Page 165 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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FORGET THE NATURAL WONDERS
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS?

THE BUILD-UP These volcanic isles in the
Pacific Ocean 600 miles (1,000 km) west of
Ecuador, are renowned for their remarkable
island ecosystems. Nowhere in the world would
Fernando one have quite the same up-close-and-personal
encounters with wildlife, with the intimacy of
ABOVE A shoal of black margates swimming amid the coral reefs in the traveling between islands by boat.
de Noronha THE LETDOWN The number of visitors to the
depths around Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
islands has increased tenfold since 1980. Many
of the popular trails are overcrowded, pollution
vs Galapagos Islands is on the rise, implementation of regulations is
lax, and visits are increasingly costly.
Fernando de Noronha is a near mirror-image
GOING ANYWAY? The best way to explore the
of the Galapagos, with a unique appeal
Galapagos is on an organized boat charter with
a licensed guide. Preservation of this ecosystem
NEED TO KNOW is every traveler’s responsibility. When hiking,
stick to established trails and don’t touch or,
LOCATION This island in worse, feed the wildlife! Take only photographs,
the Atlantic Ocean is south of leave only footprints.
the Equator and 216 miles ABOVE Colorful wooden boats in Fernando de Noronha’s harbor
(360 km) east of Natal .BOBVT '&3/"/%0
%& /030/)"
VISITORS PER YEAR 3FDJGF magnificent frigatebird, red-billed tropicbirds, and
70,000 #3";*-
the endearing brown, masked, red-footed, and
DAYTIME #SBTJMJB
#0-*7*"
TEMPERATURES blue-footed boobies. In fact, Fernando de Noronha
Jan: 81°F (27°C); Apr: 81°F 3JP EF is home to the largest concentration of tropical
+BOFJSP
(27°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); 4ÍP 1BVMP
Oct: 79°F (26°C) "UMBOUJD seabirds in the western Atlantic.
"3(&/5*/"
0DFBO
It’s no wonder that the entire chain is protected
as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Baía dos
The Atlantic twin to the Pacific Ocean’s world- Golfinhos has the highest concentration of
famous Galapagos, the Fernando de Noronha resident dolphins in the world. Post-dawn, spinner
archipelago of 21 volcanic islands and islets lies dolphins can be seen leaping and frolicking in the ABOVE A crowd of tourists watching sea lions sunning
just south of the Equator, some 216 miles (360 km) morning sunshine. Whales are also often seen themselves at Sullivan Bay, Galapagos islands
from mainland Brazil. Like the Galapagos, this close to shore. And the enthralling underwater
lesser-known island enclave is famous for its world is considered the best in Brazil.
fabulous wildlife encounters. The main island, Ilha Fernando de Noronha, is
Fernando de Noronha, however, offers a far graced by the lovely colonial village of Vila
more robust experience, with wonderful Remédios, with its pretty yellow-and-white PRACTICAL INFORMATION
accommodations, fine restaurants, fortress ruins, Baroque Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church,
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
and other historic attractions, plus active adventures built in 1772, overlooking a quiet cobblestone
The Aeroporto Fernando de Eco-sensitive resort, Pousada
from biking and hiking to sea-kayaking and surfing. plaza. You can clamber the crumbling remains of Noronha, in the center of the Maravilha (tel. +55 81 3619 0028;
While the Galapagos are best visited on cruises Forte dos Remédios, completed in 1737, and island, is served by flights from www.pousadamaravilha.com.
that last at least a week, Fernando de Noronha is a admire the panoramic views. The Memorial Natal and Recife. Dune-buggy br) has eight bungalows which
great place to settle into a pousada (hotel) on the Noronhense serves as a charming history museum. taxis run around the island at offer comfort and superb vistas.
bargain prices. You can also When to Go
main island and make daily forays by boat to And the island is dotted with romantic pousadas
explore the main island on Visit during the low season
neighboring isles. This is easy to do on organized where you might chance upon Brazil’s hottest
rented buggies. Budget hounds between Aug and Nov, when
excursions or aboard chartered fishing boats. models and movie glitterati, for whom little-visited can take a public bus that runs prices are reduced.
The islands are gloriously scenic, with rugged Fernando de Noronha is becoming hip. along the main highway. Budget per Day for Two
pinnacles piercing the sky, and sheer-faced cliffs The trails and dirt roads that lace the island are Where to Eat US$250 per day for
spilling onto snowy beaches such as Praia do Leáo, good for horse-riding and mountain-biking. And, For lobster and other seafood of accommodations, food,
where marine turtles crawl ashore to lay their eggs. unlike the Galapagos, you can even rent cars, mouthwatering quality, visit and travel.
Ecologiku’s Restaurante Website
Migratory birds flock in their teeming thousands, which means a dune-buggy here, for exhilarating
(tel. +55 81 3619 1807). www.noronha.pe.gov.br
joining permanent residents, including the off-road rides to pristine beaches.

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