Page 253 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

NYAUNGSHWE INLE LAKE AND THE EAST 251
It’s also possible to scramble up to the top of the earth- and scrub-covered remains
of a ruined stupa immediately to the west for fine views out over Nyaungshwe and
the surrounding hills.

The Monastery Quarter
• East bank of Mong Li canal • Daily 24hr • Free
Hugging the east bank of the small Mong Li canal is a trio of monasteries, each of 6
them housing more than a hundred monks. While none of them is particularly
interesting in an architectural sense, it’s quite an experience to pass by at prayer time
(early morning being your best bet) in order to take in the ethereal sound of
monotonous, synchronized chanting.

Cultural Museum
• Museum Rd • Tues–Sun 10am–4pm • K2000
The most intriguing sight in town is the Cultural Museum out to the northeast of
the centre. An odd mishmash of teak ruins, brick add-ons and Buddhist flourishes,
supposedly modelled on the palaces of Amarapura and Mandalay, it has passed through
several different incarnations since its completion in 1923. The main hall was originally
built as the palace of Sao Shwe Thaik, the last saopha (sky lord) of Nyaungshwe.
An ethnic Shan himself, Sao Shwe Thaik became the first president of independent
Burma in 1948, holding that post until 1952 and continuing as a prominent political
figure in the new Union before being arrested following the military coup in 1962,
dying in prison later the same year.
The Shan became increasingly marginalized under the subsequent military junta,
and the palace building, after a time as the Museum of Shan Chiefs, was transformed
into a Buddha Museum, its Shan identity erased. The times are a-changing, however,
and a Shan flag now flutters happily outside, while old Shan ceremonial
accoutrements including the royal throne and furniture have been put back on
display, together with a few elaborate, sequinned royal costumes and some evocative
photographs of Shan rulers and visiting dignitaries, including a very grumpy-looking
future King Edward VII, labelled “Wale Prince (Crown Price of British)”. It’s the
superb interior, however, which really catches the attention, particularly the cavernous
audience hall and interconnected throne room, with mighty teak columns and carved
wooden walls, screens and creaky floors – one of the most memorable of Myanmar’s
many fine timber constructions.

NYAUNGSHWE BY BICYCLE
Nyaungshwe is surrounded by stunning countryside, best explored either on foot on a trek
(see p.253) or by bicycle. There are a number of rewarding destinations to aim for, including
the Red Mountain winery (see box, p.256) and the Khaung Daing hot springs (see p.261) – you
can actually work both into a circular route by taking a boat (around K8000 after haggling)
between the village of Maing Thauk and Khaung Daing.
For an introduction to the area on two wheels, try the enjoyable 22km round-trip from
Nyaungshwe to Maing Thauk, starting south of Nyaungshwe at Nantha village (see p.252).
You’ll enter the village immediately after passing the Buddha statue; take a left turn at the
tiny T-junction. After passing through a tunnel-like thicket of bamboo, the road veers left;
turn right instead, onto a dirt track just before the small bridge. This path heads through
bucolic scenery to a small village, after which you’ll be spat back out onto the main road
to Maing Thauk. If you’re heading in the opposite direction, the path back to Nyaungshwe
starts almost opposite Aung Thit Sar, a tiny juice bar just north of a distinctive pink-painted
building.