Page 228 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

226 BAGAN AND AROUND BAGAN
5 Thazin Garden Hotel 22 Thazin Rd T01 245 413, Thurizza Bagal Thiri Marlar St T061 65229,
Wthazingarden.com; map p.224. If you don’t mind the Ethirimarlarhotelbagan@gmail.com; map p.224. One
overdose of tack, with gold-painted “royal” bed heads and of the best deals in New Bagan, set around a pretty little
bathrooms coated in marble, then this is one of New garden-patio and offering a genuine touch of class at
Bagan’s better options. It’s in a very peaceful location on sensible rates. Standard rooms are quiet, clean and nicely
the edge of town, set around a square of lush garden. furnished, while superior rooms ($60) are well decorated
Rooms come with either garden or temple views. Decent and have wooden floors and attractive bathrooms. Used to
value. $125 be known as the Thiri Marlar Hotel. $38
EATING
There’s a decent spread of places to eat throughout Bagan, although most are fairly humdrum, offering generic menus of
pseudo-Western, sort-of Thai, insipid Burmese and so-so Chinese, often at above-average prices. Look out, though, for the
delicious tamarind flakes wrapped in paper, a local speciality, which are served free at many places after meals as a
digestive aid. The main cluster of restaurants is in Nyaung U along Thiripyitsaya 4 St (aka “Restaurant Row”), with further
places spread along Main Rd and down into the nearby village of Wet Kyi Inn. In New Bagan, a bunch of similar-style
places flanks the roundabout right in the middle of town about halfway up Kayay St, while in Old Bagan there’s a fun little
group of vegetarian-leaning restaurants near Tharaba Gate. There are no real Western-style bars, although many of the
restaurants are also nice places to drink.

NYAUNG U secondi, plus excellent salads – the insalata Siciliana is a
Aroma 2 Thiripyitsaya 4 St T09 204 2630; map p.208. joy. Daily 11.30am–9.30pm.
This place specializes in Indian food, with seating on a large Restaurant Leo Thiripyitsaya 4 St T09 402 559 018;
terrace that the many lanterns fail to fully illuminate. Food is map p.208. Leo’s is a small, open-fronted, lime-green place
reasonable enough and meals come with a nice spread of that’s the current flavour of the day with travellers. Diners
home-made chutneys (including an excellent tamarind eat surrounded by potted plants and art, which helps give a
pickle). They proudly advertise their lack of wi-fi and relaxed vibe. The menu is limited but very well chosen and
suggest that you pretend it’s 1995 and talk instead – wise presented, and includes a selection of Thai and Myanmar
words, indeed. Meat mains K5000–6000, vegetarian mains curries, sandwiches and pasta dishes. Mains K4000–5000.
K2500–3500. Daily 11am–3pm & 6–10pm. Daily 10am–10pm.
Bagan Zay Thiripyitsaya 4 St T06 1246 2057; map ★ Sanon Training Restaurant Pyu Saw Hti St T09
p.208. With claret-coloured curtains and a blushing red 451 951 950, Wsanon-restaurant.org; map p.208.
bar, this restaurant doesn’t just have the looks to make it A garden restaurant decorated with tear-shaped lamps, the
stand out from the pack but the food as well, which is Sanon Training Restaurant is part of a project in which
described as modern Myanmar cuisine and includes dishes disadvantaged local youths are trained in the business of
such as grilled bullfish filets with lentil galettes (mains high-end catering – and the results are outstanding.
K4000–6000). Daily 9.30am–11pm. A blend of modern Myanmar and Western cuisine results in
Bibo Off Thiripyitsaya 4 St T09 402 555 241; map dishes such as roast duck with pumpkin and bean salad,
p.208. The super-friendly service from owner Thant Zaw fiercely fiery river prawns, beer-battered fish and Irrawaddy
Aung and his wife makes eating here a real pleasure. The fish cakes with glass noodles. Once you’re done with that
menu covers Myanmar salads, soups and curries, plus a few lot, then take our advice and finish with a lime mousse.
Western dishes and a good selection of Thai curries and Daily specials are K5500. Mains K4000–6000. Daily
soups (mains K3000–5000) – not terribly authentic, but 11am–10pm.
tasty enough, and competitively priced. Drinks include a ★ Weather Spoon’s Bagan Thiripyitsaya 4 St T09
good cocktail selection (K2000–3000 each), which are 4309 2640; map p.208. This unpretentious and ever busy
incredibly cheap during the two-for-one happy hour little café is one of the better places to eat in Bagan (and
(5.30–7.30pm). Sometimes closes early, when the last much better than the British chain whose name the owner
customers leave. Daily 8am–9pm. has adopted). The superb and entirely authentic Thai
★ La Terrazze Thiripyitsaya 4 St T09 259 010 913; cuisine (mains K3000–4000) would put many a Bangkok
map p.208. If you’re hankering after olive oil, balsamic restaurant to shame, while the Western food, including
vinegar, parmesan, pancetta and home-baked foccacia, excellent burgers (K4500), is equally good. There’s also an
head for this impressive Mediterranean-flavoured above-average selection of international vegetarian dishes
restaurant, which is one of the more upmarket places to eat plus assorted Chinese fare, all at super-competitive prices.
in Bagan. The well-chosen menu (mains K7000–9000) Also has what’s likely to be the best wi-fi connection in
includes risotto, lasagne and a couple of fish and meat Bagan. Daily 9am–10pm.