Page 271 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

KAYAH STATE INLE LAKE AND THE EAST 269
beautiful wooden furniture and a water-facing balcony Rooms are spacious and comfortable – if you don’t mind
or terrace – even the bathrooms are miniature works of the mad crazy-paving-style walls – and there are also a
art. One corridor serves as an impromptu gallery couple of bargain non-a/c singles ($15) with (rather
showcasing the owner’s stunning photography of the knackered-looking) shared bathroom. $40
famous tattoo-faced Chin (see p.132), and there’s also a Nan Ayer Nat Shine Naung St, just north of the river
great in-house restaurant (see below) and full tour and opposite the town centre T083 21306. A real old-school
Burmese guesthouse, and currently the cheapest option
travel services. $95
Min Ma Haw Motel 120 Gangaw St T083 21451, in town. The simple wooden-box rooms are basic and 6
Eminmahaw96@gmail.com. One of the best of the battered, although they do come with a/c, hot water
town’s cheaper options, in a central location just south of and wi-fi. There’s also one bargain non-a/c room at just $11
the river, with helpful English-speaking management. (or $6 single) with outside bathroom. $18
EATING
Golden Lion Restaurant Town centre, east side of the much the only decent – coffee in Kayah State. Daily
river T083 21431. Convivial local restaurant, serving 11.30am–2pm & 6–9pm.
mainly Chinese-style food (mains around K4000), well Red Dynasty Southeast corner of Loikaw Lake, near
prepared and in generous portions – the terrace the footbridge over the lake T09 444 894 343. The
overlooking the river is a particularly nice place to hang out most upscale of the various restaurants ringing the smaller
of an evening. An English-language menu is available, of Loikaw’s two lakes. Barbecued dishes are the speciality,
although with no prices on it. Daily 10am–9pm. including flambéed seafood and good Chinese-style meat
Loikaw Lodge U Ni St, around 2km north of the mains (around K4000). There’s an English menu, but no
centre T09 257 426 673, Wloikawlodge.com. prices on it. Daily 10am–10pm.
Several cuts above anywhere else to eat in town is this Shwe Ya Ti Next to the bridge over the river just north
attractive, modern glassed-in restaurant at a lovely of the centre. Classic Burmese teahouse, set on stilts in a
lakeside hotel (see p.268). The regularly changing pleasantly rustic location next to the river, just opposite the
menu features an excellent range of Burmese and town centre. Good to visit at any time, but particularly at
European fare (mains $10–15) using quality local and breakfast, when they serve up delicious paratha with sweet
imported ingredients. Also serves up excellent home- lentils and Chinese doughnuts. No English sign, although
made breads, desserts and the best – indeed, pretty it’s easy enough to spot. Daily 6am–6pm.

Around Loikaw
The wonderfully unspoilt countryside around Loikaw is slowly coming onto the tourist
radar, particularly Pan Pet, home to the celebrated long-necked ladies of the Kayan
(Padaung). Two local communities – Pan Pet itself and the Kayah village of Hta Nee La
Leh – are now run as part of an innovative Netherlands-funded community-based
tourism (CBT) scheme, aiming to ensure the best experience of tourism for villagers
and visitors alike. Locals see significant economic benefits from welcoming tourists into
their villages and homes, while tourists enjoy cultural insights and interactions with
locals which would otherwise be unavailable. Tours (see opposite) are pricey,
admittedly, although not so punitive if you can get a group together.
Pan Pet
The main attraction in the vicinity of Loikaw is the settlement of PAN PET, an hour and
a half’s drive to the south. The village is one of the heartlands of the Kayan (Padaung)
tribe (see box, p.270), whose famous “long-necked” ladies are one of Myanmar’s most
emblematic and exotic sights. The area actually comprises a string of Kayan villages
running west of the main road south of Loikaw, with a small market by the turn-off
from the main road.
It’s possible to arrange the trip independently by taxi from Loikaw, although this will
leave you more or less stranded at the market and unable to reach any of the villages
further down the (rough) track or properly meet or interact with any of the local
villagers. It’s far better, if you can stump up the funds, to visit with one of the
recommended tour operators in Loikaw (see p.268). These will provide a local