Page 246 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

244 INLE LAKE AND THE EAST KALAW AND AROUND
down into the valley below. Rooms themselves are comfy house straight out of darkest Surrey plus a couple of new
but rather plain, although the price is fair, and each comes buildings sympathetically designed in keeping with the
original, all wrapped up in picture-perfect terraced
with a little veranda from which to enjoy the fine views. $35
Pine Breeze Thittaw Rd T081 50459, Epinebreeze gardens. Rooms in the new buildings are smartly furnished
hotel@gmail.com. Among the town’s newer options, in quasi-period style, although it’s the (significantly more
occupying a slightly elevated position up a side street just expensive) rooms in the original villa which are the real
west of the centre. Downstairs rooms are the cheapest; $10 stunners – each an exquisite little Edwardian period piece
6 extra gets you one of the brighter upstairs rooms, most of full of time-warped atmosphere and character. $150
Thitaw Lay House Forest Rd T081 50846, Wthitaw
which have great views (plus balconies in some), as does
layhouse.com. Attractive mid-range guesthouse in a
the top-floor breakfast room. $35
★ Pine Hill Resort Oo Min Rd T081 50079, soothingly rustic setting surrounded by woodland a 15min
Wmyanmarpinehill.com. One of Kalaw’s most beguiling walk from town. Accommodation is in a pair of large and
places to stay, set in and around a lovely old colonial attractively appointed wooden bungalows and a slightly
bungalow with bags of period character and atmosphere, larger studio, and rates include a good buffet breakfast
with bright, pine-laden rooms arranged around featuring quality home-baked items. $50
immaculately manicured lawns and gardens. It’s located in Winner Union Highway T081 50025, Ewinnerhotel
a quiet area 2km south of the town centre – a plus for .kalaw@gmail.com. Reliable and competitively priced
budget option, with attentive service and a range of
some, a minus for others. $95
Royal Kalaw Hills Resort East Circular Rd T081 rooms including smallish but OK fan-only doubles, plus
50851, Wroyalkalawhillsresort.com. A real taste of bigger and quieter a/c doubles (from $30) set away from
colonial-era Kalaw, occupying a hundred-year-old country the main road. $20
EATING
Aung Nyein Chan Aung Station St T081 50662. If you hand-painted signs, it’s like a little work of art that simply
fancy eating in a place where locals are guaranteed to begs to be photographed. Try some of the speciality deep-
outnumber tourists, this is your spot. There are no prices on fried Indian savouries with your tea. Daily 6am–8pm.
the menu for their mix of Burmese, Shan and Chinese Morning Star Khone Thae St T081 50443. Mauve tables,
dishes, but it’ll generally come to K2500–3000 or so for lime-green chairs and sky-blue doors give this place the
a set of rice, main and sides. The Burmese food is served colour of a Caribbean beach shack. The fare, however, is pure
from 10.30am; as ever, the earlier in the day you eat it, Indian, including sugary Indian sweets and (in the mornings)
the less time it has had to sit around acquiring germs. delectable chapati puri (K400) – sitting outside with a view
Daily 8.30am–10pm. of the glittering glass stupa of the Aung Chan Tha Zedi
Everest Aung Chan Tha St T081 50348. Popular North opposite is a fine way to start the day. Daily 6am–7pm.
Indian restaurant serving a wide range of meat and veg Pyae Pyae Union Highway T081 50798. Pint-sized
curries and thalis (mains around K4000) alongside the little venue on the main road a short walk west of the
classic Nepalese-style dhal bhat – not the best Indian food centre, popular with tourists and locals alike on account of
you’ll ever have, although the attentive service and lively its excellent Shan noodles (K1000) served in a variety of
atmosphere make it a nice place for an evening meal. soups, and salad. Daily 6am–9pm.
Daily 9am–9pm. ★ Red House Min St T09 771 357 407. Set in a fine old
Ma Hnin Si Station St T081 50727. Understated but colonial building (the red house of the name), this stylish
gorgeous little teahouse – with its mocha-coloured tables new venue has brought a welcome dash of culinary chic to
and kindergarten-size chairs, mint-coloured interior and town, with a mainly Italian menu (mains K6600–8800) of

CHEWING BETEL, KALAWSTYLE
Kalaw is one of the better places in the land to give the chewing of betel nut parcels (see box,
p.10) a go. While most travellers find the taste diabolical (and it’s also carcinogenic), the fare on
offer in Kalaw can be surprisingly pleasant to munch on. Sweeter, tastier ingredients such as
green papaya and coconut are often added to the regular mix, while locals like the betel
nuts themselves lightly roasted, adding yet another nuance to the taste. Dozens of shacks and
tiny shops will sell you this local oddity, with the stretch south of the market a particularly
happy hunting ground; figure on around K200 per parcel and, as ever, remember to spit out
the first few times your mouth starts to fill with saliva, as the slaked lime can destroy your liver,
as well as your teeth.