Page 134 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS

Puning Temple ABOVE Sightseers at the Imperial Vault of Heaven, Temple

of Heaven, Beijing
vs Temple of Heaven FORGET THE TEMPLE
OF HEAVEN?

THE BUILD-UP Beijing’s Temple of Heaven is
The Temple of Heaven is one of China’s most iconic symbols, but it lacks the profound a picture-postcard emblem of China’s capital.
air of reverence that lures Buddhist pilgrims from across the land to Puning Temple Venue of the heavily ritualized imperial sacrifices
to heaven during the Ming and Qing dynasties,
this collection of buildings gives visitors a
unique insight into China’s dynastic past. With
NEED TO KNOW from season to season, and frames the temple its blue-tiled, triple-eaved umbrella roof, the
within the context of the natural world, which is beautiful Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests
LOCATION Puning Temple is
in Chengde, a town in Hebei inherently untamed and unmanaged. remains a paragon of Ming dynasty design.
3644*"
Province, 140 miles (230 km) Wreathed in devotion, the magnificent temple
northeast of Beijing THE LETDOWN Temple of Heaven park is
.0/(0-*" encloses a series of halls stacked against the slope
VISITORS PER alive with people and t’ai chi practitioners in
YEAR Around 600,000 $)&/(%& that serve as sacred portals to the powers of Guanyin,
,BTIJ the early morning, but the temple structures
DAYTIME #FJKJOH the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, who inhabits the
TEMPERATURES $)*/" religious imagination of the nation. Her legendary themselves are functionless. The halls and
Jan: 23°F (-5°C); Apr: 57°F -IBTB 4IBOHIBJ altar were reserved for imperial use during the
(14°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); home may be on the island of Putuo Shan, off the Ming and Qing dynasties, and although the
Oct: 55°F (13°C) )POH ,POH Zhejiang coast hundreds of miles to the southeast,
complex is now fully open to the public, no
but the UNESCO-protected temple in Chengde is one comes here to worship. Neither Buddhist
China’s most impressive shrine to this deity. nor Taoist, the Temple of Heaven has little
The Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan), more accurately The intangible but boundless energy of Guanyin meaning for China’s devout, and has an
translated as the Altar of Heaven, might be one of is represented in the temple’s most astounding atmosphere of Confucian reserve.
China’s most photographed sights, but it is obscure treasure: a colossal effigy standing in the Mahayana
in its symbols, esoteric in function, and essentially Hall, a towering space with several viewing galleries. GOING ANYWAY? Try to get to Temple of
in religious disuse. In fact, this over-visited collection If you only have time for one Buddhist effigy in the Heaven Park early in the morning, when you
of buildings has little of the vitality and atmosphere whole land, this must be it. Standing at over 72 ft can watch it coming to life, and take time to
explore the grounds. The cheapest and quietest
of Chengde’s Puning Temple (Puning Si). (22 m) high, the “1,000-arm and 1,000-eye” Guanyin,
time to visit is from November to March. Opt
While the Confucian orderliness and lifelessness reputedly the world’s largest wooden statue,
for the inexpensive and informative audio tour.
of Beijing’s famous altar points to a ceremonial presides over a wide-eyed assembly of the devout
purpose to which visitors can’t easily relate, the and awestruck. Gazing up at this giant figure, which
day-to-day vibrancy of Puning Temple intoxicates sports an eye in each hand, could possibly be the
pilgrims and travelers alike. This is a living, breathing, most powerful experience China can impart.
active place of worship, where the full panoply of
Buddhist ritual is played out by resident lamas and PRACTICAL INFORMATION
incense-carrying worshipers.
The architecture and surroundings of the two Getting There and Around but the 4-star Yunshan Hotel (tel.
temples reflect their different characters. The Temple The nearest international airport +86 314 205 5888) has the best
of Heaven is a paradigm of Chinese architectural is in Beijing. Buses leave Liuliqiao rooms and service in town.
balance and symbolism. The site is perfectly flat, and Sihui bus stations hourly for When to Go
the 4-hour trip to Chengde. Trains
which accentuates the harmony of its layout and Avoid summer and winter, when
can take over 4 hours.
reinforces a certain monotony. Its buildings are an temperatures are extreme. The
Where to Eat temple’s galleries sometimes shut
exercise in restraint, so there is an absence of Imperial hunting traditions have
spontaneity and natural wildness. Puning Temple, left Chengde with a taste for wild in the afternoon, so get there early.
on the other hand, is a synthesis of Chinese and game. Try the fowl in the Dadi Budget per Day for Two
Tibetan architectural styles, built on the side of a Beijing Roast Duck Restaurant US$100 for accommodations, food,
(tel. +86 314 202 2979). transportation, and admission fees.
mountain. Frequently associated with myths, spirits,
and magical happenings, mountains in China are Where to Stay Website
Chengde accommodations cannot www.world-heritage-tour.org/
characteristic refuges for Buddhist temples. This
compare with the choice in Beijing, asia/china/chengde/puning-si-up
spectacular backdrop changes color dramatically

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