Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Australia

How t o use t H is guide  7
SOUTH A USTR ALIA  345
ADELAIDE AND
THE SOUTHEAST
The Southeast is a region rich with pine forests, wineries Australia Area by Area
and a spectacular coastline. The state capital, Adelaide,
is a vibrant city, whose surrounding hills abound with
vineyards from the Barossa to McLaren Vale. To the east,
the great Murray River meanders from the Victoria border Apart from Sydney, Australia has been
down to the Southern Ocean. Just off the Fleurieu Peninsula
lies Kangaroo Island, a haven for wildlife. Introduction
Home to Aborigines for more than of motor vehicles and household divided into seven chapters. Within
50,000 years, this region was settled by appliances. Adelaide still has a focus 1The landscape, history
Europeans in 1836 when Governor John on high technology.
Hindmarsh proclaimed the area a British South Australia has always had a the chapters the regions are further
colony. William Light, the Surveyor General, tradition of tolerance. Many of the first and character of each
chose the site of the city of Adelaide. settlers were non-conformists from Great
The settlement was based on a theory Britain seeking a more open society. divided into 16 areas. The most
of free colonization funded solely by land Other early migrants included Lutherans region is described here,
sales, and no convicts were transported escaping persecution in Germany. They
here. Elegant Adelaide was carefully settled in Hahndorf and the Barossa, interesting towns and places to visit
planned by Colonel Light: its ordered where they established a wine industry. showing how the area
grid pattern, centred on pretty squares With high rainfall and irrigated by
and gardens, is surrounded by parkland. the Murray River, the region is the most are numbered on an Regional Map at
Wealth from agriculture and mining paid fertile in the state. The coastline includes has developed over the
for many of Adelaide’s fine Victorian the Fleurieu Peninsula and the beautiful
buildings. In the mid-20th century, Coorong National Park. Offshore,
the city established a significant Kangaroo Island has stunning scenery centuries and what it the beginning of each chapter.
manufacturing industry, in particular and bountiful native wildlife.
offers to the visitor today.
346  SOUTH A USTR ALIA ADELAIDE AND THE SOUTHEAST  347
Each area of Australia can be
Exploring Adelaide and the Southeast
Adelaide and the Southeast area encompass the most bountiful and identified quickly by its own colour
productive regions of South Australia. Adelaide, the state’s capital city
Port and sherry casks at a winery in the Barossa
and the most obvious base for exploring the region, lies on a
Evening falls on the vineyards of the Barossa Morgan MURRAY RIVER coding, which is shown on the
flat plain between the Mount Lofty Ranges and the popular Riverton Waikerie VE V Renmark
white sandy beaches of Gulf St Vincent, to the east of Cape Port Pirie
Jervis. The city itself is green and elegant, with many historic Kapunda Blanchetown Barmera Murray River Berri Mildura inside front cover.
sites to explore. To the northeast, beyond the Adelaide Hills, National Park
are quaint 19th-century villages and the many wineries of Tanunda Angaston Loxton
the Barossa. To the east and south lie Australia’s largest Gawler THE BAROSSA Swan Reach
river, the Murray River, and the rolling hills of the Springton Alawoona
Fleurieu Peninsula. Further to the southeast the beauty Gulf St GORGE BIRDWOOD
Vincent
of the coastal Coorong National Park and the Southern WILDLIFE PARK Sandalwood
Ocean coastline contrasts with the flat, agricultural ADELAIDE MOUNT Mannum
area inland. Offshore lies the natural splendour of LOFTY
Kangaroo Island, with its abundance of native HAHNDORF Karoonda
wildlife and striking rock formations. BELAIR NATIONAL PARK Murray Bridge
Port Noarlunga Pinnaroo Regional Map
McLaren Vale STRATHALBYN Ouyen Murray River winding between Swan Reach and
Peake Lameroo Walker Flat
Fl Fl F e le l urieu Pe Pe P ninsula la l Goolwa Alexandrina Getting Around 2This shows the main road
Lake
Cape Jervis Victor Port
Kingscote Harbor Elliot Coonalpyn Ngarkat The inner city of Adelaide is best explored
Meningie Conservation
Penneshaw Park on foot; it is compact, well laid out and
Parndana American River Limestone DUKES flat. There is a public transport system of network and gives an
K A N G A R O O C mostly buses, and some trains, throughout
Flinders Chase I S L A N D Co Cooro ro r ng Tintinara HIGHWAY W WA the metropolitan area, although services
National Park n are often restricted at weekends. However,
ng
Keith for those with a car, the city’s roads are illustrated overview of the
Cape du Couedic N good and the traffic generally light.
