Page 153 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Hpa-an and around SoutheaStern MyanMar 151
Pagoda, 1.5km due east of the market, for beautiful views over ranks of palm trees
to the shimmering sea – now almost 16km to the west. The view is particularly
rewarding at dawn and dusk.
arrIVaL anD DeParture thaton
By train Thaton’s railway station is a short walk west of By pick-up Frequent pick-ups to Hpa-An (1hr) and
the market, with tickets going on sale just before each Mawlamyine (2hr) leave regularly from the car park
departure. outside Shwe Sar Yan during daylight hours, with the last
Destinations Bago (3 daily; 5hr); Kyaikhto (3 daily; one leaving around 4pm. Both destinations cost K1500, or
2hr); Mawlamyine (3 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr); Yangon K4000 if you want to sit up front. There are also a few pick-
(3 daily; 7–8hr). ups to Kyaikhto (2hr 30min; K2000).
aCCoMMoDatIon
Thuwunnabumi Hotel 110 cnr Myathapaik Pagoda beware of creeping prices as it becomes more established).
Rd & Hospital St T057 40932, Wthuwunnabumihotel The rooms are cool and calm, and the gnome-like statues
.com. Only a month old at the time of research, this that fill the gardens are a welcome, if slightly bizarre, 3
business-class hotel is excellent value for money (but change from the Buddha statues everywhere else. $35
eatInG
Aung Shwe Sar Yan Rd. This typical Burmese restaurant, First Café Mountain Mya Thapaint Pagoda Rd
just north of Shwe Sar Yan’s north gate, is the most T09 872 0904. On the road towards hilltop pagoda Mya
popular in a small row of similar restaurants serving up Thapaint, this big thatched-roof café has something of a
excellent curries and mounds of rice. Vegetarian options beach shack vibe, and is popular with local young people
are available. If you have trouble finding it, look out for and Thaton’s businessmen. It produces good Burmese
the lime-green sign in Burmese. Mains K1000–1500. curries, Chinese dishes plus real coffee and juices. A curry
Daily 8am–7pm. meal costs around K3000. Daily 9am–9pm.

Hpa-An and around

Just outside HPA-AN, the capital of Kayin State, a sheer limestone ridge pokes through
the surrounding brilliant green rice paddies, imbuing the landscape with a kind of
dramatic beauty. There’s not much to see in the understated town itself, although the
markets are bustling and Shweyinhmyaw Paya boasts wonderful views of the Thanlyin
River sliding past. The main attraction here is the opportunity to get out into the
countryside, where it’s possible to poke around caves, climb up jungle-draped Mount
Zwegabin and swim in spring-fed pools. Kyauk Kalat Pagoda, perched on a vertiginous
finger of rock, will amaze even those suffering from pagoda overexposure, and there are
numerous Kayin villages to explore as well. If you visit in December or January, you
may catch the lively Kayin New Year celebrations, when Hpa-An hosts dancing and
kickboxing competitions.
Many people come here for a few days and end up staying longer, and the town is fast
becoming a favourite among southern Myanmar’s backpackers. When you do manage
to tear yourself away, you’ll have the fun option of catching a riverboat down the
Thanlyin to Mawlamyine (see box, p.162).

Shweyinhmyaw Paya
• Thida St • Daily 5am–10pm • Free
For the best views of the Thanlyin River and Mount Hpar-Pu’s distinctive silhouette
(see p.152), head down to the petite Shweyinhmyaw Paya at dusk to watch the sun set
over the riverbank. The pagoda is also home to a statue of a giant green frog (frogs are
an important symbol for the Kayin) and a naga – a reference to the story behind

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