Page 46 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS
FORGET THE TOWER
OF LONDON?

THE BUILD-UP The Tower of London, which
overlooks the River Thames in the center of the
city, is a spectacular example of medieval military
Krak des Chevaliers most iconic images, from its resident ravens and
architecture. It embodies many of London’s
famous “Beefeater” guards to the Crown Jewels.

vs the Tower of London THE LETDOWN This is one of the most popular
attractions in Britain – more than two million
people visit each year – so you can be sure you
won’t be alone when you go. Adding insult to
injury, there’s a hefty admission cost for both
The superb design and dramatic location of Syria’s Krak des Chevaliers, the finest
adults and children. Then there’s the lack of
Crusader castle ever built, puts the Tower of London in the shade historical context: in 2006, UNESCO warned
that it might add the Tower to its “at risk” list,
because of the encroachment of unsightly
modern office buildings on all sides.
Here, little attention has been given to modern
NEED TO KNOW
ideas of commercialization, and the impressive
LOCATION Krak des Chevaliers structure still stands aloof – a bleak, brooding GOING ANYWAY? Avoid the summer peak
is in western Syria, about 563,&: season (Jun–Aug), when the crowds can be
112 miles (180 km) north presence redolent with the ghosts of past battles. stifling. If you can, visit on weekdays and plan
of the capital, Damascus
"MFQQP The castle was expertly positioned atop a rocky to arrive at 9am, when the Tower opens – but
ALTITUDE 2,500 ft -BUBLJB spur that dominates the Homs Gap, the only break nonetheless be prepared to find yourself at the
(750 m) above sea level 4:3*"
,3", %&4 in the long chain of mountains that runs parallel to center of a tourist maelstrom.
DAYTIME $)&7"-*&34
TEMPERATURES -&#"/0/ the coast from southern Turkey into northern Israel.
Jan: 54°F (12°C); Apr: 75°F %BNBTDVT *3"2 It thus dominated access routes between the
(24°C); Jul: 97°F (36°C); *43"&-
Oct: 81°F (27°C) Mediterranean coast and the Syrian interior, as well
+03%"/
as the north-south passage between Damascus
and Aleppo – lending it a strategic importance
“It is the Camelot of your dreams – the castle of that remains as clear today as it did 900 years ago,
every fairy tale.” So said the 20th-century British unlike the Tower of London’s once-imposing
travel writer H. V. Morton of the mighty Krak des Thames-side location.
Chevaliers, which sits majestically high above the The name Krak des Chevaliers, a mixture of
rolling plains of western Syria. This monumental Arabic and French, means “Fortress of the Knights.”
castle, built by Crusaders in the 12th century, has In 1144, the local Crusader lord, Raymond II, Count ABOVE The Tower of London surrounded by the high-rise
often been likened to a ship, its prow nosing out of Tripoli, handed control of what was then a small, office buildings of the city’s financial district, UK
high above a fertile expanse of vineyards, olive simple fortress to the Knights Hospitallers – a
groves, farms, and villages. Think of a medieval religious order that took on military duties in the
castle in Europe and you might picture a showpiece Crusader realms (as did its contemporary, the
fortress, carefully preserved and protected, with Knights Templar). The knights expanded the castle
pristine stonework and neatly mowed lawns. And if and added a 9-ft (3-m) thick encircling outer wall
that fortress is at the heart of a city – as the once- studded with towers to create a virtually PRACTICAL INFORMATION
prominent Tower of London is – it is likely to be impregnable ring of defenses, making it the Holy
dwarfed by glass-and-steel office buildings. The Land’s largest and most sophisticated stronghold. Getting There and Around attractive, Oriental-style guest
cities these strongholds once dominated have Today, you cross the moat and climb a dark, The nearest international airport rooms have a touch of class,
to Krak des Chevaliers is at and many have balconies with
now overpowered them. Yet in Syria, Krak des twisting passage through to the inner courtyard,
Damascus, the Syrian capital, fabulous views of the castle
Chevaliers retains its rough-edged authenticity. which contains a beautiful Gothic cloister and grand from where buses and trains run silhouetted against the sky.
hall, complete with its original vaulting. Explore the north to the city of Homs. From
When to Go
Crusader kitchens and storerooms, the austere here, “microbuses” (vans) run The best seasons to visit Syria
12th-century chapel, the ramparts, and the Grand frequently to the castle. are spring (Mar–May) and fall
Master’s apartments in the highest tower, which Where to Eat (Sep–Nov), when you’ll find the
have elegant Gothic windows offering commanding The popular Al-Kalaa restaurant surrounding hills carpeted with
(tel. +963 31 740 493) stands
views. You’re likely to have the castle all to yourself. wildflowers and lush vegetation.
on the next hilltop along from
Krak des Chevaliers was eventually taken in Krak des Chevaliers. It’s a simple Summer temperatures are
1271 by the Mamluk Sultan Baybars. Around this place serving standard Syrian scorching and winters can be
time, Prince Edward of England was in the Holy cuisine, including salads and chilly, with rain and often snow.
Land as part of the Ninth Crusade and visited the grilled-meat kebabs, and has Budget per Day for Two
castle. He returned home in 1272 and, as King spectacular views of the castle. You could get by on as little
as US$60–75, though US$150 is
Edward I, set about conquering Wales: the castles Where to Stay
Within walking distance of the more realistic.
he built at Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Harlech, and
castle is the fine Al-Wadi Hotel Website
elsewhere – with their concentric rings of defenses
(www.alwadihotel.com). Its www.syriatourism.org
ABOVE Terrain around Krak des Chevaliers, Syria – were all modeled on the Syrian original.

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