Page 30 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

28 BASICS GettinG around
PERMITS: GO OR NO-GO?
While Myanmar has opened up enormously to foreign visitors in the past few years and
independent travel has become straightforward in much of the country, you will quickly run
into travel restrictions if you want to explore the country’s remote mountainous fringes.
in some areas – such as large parts of Shan and Kachin states – foreigners’ access is limited as
a result of government conflict with ethnic minority groups, while other areas are cut off to
protect dubious business interests – among them drug-dealing hotspots as well as jade and
gem mines (although since 2015 even many of these mining areas have opened up to
permit-free independent travel). Many of these regions are either completely closed to foreign
visitors or require permits that may take several weeks to obtain.
Myanmar’s no-go zones are in constant flux – parts of rakhine State, for example, have
closed and reopened repeatedly over the last few years – and these closures and
requirements can change without warning. Currently, anywhere in the vicinity of the
Bangladesh border is a closed military region, and to try and visit would be foolhardy. our map
(see p.27) shows regions where travel was restricted at the time of research, but for the latest
information you should contact Myanmar tours and travels (Mtt; Wmyanmartourism.org) or
get in touch with an authorized tour operator.
Make sure to plan well in advance if you would like to visit a restricted area. Permits for
many restricted areas take at least a month to arrange, with a private tour operator approved
by Mtt (these are listed under “Services” on the Mtt website) making the application on your
behalf. You will be required to book onto an official tour or – at the bare minimum – hire a
guide to make sure you don’t misbehave. Permit costs themselves are nominal, but the strings
attached to the permit (often requiring you to be accompanied by a guide and driver, or to
join a group) drive up the price of visiting off-limits regions.

(Wasianwingsair.com), Golden Myanmar airlines tickets online – although they may allow you to
(Wgmairlines.com) and Yangon airways make an online reservation and then pay once in
(Wyangonair.com) – run services on domestic the country.
routes and have offices in major towns and cities.
Given the long journey times overland, travel- By bus
ling by plane can be an attractive choice if you’re
not on a tight budget (one-way airfares from Buses are usually much faster than trains, and are
Yangon to Mandalay start from $100), and in a generally the best way to get around on a budget.
few cases, such as visiting Kengtung, air travel is there are many different bus companies and most
the only option as overland routes are closed to are privately owned. taking buses can be quite
foreigners. Many services fly on circular routes, tiring, however, since most long-distance services
stopping at several airports on the way, and it run through the night, stop roughly every three
may therefore be easier to make a journey one hours for toilet or food breaks (not all the buses
way rather than the other. have toilets on board), and arrive before dawn.
Besides Yangon and Mandalay, the most useful Most long-distance buses are reasonably
regional airports for visitors are Bagan (nyaung u), comfortable, and an increasing number offer
Heho (for inle Lake, Kalaw and Pindaya) and luxuries such as small television screens in each
Thandwe (ngapali Beach). note that flights are seat, complimentary toothbrushes and snacks,
always heavily booked over the thingyan Water and even seats that fully recline. do make sure
Festival, when you will need to book well in you bring warm clothes, as they tend to crank up
advance. the luggage weight limit on domestic the air-conditioning, as well as earplugs if
flights is 20kg per person. Burmese pop music isn’t your thing. on major
one thing to be aware of when travelling by air routes, it’s often possible to take a slightly faster
within Myanmar is that flight schedules are and more comfortable “ViP” or “express” bus
subject to change at short notice, and delays are service for a small additional fee. Ordinary buses
very common. if you’re only flying a very short also run segments of longer routes, such as
distance, it can sometimes be just as quick (or taungoo to Mandalay (rather than the full Yangon
slow depending on how you look at it) to go by to Mandalay trip); these are usually in worse
road. Some domestic airlines still do not sell condition but are cheaper for shorter trips, as on

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