Nati t
Bordertown Outside Adelaide, public transport is very
Sights at a Glance PRINCES Willalooka limited, although coach tours are available whole area. All interesting
Coast
National
to most areas. A car provides the most
1 Adelaide pp348–53 9 Mount Gambier Mundulla Horsham efficient means of exploring the region,
2 Belair National Park 0 Penola P Park r Park with a network of high-standard roads
3 Gorge Wildlife Park q Naracoorte Caves HIGHWAY W WA and highways. In addition, a domestic air
National Park
4 Hahndorf w Murray River Lacepede Padthaway service operates between Adelaide and places to visit are numbered
5 Strathalbyn Bay RIDDOCH HIGHWAY Mount Gambier. Kangaroo Island is
6 Mount Lofty Tour serviced by air from Adelaide and also by
7 Birdwood Kingston SE W WA ferry from Cape Jervis. The predominantly
8 Kangaroo Island e The Barossa Naracoorte flat landscape also makes this a popular and there are also useful tips
NARACOORTE CAVES area for cyclists and walkers.
NATIONAL PARK
Robe Bool
Lagoon on getting around the region.
Game Reserve Key
Furner PENOLA Highway
Major road
Beachport
Minor road
Millicent Scenic route
Tantanoola
Main railway
MOUNT Minor railway
GAMBIER
State border
Portland
Port MacDonnell
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
St Peter’s Anglican Cathedral, seen across Adelaide’s parkland
For additional map symbols see back flap THE SOUTHEAST  357
native Australian species, of the city from the modern
including kangaroos, dingos, lookout at the summit, where
wombats, wallabies and fruit there is also an interpretive centre.
bats. There are also birds – The hills are dotted with grand
from ostriches to fairy wrens – summer houses to which
and a colony of free-flying Adelaide citizens retreat during
rainbow lorikeets. For those the summer heat.
who prefer their animals Just below the summit is the
Cleland W
Cleland W
crawling or swimming, there Cleland Wildlife Park where ildlife Park where ildlife Park
is a reptile house. The most visitors can stroll among the
popular residents of the park, Nineteenth-century mill in the historic town of Hahndorf kangaroos and emus, have a
Detailed Information Cuddling sessions with these Just outside Hahndorf is The renowned as one of the or walk through the aviary
however, are the koalas.
photograph taken with a koala
friendly marsupials are held
to observe native birds at
three times daily (11:30am, Cedars, the former home of earliest wine-growing regions close quarters.
1:30pm and 3:30pm, subject
3All the important towns 2Belair days of extreme fire danger. to weather conditions). landscape artist, the late Sir Hans produced here since the 1850s. of here, Mount Lofty Botanic
in Australia; wine has been
About 1.5 km (1 mile) south
South Australia’s best-known
Old Government House in Belair National Park
The park also offers a kiosk, a
Gardens feature temperate-
Heysen (see p38). Both his home
National Park
and his studio are open to the
climate plants such as rhodo-
Within the park lies Old
souvenir shop, picnic areas
and other places to visit are Tel (08) 8278 5477. £ from Adelaide. Government House. Built in and free gas BBQs. public. South of the town is Nixon’s dendrons and magnolias.
Mill, a stone mill built in 1842.
1859 as the governor’s summer
Open 8am–sunset daily. Closed 25 Dec.
residence, it offers a glimpse
O Cleland Wildlife Park
& for cars only. 7 limited.
∑ environment.sa.gov.au of the lifestyle enjoyed by the P The Cedars 365 Mount Lofty Summit Rd, Crafters.
described individually. They Established in 1891, Belair is the colonial gentry. 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun & public hols. daily. Closed 25 Dec. & 8 7 =
Heysen Rd. Tel (08) 8388 7277. Open
Tel (08) 8339 2444. Open 9:30am–5pm
eighth-oldest national park in
Closed Good Fri, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
- ∑ environment.sa.gov.au
P Old Government House
∑ hansheysen.com.au
the world. Only 9 km (5 miles)
Belair National Park. Tel (08) 8278
are listed in order, following from Adelaide, it is one of the 5477. Open 1–4pm Sun & public hols. 5Strathalbyn 7Birdwood
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. &
most popular parks in South
* 1,300. n FJ Café, Shannon St
Australia. Tennis courts and
(08) 8568 5577.
pavilions are available for hire
* 6,000. @ n Railway Station,
the numbering on the Regional and there are picnic facilities 3Gorge South Terrace 1300 007 842. Nestled in the Adelaide Hills is
Wildlife Park
the quiet little town of Birdwood.
throughout the park. Visitors
The designated heritage town
In the 1850s, wheat was milled
can meander through the tall
8389 2206. @ Adelaide. Open 9am–
eucalypt forests and cool Redden Drive, Cudlee Creek. Tel (08) of Strathalbyn was originally in the town and the old wheat
Map. Within each town or city, valleys, and see kangaroos, 5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec. & = settled by Scottish immigrants St Andrew’s Church, Strathalbyn mill now houses Birdwood’s most
in 1839. Links with its Scottish
∑ gorgewildlifepark.com.au
famous asset: the country’s
emus, echidnas and other
6Mount Lofty
native wildlife.
largest collection of vintage,
ancestry can still be seen
In spring, many native plants Situated on 5.5 ha (14 acres) today in much of the town’s @ Mount Lofty Summit Rd. n Mount veteran and classic motor cars,
there is detailed information bloom. The park is closed of land, Gorge Wildlife Park A koala at Gorge Widlife Park architecture, which is reminis- Lofty Summit Information Centre (08) trucks and motorbikes. The
is home to an abundance of
cent of small highland towns
occasionally in summer on
National Motor Museum has
4Hahndorf
8370 1054. = - The Summit Open
in Scotland.
more than 300 on display and is
Situated on the banks of 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–5pm Sat considered to be one of the best
* 1,800. @ from Adelaide. n 68
on important buildings and Mount Barker Rd (08) 8388 1185. the Angas River, Strathalbyn The hills of the Mount Lofty collections of its kind in the world.
