Page 267 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

TAUNGGYI AND AROUND INLE LAKE AND THE EAST 265
Taunggyi. Constructed by – and sacred to – the numerous Pa-O who live in the area,
the site (according to legend) traces its roots back to a visit by missionaries despatched
by the great third-century BC Indian Buddhist ruler Asoka, although its historical
origins date from the reign of the pious King Alaungsithu of Bagan (ruled 1112–67),
who is believed to have constructed a pagoda here. Many of the current stupas date
back to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, although the majority have been
significantly restored or rebuilt, and only a few look their true age.
Packed into an area around 300m wide and 150m long, the stupas are arranged in 6
neat rows bisected by little brick-paved “streets”, the air filled – assuming there’s any
breeze – with the magical tintinnabulations of innumerable tiny bells set in the stupas’
htis (the ornate metal finials which crown the summit of each stupa spire). Most of the
stupas are thin, round and rather elongated, although many of the taller structures have
lost their crowning hti or the tops of their spires, while others wear their htis at a
decidedly rakish angle. You’ll also see other designs, including stupas built up in tiers of
diminishing cubes, along with a few unusual examples designed to resemble miniature
two-storey buildings, complete with quaint hipped roofs. Look out too for the small
pond at the front right-hand side of the complex, offering marvellously photogenic
reflections of the myriad spires. Food and drink can be found at a pleasant restaurant
up the small hill opposite the main entrance.
The site hosts the annual Kakku pagoda festival on the full-moon day of the lunar
month of Tabaung (usually falling in March), during which Pa-O from across the state
come to pay their respects at the pagoda, dressed in their finest clothes and riding in on
prettily decorated bullock carts.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TAUNGGYI
By plane Heho airport (see p.241) is Taunggyi’s closest in Burmese only. Along with the destinations listed below
airport. It would be a minor miracle to find other foreigners there are also buses to Loikaw, but foreigners are not
headed to Taunggyi, rather than Inle Lake, but if you’d like currently allowed on them (see p.265).
to share a taxi (around K30,000–35,000) you may get some Destinations Bagan (2 daily; 8–9hr); Mandalay (6 daily;
luck asking locals. Pretty much all the domestic airlines 8–10hr); Meiktila (3–4 daily; 7hr); Thazi (6 daily; 6hr);
have offices in Taunggyi, although for tickets it’s generally Yangon (8 daily; 12hr).
easiest to visit either Sunflower Travels & Tours (T081 212 By pick-up Regular pick-ups connect Taunggyi to
2575, Esunflowertgy@gmail.com) or Mayflower Travels & Nyaungshwe (6.30am–5pm; K1500), leaving from a little
Tours (T081 212 2669, Wmayflower-travels.com), both backstreet northwest of the market. Pick-ups to Kalaw and
on Bogyoke Aung San Rd. other destinations leave from various stops along the
By bus Bus company offices are lined up in a row next to chaotic street running along the north side of the market.
the main road right in the centre of town, although not By taxi Taxis congregate around the Kan-Tone Hotel, just
much English is spoken and absolutely everything is signed north of the bus company offices.
ACCOMMODATION
Taunggyi isn’t exactly rushing to pull in foreign tourists and there’s a chronic lack of budget options, although a couple
of good mid-range choices. Note that accommodation becomes scarce and prices rise during the balloon festival (see
box, p.264). All places listed have a/c unless stated otherwise.
Eastern Hotel 27 Bogyoke Aung San Rd T081 212 town. Rooms are actually better than you might expect,
2243, Eeasternhotel.tgi@gmail.com. This old-fashioned small but neat and reasonably equipped, with good hot
two-star is one of the cheapest options in town, bearable for showers in the tiny bathrooms and flatscreen TVs, although
a night, although the unenthusiastic service and cramped the thin walls mean you might end up getting to know your
neighbours a bit better than you really wanted to.
rooms (no a/c) don’t exactly encourage you to linger. $30
Golden Win 2 West Circular Rd (not to be confused Friendly service, although not much English spoken. $25
with the Golden Win 1 on the main road right in the Shwe Kyun Hotel Corner of Sittaung and Dhamma
town centre) T081 200178, Egoldencrown.inn Rakhidha sts T081 201392, Wshwekyunhotel
@gmail.com. Taunggyi’s cheapest option at present, set -myanmar.com. Central Taunggyi’s smartest option, with
around the back of a ramshackle block in a scuzzy part of fancy rooms decorated with wood panelling and traditional