surviving bars providing much sought- Scottish merchant in the early
dwelling. Visitors can walk after entertainment. While days of Sydney, purchased
1799. In 1802 he began
Old-fashioned Australian goods at the corner shop, Susannah Place around the small, historic site, drunk, the sailors would be this land on Sydney Cove in All the sights in Sydney are
but cannot enter the building.
sold on to departing ships,
waking miles out at sea and
The cottage is named after
constructing a private wharf
1Susannah Place when the Builders Labourers’ John Cadman, a convict who returning home in debt. and storehouses in which to
Sailors used the home until
58–64 Gloucester St, The Rocks. Federation imposed a “green was transported in 1798 for 1980. It is now home to the house the tea, sugar, spirits and described individually. Useful
ban” on The Rocks, temporarily
horse-stealing. By 1813, he
cloth he imported from India.
Map 1 B2. Tel (02) 9241 1893.
@ Sydney Explorer, 431, 432, 433, halting all redevelopment work was coxswain of a timber highly-regarded Sailors’ Thai Campbell was the only
434.  Circular Quay, Wynyard. which was destructive to boat and later, coxswain of restaurant and noodle bar. merchant operating in Australia
Open 2–5pm daily. Closed Good Fri, cultural heritage. government craft. He was who managed to infiltrate the
25 Dec. & 8 ∑ sydneyliving granted a full pardon and 5The Rocks monopoly held by the British addresses, telephone numbers,
museums.com.au 2Museum of in 1827 he was made boat Discovery Museum East India Company. The first
five sandstone bays were built
superintendent and moved
This terrace of four brick and Contemporary Art to the four-room cottage Kendall Lane, The Rocks. Map 1 B2. between 1839 and 1844. A
sandstone houses dating back Circular Quay West, The Rocks. that now bears his name. Tel (02) 9240 8680. @ Sydney further seven bays were built opening hours and other practical
to 1844 has a rare history of Map 1 B2. Tel (02) 9245 2400. Cadman married Elizabeth Explorer, 431, 432, 433, 434. between 1854 and 1861. The
continuous domestic @ 431, 432, 433, 434, Sydney Mortimer in 1830, another  Circular Quay. Open 10am–5pm full row of storehouses were
occupancy from the 1840s Explorer. Open 10am–5pm daily ex-convict who was sentenced daily. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. 7 finally completed in 1890,
through to 1990. It is now a (to 9pm Thu). Closed 25 Dec. to seven years’ transportation ∑ therocks.com.au including a brick upper storey. information are provided for each
museum examining the 7 8 ∑ mca.com.au for the theft of one hairbrush. Part of the old sea wall and 11 The historic Hero of Waterloo Inn, built in
living conditions of its former They lived in the cottage until This fascinating museum, in of the original stores are still the 19th century
inhabitants. Rather than When Sydney art collector John 1845. Cadman’s Cottage was a restored 1850s sandstone standing. The pulleys that were
re-creating a single period, the Power died in 1943, he left his built on the foreshore of coach house, is home to used to raise cargo from the 8Hero of Waterloo entry. The key to all the symbols
museum retains the renovations entire collection and a financial Sydney Harbour. Now, as a unique collection of wharf can be seen near the top 81 Lower Fort St, The Rocks. Map 1 A2.
carried out by different tenants. bequest to the University of a result of successive land archaeological artifacts and of the preserved buildings. Tel (02) 9252 4553. @ 431, 432, 433,
Built for Edward and Mary Riley, Sydney. In 1991 the collection, reclamations, it is set well images that detail the story The area fell into disrepair 434. Open 10am–11:30pm Mon–Wed,
who arrived from Ireland with which by then included back from the water’s edge. of The Rocks from the pre- during the first half of the 10am–midnight Thu–Sat, 10am–10pm used in the information block is
their niece Susannah in 1838, European days to the present. 20th century. However, in Sun. Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec.
these houses have basement There are four permanent the 1970s the Sydney Cove 7 limited.
kitchens and backyard exhibitions which are highly Redevelopment Authority shown on the back flap.
outhouses. Piped water and interactive, making use of finalized plans and began This picturesque old inn is
sewerage were probably added touch screens and audio and renovating the site. Today the especially welcoming in the
by the mid-1850s. visual technology. Some of bond stores contain a range of winter with its log fires.
the artifacts were found at
The terrace escaped the
Built in 1844, this was a
fine restaurants catering to all
wholesale demolitions that the archaeological site on tastes, from contemporary favourite drinking place for the
occurred after the outbreak Cumberland Street. Australian to Chinese and nearby garrison’s soldiers. Some
of bubonic plague in 1900, as The Rocks Discovery Italian. Their virtually sea captains were said to use
well as later clearings of land Museum has been developed unimpeded views across the hotel to recruit. Patrons who
to make way for the Sydney in close consultation with Circular Quay towards the drank too much were pushed
Harbour Bridge (see pp84–5) and local Aboriginal groups, so Sydney Opera House (see pp88– into the cellars via a trapdoor.
the Cahill Expressway. In the that their story of the area is 9) and Sydney Harbour Bridge Tunnels then led to the wharves
1970s it was saved once again The Art Deco-style Museum of Contemporary Art, with the adjoining modern extension properly told. (see pp84–5) make these and on to waiting ships.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp482–3 and pp504–7