Page 158 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

156 SoutheaStern MyanMar Hpa-an and around
squeeze into your tuk-tuk, the cheaper it will be – K5000 Brothers‘ manager, La Shu, is an excellent guide, and
each is usual. Be aware that few of the drivers speak a day scooting around on the back of his motorbike will
English. If you would like an English tour, the Soe cost around K15,000.
aCCoMMoDatIon
Hotel Gabbana B.E.H.S St T058 22425, Whpa Taken altogether, it’s still one of the better-value hotels in
-anhotelgabbana.com; map p.152. The most upmarket this price range. $12
hotel in the town centre, the Gabbana offers a smooth stay ★ Soe Brothers Guesthouse 2/146 Thitsa St T058
in its brightly painted rooms, which have purple sashes on 21372, Ehsoebrothers05821372@gmail.com; map
the beds and decent bathrooms. It’s a 5min walk from the p.152. The rooms are decent in this long-time budget
town centre, which gives it the advantage of being quieter favourite – small, but cool and clean. The main draws
than most. $55 are the staff, who are experts at dealing with travellers’
★ Galaxy Motel 2/146 Cnr Thisar Rd & Thida St T058 needs, and the common areas that add to the fun and
21347; map p.152. At this wonderfully warm and friendly atmosphere. Single rooms start at just $7,
welcoming town-centre hotel it’s all about the staff, and in doubles with shared bathrooms are $18 and there are
3 particular the manageress, Kim – where she gets the also some good doubles with attached bathrooms and
energy to keep smiling and answering the same old plenty of space for $25. In high season there’s also a
questions time and again about bus times is beyond us. The small sleeping-mat dormitory upstairs, but this is only in
rooms themselves are carpeted, well maintained and have use when all other rooms are full. No breakfast. Dorms
boiling hot water in the bathrooms. Do try and avoid the $5, doubles $18
noisier rooms facing the road. $22 Than Lwin Pyar Guesthouse Thida St T058 21513;
Parami Motel Pagoda Rd T058 21647; map p.152. map p.152. You won’t be able to miss this intense purple
Close to the centre of town, Parami has pleasant staff, and guesthouse, and that’s no bad thing because it’s an
its best rooms ($30) are spacious and have high ceilings appealing backpacker hotel. Rooms are clean, although the
– those on upper floors have wonderful views over cheapest are mere cells that share bathrooms (K13,000),
Hpa-An to Mount Zwegabin. The cheaper rooms are and there’s a great little roof terrace and plenty of traveller
hardly the stuff of dreams – or not good dreams, anyway. services on offer. K18,000
eatInG
Hpa-An’s markets are the most interesting and low-cost places to eat, although the offerings at both the morning and
night markets are somewhat noodle-centric. Sweet-toothed travellers should seek out bein moun – crispy rice-flour
pancakes smeared with jaggery syrup and sprinkled with coconut shreds.
Famous Coffee & Bakery Bogyoke Rd; map p.152. p.152. Serving Burmese food with Indian undertones, as
With freshly squeezed juices, proper coffee (that actually well as particularly tasty soups and salads, Shwe Myint Mo
has a kick to it) and good pastries (around K500–1500), cooks up meals accompanied by numerous enticing side
this a/c café is the place to come for a more familiar home- dishes. The tomato salad, slathered with peanut sauce, is
from-home breakfast experience. It’s just a shame about simply superb. Plan on spending K2500 for a full meal.
the deafening road noise. Daily 7am–9.30pm. Daily 7am–9pm.
★ San Ma Tu Bogyoke Rd T058 21802; map p.152. Thai Village Restaurant Near Yathepyan Cave T09
This place has a well-deserved reputation for great 7936 28757; map p.154. It’s a little touristy, but
Burmese food, which means it’s often full of foreigners. nevertheless the Thai Village is the best place to stop for a
Choose a vegetarian (K500) or meat (from K1500) curry pleasant lunch in a garden setting (mains K3000–4000)
from their wide selection, and it will be served with at least while touring the caves and temples around Hpa-An. Staff
ten diverse and tasty side dishes, soup and tea. Rice is an will carefully explain exactly what each dish is. If you’re
additional K500. Daily 10am–9pm. having trouble finding it, look for the odd signs of a
Shwe Htone Maung School Rd; map p.152. This stereotypical Mexican man pointing off the main road, and
bustling teahouse serves up delicious bowls of noodles, hot then turn off and follow the wall. Daily 8am–10pm.
drinks, juices and sinful fried snacks throughout the day – White Bogyoke St; map p.152. This scruffy but charming
prepare to become addicted to the banana fritters they teahouse serves up great sugar parathas and crispy naan
serve at breakfast. English menu available. Daily bread all day long. They also do a wonderful samosa thouq,
6am–10pm. but you’ll need to get here early to sample it before they
★ Shwe Myint Mo 2 Pagoda Rd T058 21362; map run out. Daily 6am–10pm.
FROM TOP CRAFTING A BANANA-LEAF HAT, BILU KYUN (P.164); KYAIK PUN, BAGO (P.146) >

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