Page 229 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

BAGAN BAGAN AND AROUND 227
OLD BAGAN NEW BAGAN 5
Golden Myanmar Near Tharaba Gate, opposite Pyi Yar; La Pizza 2 Kayay St; map p.224. Colourful Pathein
map pp.204–205. A haven of local-style dining amid umbrellas welcome you to this very popular pizza restaurant
touristy restaurants that surround it on all sides. There’s no (mains K7000–11,000) right in the centre of town. Among
menu, but set meals (K4000) offer a huge spread of fifteen the standard pizza toppings that can be found in any
or so dishes including pork, chicken, beef and fish and pizzeria anywhere on the planet, they have a few local
come with assorted vegetable sides (and condiments) such specials like tea-leaf pizza. Daily 11.30am–9.30pm.
as tasty tofu, crunchy tea-leaf salad and other Burmese Miss TT 3rd St; map p.224. A cute little timber-lined,
delicacies. Daily 10am–8.30pm. flower-filled café serving caffeine boosts such as espressos
The Moon Near Tharaba Gate T09 4301 2411; map and cappuccinos as well as ice creams to soothe on a hot
pp.204–205. The original of the cluster of homespun little day. Coffees from K1000. Daily 8am–8pm.
vegetarian cafés just outside Tharaba Gate. The veg-only San Carlo 3rd St T061 65253; map p.224. Above-
menu (mains K2500–3500) features all sorts of Asian and average Western food from an Italian-trained Burmese
Western options, including soups, salads, burgers, curries chef, including a big selection of pizza and home-made
and stir-fries – anything from mung bean soup and pasta (K3500–5000) with proper mozzarella, parmesan,
gazpacho through to deep-fried gourd, tamarind-leaf curry salami and so on. The dining room is covered floor to ceiling
and papaya soup with yoghurt. The daily specials are in paintings depicting local scenes. Daily 8am–10pm.
chalked up on the blackboard. Daily 9am–9.30pm. ★ Star Beam Near New Bagan Market, behind NLD
Star Beam Bistro Near Tharaba Gate, close to The Party Office T09 401 523 810; map p.224.
Moon café; map pp.204–205. The original branch of this Internationally trained chef Myo Myint turns out a short
well-regarded local restaurant chain, although most but delicious menu (mains K3500–6000) of superior local
people now go to their newly opened premises in New and international dishes, including Rakhine fish and
Bagan (see opposite); this one has become more of a café Myanmar prawn curries alongside a few Western dishes –
than a restaurant. Serves sandwiches, snacks and good the freshly baked bread given out with the meals is a tasty
coffee. Daily 11am–9pm. touch. Daily 11am–9pm.
SHOPPING
There are plenty of shops in Bagan, though there are few places that really get the pulse racing. Lacquerware is the main
local craft, particularly in Myinkaba village, which is stuffed to the gills with lacquer workshops and showrooms. There are
a few woodcarving shops in Nyaung U along Thiripyitsaya 4 St. Bookshops are sadly rare, but some of the restaurants and
guesthouses offer book swaps.
Golden Cuckoo Myinkaba village (follow the dirt road K10,000) are displayed in the showroom at the front, while
down the right-hand side of the Manuha Paya) T061 the top-quality fourteen-layer pieces are kept in two rooms
65156; map pp.204–205. The most enjoyable of at the back (look out for the lacquer iPhone cover,
Myinkaba’s many lacquerware workshops, run by the same motorbike helmet and guitar). Daily 7.30am–7.30pm.
family for four generations and offering absorbing Nanda Puppet and Gift Nanda Restaurant, Main
workshop tours without any sales patter or pressure to buy. Rd, Wet Kyi Inn T061 60790; map pp.204–205. Small
Cheaper items (with seven layers of lacquer; from around selection of attractive traditional wooden puppets, plus

CULTURAL SHOWS
Several places around Bagan run nightly cultural shows featuring traditional puppets and/or
dancing.
Amata Boutique House Thiripyitsaya Quarter, in season ($24 with buffet or $10 entrance plus à la carte
New Bagan T061 65099, Wamatabtqhouse.com. meal), but these had stopped at the time of research.
Performances nightly from Oct to March starting with a They’re likely to start again, so it’s worth checking.
30min puppet show followed by an hour of traditional Nanda Restaurant Bagan–Chauk Rd, Wet Kyi Inn
Shan and Karen dancing. Free with a meal in the T061 60790. Enjoyable 40min puppet shows, free
restaurant (with Asian mains for around K6000–7000). with a drink or meal at the restaurant (although the
Daily 7–8.30pm. pedestrian Chinese food is expensive, with mains at
Bagan Golden Palace Main Rd, Old Bagan. In the around K5500–7000). Shows are put on whenever a
past this place staged nightly dance shows with dinner tour group turns up to eat (and that’s most lunch times).