Page 32 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

28

ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS

ABOVE Dozens of sightseers outside the Treasury
(Al Khazneh) at Petra, Jordan
FORGET PETRA?

THE BUILD-UP Rising out of rose-red
sandstone in a hidden valley is the city of Petra,
Jordan’s top attraction. The impressive site was
built in the 3rd century BC by the Nabataeans,
Arab traders who created an empire based on
Lalibela frankincense. The city comprises tombs, temples,
the control of the highly lucrative trade in

storerooms, and stables cut out of the rock.
THE LETDOWN Firmly featuring on the
itinerary of every traveler to the Middle East
since the days of the Grand Tour, Petra is one of
vs Petra the most visited sites in the Middle East. The
tourism village that has grown up around Petra
now threatens to outsize the ancient city itself.

Lalibela’s extraordinary rock-hewn monuments challenge Jordan’s Petra in GOING ANYWAY? Though a trip to Petra is
worthwhile at any time, try to visit in the
number, artistic accomplishment and, above all, atmosphere off-season (outside the main European
holidays), and avoid weekends and local school
holidays above all. Arriving at the site early in
Lalibela was the capital of the Zagwe Dynasty the morning will also give you a head start on
NEED TO KNOW the tour groups.
during the 12th and 13th centuries, and was named
LOCATION Lalibela is 400 &3*53&" 3FE after the king credited with the construction of the
4FB
miles (644 km) north of Addis
Ababa, in the Lasta Mountains .FL FMÏ churches. One local legend has it that King Lalibela
(VMG PG
DATE OF -"-*#&-" %+*#065* "EFO was exiled to Jerusalem by his usurping half-brother,
CONSTRUCTION and was inspired by the churches he saw there. Upon
12th and 13th centuries, "EEJT "CBCB 40."-*"
according to locals returning to claim his kingdom, he vowed to build PRACTICAL INFORMATION
(BNCFMB &5)*01*"
DAYTIME a new holy city accessible to all Ethiopian people.
TERMPERATURES Unlike Petra, Lalibela remains a flourishing Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Jan: 57°F (14°C); Apr: 63°F (17°C); Flights go from Addis Ababa to The Jerusalem Guest House (tel.
Jul: 59°F (15°C); Oct: 59°F (15°C) .PZBMF religious center. Pilgrims flock from miles around to Lalibela’s airport, which is 14 miles
,&/:" +251 36 00 47), set in pleasant
visit its dozen or so churches – and countless others (23 km) from the town and site. grounds, offers simple but
in the surrounding area – or to attend one of its Local hotels and travel agencies comfortable rooms with balconies.
For over 500 years, travelers have raved about vibrant religious festivals. Hermits, clutching old offer airport transfer services. The restaurant is designed like a
the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. Francisco rosaries and studying ancient parchment, continue Buses link Lalibela with Woldia, tukul (traditional Ethiopian hut).
the nearest large town, which is
Alvares, a 16th-century Portuguese explorer to inhabit tiny holes in the rock, and robed priests, When to Go
75 miles (120 km) to the east.
and writer, described them as “edifices, the like of deacons, and monks float down the dimly lit It’s worth timing your visit to
Where to Eat coincide with one of Ethiopia’s
which – and so many – cannot be found anywhere passageways that connect the churches, as they Little-developed Lalibela may colorful religious festivals, the
else in the world.” Petra’s rock-carved monuments have done for centuries. From hidden crypts and not boast the richest of dining most famous of which – Timkat
may be far better known, but Lalibela’s are unusual grottoes drifts the sound of chanting, and in the scenes, but there are a handful (Ethiopian Christmas) and Leddet
in a number of ways, not least because so many deep, cool recesses of the interiors, the smell of of restaurants here offering (Epiphany) – occur in January.
wholesome home cooking at
are found in such a small area, with several incense and beeswax candles still pervades. Otherwise, September boasts
affordable prices. Try Helen good weather and green scenery.
seemingly freestanding, and all unusually refined Much mystery still surrounds the rock-carved Hotel (tel. +251 39 00 98),
architecturally. Lalibela’s masons, benefiting from churches of Lalibela. Exactly how, when, and by which also brews its own tej Budget per Day for Two
US$50–75 depending on where
1,000 years of architectural know-how passed whom they were built remains unknown, though (the famous Lalibela honey you stay.
down through the generations since the days of scholars believe it would have taken a workforce of mead). Azmaris – or Ethiopian
minstrels – perform here Website
the ancient Ethiopian Kingdom of Aksum, certainly some 40,000 to build them. Many Ethiopians
regularly in the evenings. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/18
knew what they were doing. believe that angels were partly responsible.

14/4/09 17:40:44
028-029_AHS_Lalibela.indd 28
US028-029_AHS_Lalibela.indd 28 24/7/09 10:08:44