& Sun. 0 ∑ mtloftysummit.com
is dominated by St Andrew’s
∑ hahndorfsa.org.au
Ranges form the backdrop to
Church with its sturdy tower.
E National Motor Museum
Shannon St. Tel (08) 8568 4000. Open
other sights. Hahndorf is the oldest surviving A number of original buildings Adelaide. The highest point, 10am–5pm daily. Closed 25 Dec. &
German settlement in Australia.
Mount Lofty, reaches 727 m
have been preserved. The police
station, built in 1858, and the
7 ∑ motor.history.sa.gov.au
The first settlers arrived in 1838
(2,385 ft) and offers a fine view
aboard the Zebra under the
house the National Trust
command of Captain Dirk Hahn. 1865 courthouse together
Escaping religious persecution Museum. The prominent two-
in their homeland, they settled storey London House, built as a
in the Adelaide Hills and general store in 1867, has, like a
established Hahndorf (Hahn’s number of buildings in or near
Village), a German-style town. the High Street, found a new
The tree-lined main street
use as an antiques store. As
has many examples of classic in many country towns in
German architecture, such as Australia, the hotels and banks
houses with fachwerk timber fachwerk timber fachwerk are also architectural reminders
framing filled in with wattle and of the past. About 16 km (10
daub, or brick. Visitors can take miles) southeast of Strathalbyn,
a stroll around the town and on the banks of the Bremer
enjoy its historic atmosphere. River, is Langhorne Creek, Hand-feeding kangaroos at Cleland Wildlife Park, Mount Lofty
352  SOUTH A USTR ALIA For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp482–97 and pp504–35
353
ADELAIDE 
Ayers House . State Dining Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sir Henry loved to
Ayers House is one of the best examples of colonial dinners were often held Practical Information
entertain, and lavish
Regency architecture in Australia. From 1855 until here. It boasts a hand- 288 North Terrace, Adelaide. For all the top sights, a visitors’ checklist
Tel (08) 8223 1234.
his death in 1897, it was the home of Sir Henry painted ceiling, grained Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri;
Ayers, a former Premier of South Australia and an woodwork and the 1–4pm Sat, Sun & public hols.
influential businessman. The original house was original gas-lamp Closed Mon, Good Fri, 25 Dec. provides the practical information needed
chandeliers.
quite simple but was expanded over the years with & 8 = 7 ground floor only.
the growing status and wealth of its owner. The Transport
final form of this elegant mansion is due largely to to plan your visit.
@ 99c.
the noted colonial architect Sir George Strickland
Kingston. The restored house is now run by the Front of the house viewed from North Terrace
National Trust and also incorporates a function
centre. The oldest section is open to the public and
houses a fine collection of Victorian furniture,
furnishings, memorabilia and art.
Australia’s Top Sights
4Historic buildings are dissected
to reveal their interiors; museums
. Bedroom
The main bedroom has been carefully
restored to its late-Victorian style.
Its authentic furnishings reflect the and galleries have colour-coded
prosperity brought by South
Australia’s rich mining
discoveries in the 1870s. floorplans; the national parks have
KEY
1 The Library, furnished with maps showing facilities and trails.
a long dining table, can be hired
for functions.
2 Slate roof
3 The Conservatory is based Front entrance Major towns have maps, with
around the original stables and
coachhouse. Now a function centre,
the whole area has been flooded with
light by the addition of a glass roof. The story of Sir Henry Ayers sights picked out and described.
4 Local bluestone was used in Sir Henry Ayers (1821–97) was born in
constructing the house, as with Hampshire, England, the son of a dock
many 19th-century Adelaide houses. worker. He married in 1840 and, a month
The north façade faces onto North later, emigrated with his bride to South
Terrace, one of the city’s main streets Australia. After working briefly as a clerk,
(see pp348–9). Ayers made his fortune in the state’s
5 Veranda’s original chequered new copper mines. Entering politics in
tile flooring 1857, he was appointed South Australia’s
6 The family drawing room Ballroom Premier seven times between 1863 Statesman and businessman,
and 1873, and was President of the
along with the adjacent family dining from the 1870s. It is likely that it was Legislative Council, 1881–93. Among Sir Henry Ayers
This intricately decorated cornice dates
room, had test strips removed from
its walls and ceiling to uncover some painted by Charles Gow, an employee many causes, he supported exploration of the interior (Ayers Rock,
stunning original decoration. These of the Scottish firm of Lyon and Cottier, now Uluru, was named after him), but is chiefly remembered for Story boxes explore
rooms have now been fully restored. who is believed to have undertaken his prominent role in the development of South Australia.
extensive work at the house.
specific subjects further.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp482–97 and pp504–35