Page 80 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

78 Yangon and around Midtown Yangon
1 medieval too. Visitors are also allowed to feed some of the animals (including
elephants, bears, hippos and monkeys) with selected foods bought next to the pens in
question (sugar cane for the elephants, for example). Needless to say, such unregulated
feeding runs contrary to all good zoological and veterinary practice, although it does
at least save the zoo the cost and bother of feeding the animals itself.

Kandawgyi Lake

Much of the area immediately east of the Shwedagon Pagoda and north of Yangon
Zoo is occupied by the attractive Kandawgyi Lake, a crinkly-edged expanse of water
wrapped up in attractively landscaped gardens and surrounded by some of the city’s
prime real estate. The “Great Royal Lake” (as the name translates) was created by the
British using water channelled from Inya Lake – it’s around 8km in circumference,
but not much more than 1m deep at any point. The best views of the water are from
Khan Yeik Thar Road on its southern side, either from an attractive (although badly
maintained) lakeside boardwalk or from the adjacent public road.
Karaweik Palace

Impossible to miss on the east side of the lake is the striking Karaweik Palace, a chintzy
pagoda-style hall built in 1974 and set on a pair of barges pointing out into the water,
each with the head of an enormous karaweik (a mythical bird famous for its melodious
song) on its prow. The design echoes the pyigyimun, or royal barge, commonly used for
ceremonial purposes by Burmese monarchs of the past. It’s a nice place to watch the
sun set over Shwedagon, while the lavish interior now houses a restaurant staging a
touristy nightly dinner buffet-cum-cultural show (see p.96).

Bogyoke Aung San Museum
• 25 Bogyoke Museum Lane • Tues–Sun 9.30am–4.30pm • K5000
The rewarding Bogyoke Aung San Museum has a double significance, occupying the
building which was both the last residence of General Aung San, father of independent
Burma, and also the first home of the mother of contemporary Myanmar, Aung San
Suu Kyi. It was here that General Aung San lived from 1945 until his assassination in
1947, and where his daughter (born 1945) also spent the first two years of her life. The
museum was until recently open for just one day each year due to its connections with
Aung San Suu Kyi, but is now accessible six days a week, attracting a regular stream of
visitors ranging from dutiful school parties to elderly Burmese paying their respects.
The fine old house itself is full of period character, somewhere between a traditional
Burmese teak mansion and a miniature French chateau, complete with sweeping
staircase, shady veranda and a whimsical circular turret. Inside, the time-warped
wood-panelled rooms have been left atmospherically empty bar a few simple but
well-chosen exhibits – assorted photographs, some pieces of original furniture and
Aung San’s iconic trenchcoat (a gift from Indian leader Jawaharlal Nehru) – which
offer a moving memorial to Myanmar’s charismatic lost leader.

Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda
• Shwegondaing Rd • Daily 6am–8pm • Free
Even in a land of big Buddhas, the giant reclining figure at the Chauk Htat Gyi
Pagoda (also spelt “Kyauk Htat Gyi”) is an unquestionable show-stopper: almost
66m long, with a 7.3m-long face, 2.7m-worth of nose, and 50cm-high eyes.
FROM TOP KANDAWGYI LAKE; RECLINING BUDDHA, CHAUK HTAT GYI PAGODA >

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