Page 46 - Esquire (November 2019)

the Big Bite

D R I N K S

NEW FIZZ ON

THE BLOCK

There seems to be an endless
torrent of spiked seltzers

these days. So we enlisted the

coolest sommelier we
know to choose the best.

How do you choose a favorite spiked seltzer, an in-
nocuously flavored low-carb beverage? “It’s as hard
as choosing the best dictator,” says Victoria James, who
in 2012, at the age of 21, became America’s youngest
sommelier and is now beverage director of Cote in New Wild Basin Melon Basil
York City. “I grew up with white zinfandel and Zima,” Made by Oskar Blues, a brewery best known for some
she admits. “No one’s first taste of blues is like Grand very stellar beers. “Most spiked seltzers taste like ar-
Cru Burgundy.” So in the meantime, there’s always tificial fruit bombs, but this has a weird savory ele-
White Claw. We asked James to taste-test about three ment, like peanut or sesame oil. This would be great
dozen flavors of spiked seltzers. Here are her favorites. with pad thai.”

White Claw Natural Lime Truly Orange
In the world of spiked seltzer, Claw is king. And of the “I love that Emergen-C smell, because I associate it
brand’s six varieties, there was one clear winner. “Lime with something that I drink after a hangover that will
was the least intrusive,” James says. “It has an almost make me well.”
Gatorade-like aftertaste. And that initial rubbery smell
is nostalgic—like the ball pit at McDonald’s.” Lifted Libations Grapefruit Vodka Soda
Okay, we’re sort of cheating here. This isn’t a spiked
Crook & Marker Tangerine seltzer but rather a canned vodka soda. “This is bet-
At first, coconut pineapple was the front-runner, only ter, as it’s a pure distillate and soda and still only has Tray by Hermès.
to be beaten out by tangerine. “It’s an alternative to 96 calories. It has a vodka aftertaste, but I almost pre-
orange soda but a little healthier.” fer that, because it’s the enemy you know.”

42 November 2019_Esquire photograph: Jeffrey Westbrook