Page 48 - Esquire (November 2019)
P. 48
the Big Bite
F O O D
CANCEL
TURKEY DAY
At home, at least. And
rediscover the joy
of Thanksgiving...at a restaurant.
By Jeff Gordinier
Maybe you’re looking forward to it.
Maybe when you hear the word Thanksgiving,
your nostrils fill with the summoned scents of rose-
mary and sage, and you smile inwardly as you imagine
bowls of cranberry sauce and boats of gravy and plat-
ters of poultry being ferried around the table from one
generation to the next, with gentle elders and eager
cherubim joining hands in a fellowship of food. Nos-
talgia for the most gluttonous of Thursdays is prac-
tically a national birthright, which means that com-
plaining about our collective rite of homecoming is
like committing an act of American heresy.
44 November 2019_Esquire illustration: C. J. Robinson
