Page 31 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

GettinG around BASICS 29
long-distance buses you will pay the fare for the closed to foreigners. another is for the experience
full journey even if you get on or off part-way itself: many routes run through areas of great
through. You’ll also find smaller, 32-seat buses – beauty, for example the rickety Gokteik Viaduct
these should be avoided if possible for long trips, between Pyin oo Lwin and Kyaukme (see box,
as they tend to be jam-packed with luggage. as p.320). trains also offer more opportunities than
for prices, the 9hr trip between Yangon and buses to interact with local people.
Mandalay costs around K32,000 on an express
bus, compared to K17,000 by ordinary bus. note Routes and train types
that on express buses, large items of luggage are the country’s most important line (and one of the
stowed in compartments underneath the coach, few stretches of double track) runs between
while on ordinary buses bags are stored Yangon and Mandalay via naypyitaw, and this line
anywhere the owner can find space. has the most modern rolling stock. additional
Some bus routes are off limits to foreigners (such major lines run from Myitkyina in the far north to
as Bhamo to Mandalay). if in doubt about your Mandalay, and south of Yangon as far as Mawla-
route, check with local guesthouse staff at either myine. Branch lines connect towns to the east and
end of the journey, as they are often the most clued west of the main railroad to the network.
up on the local situation. Myanmar’s railways are currently being extended in
it’s a good idea to book a day or two ahead for several directions, with new track being laid to
busy routes (such as Bagan to nyaungshwe), ones Bhamo in the northeast, Kengtung in the east,
where only a few buses run (such as ngwe Saung Myeik in the south and Pathein in the southwest.
to Yangon) or where you’re joining a bus part-way a range of services operates on each of the
through its route (in Kalaw, for example). Guest- major lines. Where possible, it’s worth opting for
houses can often help book tickets for a small fee the slightly faster “express” services, as these trains
(usually K2000–3000), or you can buy them either are given priority over slower local services, and
from bus stations (which in some cases are outside are thus less likely to be delayed – tickets for the
of town), from in-town bus company offices or from various classes cost the same, regardless of the
local travel agents. tickets booked privately often train type.
include transfers to and from the bus station,
which is particularly convenient when the station is Train classes and sleepers
out of town. all trains have upper- and ordinary-class carriages.
note that all of Myanmar’s bus services close upper class has reservable reclining seats (which
down for a week or more over the thingyan Water can be more of a curse than a blessing if the
Festival; make sure that you have alternative mechanism is broken), while ordinary class has hard
arrangements – typically by plane or train – if you seats that cannot be reserved – you may end up
need to travel over that period. Finally, prepare for standing if the train is crowded. Some trains also
delays, particularly if travelling during Myanmar’s have first-class carriages, which actually fall
rainy season (June to october) each year. between upper and ordinary class in price and
comfort, with seating usually on a padded wooden
By train bench. Upper-class sleeper carriages, available
between Yangon and Mandalay, Yangon and Bagan,
the railway system in Myanmar is antiquated, slow and on some Mandalay to Myitkyina services, offer
and generally uncomfortable. the entire network, two- and four-berth lockable compartments with
which dates from the days of British Burma, is bedclothes provided. Special sleepers are available
narrow gauge, and although frequent repairs have between Yangon and Mandalay, with self-contained
been made (thankfully), train journeys in Myanmar compartments sleeping up to four passengers, a
are often comically bouncy and the timing is unpre- private toilet and sitting area as well as a private
dictable in the extreme. on most routes buses are entrance. For the moment only the Yangon to
faster and more reliable – it is not uncommon for Mandalay trains have air-conditioning – on all other
express trains to be delayed by several hours, and trains, open windows are the order of the day.
local trains are usually even worse. express trains may have restaurant cars, and on all
all that said, there are reasons why you might trains food vendors either come on board or carry
want to take a train at least once during your trip. out transactions through the windows at stops.
one is that on a few routes, such as from Mandalay Whatever the class of train, the bathrooms on
up to naba, Katha and Myitkyina, road transport is board all services are basic and often unclean.

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