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328  NortherN MyaNMar Hsipaw and around
        aCCoMMoDatIoN
        Hsipaw Resort 29/30 Myohaung Village T082 80721,   right, a pleasant but cramped wooden guesthouse has a
        Whsipawresort.com.  Hsipaw’s most upmarket hotel   range of dorms from $7 (some with a/c) as well as some
        offers 28 classy rooms in pretty bungalows with   $16 twin rooms with shared facilities; and on the left
        wonderfully  comfortable beds.  Each room has a  terrace   there’s a hotel with en-suite rooms with a/c from $22 (or
        with a bench looking over the gardens to the river. Based   $18 if you’re on your own). In the guesthouse, the wi-fi
        on the opposite bank of the Dokhtawady River from the   doesn’t extend beyond the reception area. $16
        town, next to a small agricultural village, the hotel   Red Dragon  Mahaw Gani St  T082  80740,
        operates a free boat service and also has a good restaurant.   Ereddragonhotel.hsipaw@gmail.com. This newly built
        While the wi-fi is good in the reception, it’s much weaker in   block stands above the surrounding buildings, just north of
        the rooms. $90                 the town centre. One of the best-value places in Hsipaw,
        Lily the Home  108 Aung  Thapye St  T082 80318,   especially for single guests, its high-ceilinged rooms are
        Wlilythehome.com. This family-run hotel’s new block has   perhaps a little impersonal and there are odd quirks like
        a range of comfortable en-suite rooms starting at $30   bolts on the outside of the rooms. That said, the hot water
        (some with balconies), as well as a top-floor terrace for   is reliable and you get a lot of space for your money. The
        breakfast. Behind, the two-storey older building has   $20 standard rooms face the street and the $24 superiors
        cheaper rooms, though they’re rather dark on the ground   have river views, and both come with a/c and en-suite
        floor. Another building has “backpacker” rooms with shared   bathrooms. Single travellers pay half, except in the
        bathrooms, which sell out quickly at $8/person. There’s a   cheapest rooms where they pay $7. $12
        computer in the reception for guests to use. Bikes can be   Yee Shin  Namtu Rd  T082 80711,  Eyee.shin2012
        rented for K2000/day, and treks can be arranged. $20  @gmail.com. This small, central guesthouse has fourteen
        Mr Charles  105  Auba  St  T082  80105,  Wmrcharles   tiny rooms, ranging from $6 singles with fans and shared
    8   hotel.com. The most established accommodation option   bathrooms to $20 en-suite doubles with a/c. The cheaper
        in town, Mr Charles is divided into two sections: on the
                                       rooms are divided with plywood partitions. $12
        eatING
        North of the bridge, Namtu Road is lined with inexpensive teahouses and small restaurants.
        ★ Black House Coffee Shwe Nyaung Pin St. You can relax   few Western favourites like burgers starting from around
        in the reclining chairs on the peaceful riverside terrace at Black   K3000.  The delicious Shan set menu, K20,000 for 2–4
        House Coffee, based in an old wooden house and owned by   diners, needs to be ordered in advance. Daily noon–9pm.
        a friendly Shan family. Hot drinks including coffee start   Mrs Popcorn’s Garden Near Little Bagan T09 402 664
        from K1000, and cake costs around K700. Daily 7am–6pm.  925. In a lovely garden on the road between Little Bagan
        Club Terrace 35 Shwe Nyaung Pin St T09 4924 2416.   and the  nat  shrine, the cheerful Mrs Popcorn and her
        With something of the understated style of its namesake in   daughter serve locally grown tea and coffee, plus simple
        Pyin Oo Lwin, this restaurant has a pretty wooden deck   snacks – no popcorn, though. This is the perfect place to
        overlooking the river and a menu that covers the usual   spend the afternoon lazing in the sun. Cooked meals are
        bases – Thai, Chinese and Burmese. It’s pricier than most   available if you order in advance. Daily 9am–dusk.
        other restaurants in Hsipaw (K2500 for a bottle of Myanmar   Pontoon Coffee  Namtu Rd.  Run by an Australian
        Beer, K3500 for meat and fish dishes), but the food, service   expat called Maureen, this café has moved from the
        and environment all make it worth visiting.  Daily   riverside and now occupies an airy two-storey building on
        10am–10pm.                     a quiet corner of the main road. Serves coffee (from K1500)
        Mr Charles 105 Auba St T082 80105. The dining room   and a small range of snacks like pancakes, sandwiches and
        at Mr Charles serves a range of Asian dishes, along with a   guacamole. Daily 9am–9pm.
        ShoPPING
        Mr Book Namtu Rd. The kindly Ko Zaw Tin, aka “Mr Book”,   donates school supplies and funds to village schools near
        runs a small bookshop from a dusty shack on Namtu Rd,   Hsipaw – donations of any kind are gratefully received.
        which has an interesting selection of English books on sale.   Daily 6am–9pm.
        He’s also involved with several charitable projects and often
        DIreCtory
        Banks Hsipaw’s banks are clustered around the clocktower   offering currency exchange and ATMs.
        on Bogyoke Rd, with branches of KBZ Bank and CB Bank



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